Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel PSI Gage which to buy and Permanent mechanical options?

[jmos4]

Hi,



May need to buy a new fuel PSI gage, currently have a Westech 0-30 psi that does not seem to work, did a quick check with an automotive oil PSI gage and not even close, anyhow should I go with another Westech or AutoMeter?



Is the AutoMeter worth the extra cost? (my other gages are all AutoMeter)



Also does anyone make or know of a mechanical gage that you could leave on the fuel canister so if any doubts on the electrical you could get a quick sanity check without having to take a wrench to it?



I have seen the small 1. 5” 1-15 psi gages, but would like one that went up to a min of 20 PSI or even 30PSI as I am shortly installing a mechanical Lift pump so I think the PSI may get closer to 20 with higher rpm’s



Thanks,

 

[JR]

Autometer would probably be better gauge than your current westach. I prefer the mechanical gauges no senders to go bad down the road. Whichever you choose make sure you have a snubber in line or install a needle valve and just barely crack it open until the gauge starts to read pressure. If you dont have one or the other the pressure spikes from the vp will make short work of your gauge. Need something to buffer the hammer effect.

 

[JMetzger]

I have had an Auto Meter mechanical on my 02 since 03 & I asked Auto Meter when I installed it & they said I would not need a snubber or needle valve & knock on wood have never had any problems with it at all. I have it attached on the VP 44 & have 99,893 miles on it.

 

[jeepit]

Get 30lb guage for sure.

 

[RonaldLarson]

My Westach guage has been operating for 12 years. I installed the sending unit on a grease gun rubber extension to negate the vibration effects. This is neccesary, in my opinion. Definitely go with a 30 pound guage.

 

[hsmith]

Snubbers are not needed on the sysems with electrical lift pumps. 2nd gen 12 valveers a different story. I run 30 psi. on mine and without a snubber the needle would fly out the window, or in my face. :-laf

 

[JR]

Its not the lift pumps thats hard on the gauge, its the pulses from the vp.

 

[hsmith]

Hmmm, ok. Guess that where the tap is would get pulses from the VP.

 

[RonaldLarson]

The reason for remotely mounting the pickup sender is engine vibration. The Cummins will literally shake the sender, or any mechanical guage to death in a short time.

 

[tripl-e]

VP pulses?

Hmmm, ok. Guess that where the tap is would get pulses from the VP.

Interesting..... I remote mounted the sender for my ISSPRO FP gauge with a snubber just like Geno's recommended. It made perfect sense to isolate the sender from engine vibration and pump pressure feedback. Now I'm beginning to wonder, does this 'hammer effect' have anything to do with the notoriously short service life of the OEM Carter lift pump?

 

[JR]

I believe that was one of the reasons Dodge switched to an in tank lift pump. However, I know of several people who have run the factory replacement pumps built by AirDog that are designed to bolt on in place of the oem carter and have had good results with them.

 

[Hitec.Redneck]

I replaced my old gauge and isolator last year and ended up with both a mechanical gauge under the hood and an Isspro inside the truck. Picked up this mechanical gauge at a local Hot Rod shop in Houston for @ 15$, added a T to the input side of the isolator. No more guessing if the gauge inside is accurate, so far they are both still reading identical.

 

[bboxall]

I used to use a Westach and had nothing but trouble with the sending units. Upon the recommendation of an extremely knowledgeable individual I changed my Westach out for an Isspro mechanical and it has been perfect. I also installed an oil filled Holley gauge as a sanity check because of the wild and crazy readings I was getting with the Westach. If you install a mechanical gauge underhood like my Holley I recommend a 1/4 turn gauge isolation valve like the one shown here:

 

[jmos4]

That is what I am looking for, does anyone have a PN for the gage/Isolator as all I seem to come across are 15psi gages, do they have any temperature issues as I am in MI so we get pretty cold

I have been running blind for a few weeks now, just replaced the lift pump with a stock carter, got a Fuel Boss mechanical system I should be installing next weekend and like you said want a sanity check as don't trust the electrical thing all the dam time I spent worrying and wondering on my Westach gage I want something I can confirm vs. hoping all is well, as my luck is not that good


Thanks,

 

[RonaldLarson]

Just dial up genosgarage.com and order the things. Be sure NOt to mount the sender on the fuel filter canister. Use a grease gun hose long enough to reach the wire harness on the firewwall, and zip tie it ti the harness.

 

[JR]

Just my opinion, install a needle valve off the canister, get some fuel rated plastic tubing (air brake line works just fine) and run a mechanical gauge. Then start the truck and have someone just crack the needle valve until the fuel pressure starts to SLOWLY register. I know some people on here will disagree,all I can do is share my experiences. I know some old timers who have been running this system on their trucks since new and never had any issues. Ive had mechanical on my 00 and now my 98. 5 with no problems either. No senders to have to ever worry about. Mechanical gauges are more reliable and a fraction of the cost. Yes this means there will be fuel in the cab and some are not comfortable with that either. If you run the appropriate fuel line, make sure nothing can ever vibrate on it or cut it over time, it will last a long long time. Just my opinion

 

[bboxall]

Just my opinion, install a needle valve off the canister, get some fuel rated plastic tubing (air brake line works just fine) and run a mechanical gauge. Then start the truck and have someone just crack the needle valve until the fuel pressure starts to SLOWLY register. I know some people on here will disagree,all I can do is share my experiences. I know some old timers who have been running this system on their trucks since new and never had any issues. Ive had mechanical on my 00 and now my 98. 5 with no problems either. No senders to have to ever worry about. Mechanical gauges are more reliable and a fraction of the cost. Yes this means there will be fuel in the cab and some are not comfortable with that either. If you run the appropriate fuel line, make sure nothing can ever vibrate on it or cut it over time, it will last a long long time. Just my opinion

I agree 110%! I recommend using baby oil or mineral oil instead of the gauge kit's recommendation for antifreeze on the gauge side of the isolator.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

My Westach guage has been operating for 12 years. I installed the sending unit on a grease gun rubber extension to negate the vibration effects. This is neccesary, in my opinion. Definitely go with a 30 pound guage.

YUP - have had the Westach setup in my '02 truck since new - no problems!



I mounted my sender as seen below, and also added a Hobbs pressure sensing switch to trigger an alarm in case PSI drops, and I don't happen to notice it...



-

-

 

[NIsaacs]

Hi Gary, welcome back, it's about time you come back here and help us out!!



Nick

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Hi Gary, welcome back, it's about time you come back here and help us out!!



Nick

Thanks Nick - yeah been away for a bit, getting involved in one of my other interests all over again:



-

-