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Fuel Pump Adjustments

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strange volt meter needle antics...

help with brake job

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this si just a note to back up what Power Wagon said about trans linkage. the K-D cable is designed to work in tandem with the throttle linkage. [as in TOGETHER]. when you move the throttle you make the engine make more power and the trans must now compensate in order to shift properly or else the shift timing will be slow resulting in burned clutch packs and/or bands. when you move the K-D cable it applys more line pressure to ingage the servo's or clutch packs faster. it doesn't affect the programed shift points, the governor does that. by increasing the line pressure you just over-ride the governor to delay the shift. at a predetermand[spelling?] the governor over-rides the line pressure and it forces it to shift. if you want harder shifts, adjust the line pressure to 1. 250" [at valvebody] and set your K-D linkage properly.

And don't use a shift kit in a torque-flite, it increases internal pressures way too high and can distroy your transmission. go to someone that knows how to set one up the right way and you will be very happy and all you will ever have to do is change the fluid and filter.

The torque-flite does not know horsepower. if it is set up the right way it will out live the truck and shift better than any manual. the whole trick is to keep it cool and clean. one more thing before i run out of steam, when you have it serviced replace two quarts of transmission fluid with 30wt engine oil. you'll be happy and so will your transmission.

plus, before you pull out of your driveway in the morning, put it in neutral for about 30 seconds and see what happens.

i seem to be talking about 727's a lot lately



just an old drag racer blowin' off steam



have fun dave
 
Re: New Install ???

Originally posted by 84 crewcab

Power Wagon, I appreciate your wisdom and the desire to help those of us along that are new to this arena. I recently purchased a '91 W250 donor truck with the Cummins engine. I plan to put it into an '84 crew cab dually.



My questions relate to two changes I plan to make in the original layout. The first is that I plan to add an intercooler. From my knowledge of thermodynamics, boost is lost as the hot boosted air cools and contracts in the intercooler. This results in a loss of air delivery pressure, but technically the same amount of oxygen. My question is whether the cooler air charge is worth more than the loss in pressure?



The other idea I have is to change turbo housings to increase the boost while reducing the rpm required to create the boost. My question here is do you need to mess with the diaphragm to change the rate of fuel delivery to match the change in the rate of air delivery? I thought that maybe the diaphragm would counter this as it deals with the pressure anyway. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.



If it is any consolation, I do help many others on the Moparchat racing pages. I just don't know much about the Cummins diesel engine yet.



Hi... I'm on the Moparchat forum too... but post very rarely, as 65Power Wagon.



As to whether an intercooler is "worth it". Well... the engineering was worked out long ago, and they use them extensively... Does it answer your question?



Actually, if you only wanted to use 120-160 HP from a 6BT, it would work fine without an intercooler, as the oxygen needs are not that great, and there's no problem with EGT.



Turbocharging is a double edged sword... Boost puts in more air, but compressing air dramatically raises it's temperature. Even if an intercooler had a slight loss of airflow over none, at high boost pressures, the 100-300 degree drop in intake air temp is more than enough to make it worthwhile. You might get an engineer to do the mathematical analysis of how much more dense air is at the lower temperatures vs the small flow loss due to restriction, and plot a graph to show how much gain there is.



I believe in the 1st gen trucks, the intercooler was for emissions purposes... not to reduce smoke, but to reduce combustion chamber temperature to reduce oxides of nitrogen or NOx. However, since it's there, we can put it to good use for putting more oxygen in to prevent smoke and keep the EGT down for higher horsepower engines.
 
To answer J DeMaio's question

When I did the 12 cm2 swap, I found the downpipe was touching the firewall rubber. I had an exhaust shop cut the pipe for me at the top so it no longer touches.
 
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