So how many BOMB without gauges? Most will agree it’s a no-no. With fueling boxes turning up the pressure its stands to reason you should keep an eye on it. Also for duration box guys you will want to know if pressures are dropping too low.
Just the other day I made a WOT run on a box and recorded over 27,900 psi. which has until now gone un-monitored- yikes!
For me I want to see 26,000 as a comfort zone and never go past 27,000 on a pressure box.
On the other hand I recorded over 22,000 psi on a WOT run with the box turned off so for duration box owners I would think it should be a concern to see pressures drop below what the factory intended at those throttle and RPM settings, time to stack then.
I mentioned in another thread how its possible to use a SPA dual gauge as a fuel rail pressure gauge using the OEM transducer without taping into the fuel system and got a bunch of PM’s on how it works and how to do it so thought I would start a thread for all interested to chime in.
For newer members not familiar with this kind of gauge you can learn more here and they look like this:
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First I have to thank dan. poitras for posting the OEM transducer specs from his Cummins wiring diagram which is:
The OEM transducer is fed by a 5v supply so its output is limited to 29,367 psi.
I contacted engineers at SPA Design in the UK (not www.spatechnique.com) that is distributor here in the US to find out what their gauges impedance is and learned they use an internal 100K ohm pull down resistor. I was concerned if this was not high enough so I measured the transducers output voltage with my DVOM at idle and various throttle settings all the way to WOT.
At each of the various throttle settings I introduced a 100K ohm resister and noted no change in the transducers output voltage confirming the SPA’s microprocessor type gauge would not skew the voltage signal being sent to the ECM.
In working with the folks at SPA I found it was possible to configure the gauge settings to calibrate it to the OEM transducer. For my testing I used a temperature channel but you can also use a pressure or boost channel to read rail pressure.
SPA assured me that while transducer manufactures may list “in print” a spec range such as above that they typically will operate at double their intended range and that the printed range is simply a guaranteed accuracy range. I don’t know about everyone else but all I care about is reading another 1,000 psi. still well under the 5v supply.
All this has SPA contemplating building a one off “custom gauge” if there is enough interest.
For those interested in one just post here and we will use this thread to gauge interest, from there I will contact TDR staff and possibly set something up.
I should hear from SPA this week on that possibility and its cost.
In the mean time I would like to address current SPA owners who would like to “convert” one of their gauges they already have.
Keep in mind the “custom gauge" would be a DG216 Boost / Fuel Pressure dual gauge with only its face plate changed to read Rail Pressure / Lift Pressure because that’s the only change needed for a real nice look.
If you are creative enough and your gauge is out of warranty you could bomb it by pulling it apart and making a custom face plate on your PC or have a print shop do it.
Ok. . here are the settings to do this with the Boost, temp, or pressure channel of a SPA dual gauge:
You will need your manual, if you can’t find it a copy can be downloaded
here
In the “Special Menu Section” of the Manual- the oFF and SPn are incremented in 0. 01V (10mV) steps.
Set the oFF to 0. 50V which equals 0 psi on the OEM transducer, set the SPn to 4. 0V which equals 26,107 psi and then FSC to 261 representing full scale, set dEC to 1 and it should be spot on. It does not really matter if the span and full scale figures are not at the very end of the range. As long as it has two known points that’s all that matters.
Because the SPA’s have only 4 digits you won’t be able read 1 lb. increments, only 10 lb. increments so 26,107 lbs. will be shown as 26. 10
Since you can’t program in the last 7 lbs your gauge will be in error by 7 lbs under or 0. 027%
If you want your led warning lamp to go off at 27,000 psi then set it for 26. 99 and the warning led will flash at a true 26,997 psi.
My tests were done with a VAC3. 1 and a Ramifier (not stacked). I wanted to also do a Quad box but got passed over again on the beta tests
If you are using another box you will need to make sure the box is not skewing the transducer signal all the way back at the transducer or your gauge will also be fooled.
To do this- measure the voltage on the center pin of the transducer while at WOT and insure it will go to at least 4. 0v with your box on. This requires a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) with at least 100K ohms impedance, most are 10M. Place it inside the truck and just run your Leeds under the hood and drivers wiper arm. I grounded my DVOM under the dash.
Obviously anyone with no mods that tap the fuel pressure transducer circuit don’t need to do this.
Once you establish your box is not pulling that signal down you simply hook the SPA’s “sensor signal” wire to the center wire on the transducer, be sure to do it right at the transducer.
Channel one (top gauge) is pin #9 and Channel 2 (bottom gauge) is pin #3 on the SPA’s connector. You will find the location of those in the manual. The other 2 wires associated with that channel are left unused. My truck is an 03 and I don’t suspect they changed the transducer or connecter on newer trucks but you can double check. The wire to tap should have about 1. 36v at idle. Just use a “T” tap- does it void your warranty? That’s a question for “your” dealer.
This will work with a boost, pressure or temperature channel. The high level alarm on a boost and temp channel work great for a high warning led but if you use a pressure channel those only have a low pressure warning this is why a Boost / Fuel Pressure gauge is the best choice because it will allow you to set a “Rail” high level led alarm while the “Lift” channel would get a low level led alarm.
Now if all you have is a pressure channel to use and you want to also have a high warning led that can be accomplished using an external led, the gauges external alarm and a relay. I have that diagram in my head at the moment and will post it if someone needs it.
For duration box owners a low level led alarm for the rail be it internal or external won't work because these trucks idle at 5K psi and the pressure goes up from there so your alarm would be on under part throttle use unless you got creative and set up a relay to enable the alarm circuit only under WOT conditions. Probably more simple to glance at the gauge @ WOT and high RPM's.
Lastly take note of the viewing angle in the manual. I have found this to be very criticle (especially at night) for a nice crisp display. I have one in the SRT-10 A Pillar and is marginal as it points directly at my eye, I plan to add 2 more SPA's and move them all to an overhead pod, the pod is higher but the face of the gauge should be pointing below eye level making a nice improvement.
Just the other day I made a WOT run on a box and recorded over 27,900 psi. which has until now gone un-monitored- yikes!

For me I want to see 26,000 as a comfort zone and never go past 27,000 on a pressure box.
On the other hand I recorded over 22,000 psi on a WOT run with the box turned off so for duration box owners I would think it should be a concern to see pressures drop below what the factory intended at those throttle and RPM settings, time to stack then.
I mentioned in another thread how its possible to use a SPA dual gauge as a fuel rail pressure gauge using the OEM transducer without taping into the fuel system and got a bunch of PM’s on how it works and how to do it so thought I would start a thread for all interested to chime in.
For newer members not familiar with this kind of gauge you can learn more here and they look like this:

First I have to thank dan. poitras for posting the OEM transducer specs from his Cummins wiring diagram which is:
- 0 psi = . 50 voltage return (VDC)
- 5801 psi = 1. 39 volts
- 10153 psi = 2. 06 volts
- 14504 psi = 2. 72 volts
- 20305 psi = 3. 61 volts
- 26107 psi = 4. 50 volts
The OEM transducer is fed by a 5v supply so its output is limited to 29,367 psi.
I contacted engineers at SPA Design in the UK (not www.spatechnique.com) that is distributor here in the US to find out what their gauges impedance is and learned they use an internal 100K ohm pull down resistor. I was concerned if this was not high enough so I measured the transducers output voltage with my DVOM at idle and various throttle settings all the way to WOT.
At each of the various throttle settings I introduced a 100K ohm resister and noted no change in the transducers output voltage confirming the SPA’s microprocessor type gauge would not skew the voltage signal being sent to the ECM.
In working with the folks at SPA I found it was possible to configure the gauge settings to calibrate it to the OEM transducer. For my testing I used a temperature channel but you can also use a pressure or boost channel to read rail pressure.
SPA assured me that while transducer manufactures may list “in print” a spec range such as above that they typically will operate at double their intended range and that the printed range is simply a guaranteed accuracy range. I don’t know about everyone else but all I care about is reading another 1,000 psi. still well under the 5v supply.
All this has SPA contemplating building a one off “custom gauge” if there is enough interest.
For those interested in one just post here and we will use this thread to gauge interest, from there I will contact TDR staff and possibly set something up.
I should hear from SPA this week on that possibility and its cost.
In the mean time I would like to address current SPA owners who would like to “convert” one of their gauges they already have.
Keep in mind the “custom gauge" would be a DG216 Boost / Fuel Pressure dual gauge with only its face plate changed to read Rail Pressure / Lift Pressure because that’s the only change needed for a real nice look.
If you are creative enough and your gauge is out of warranty you could bomb it by pulling it apart and making a custom face plate on your PC or have a print shop do it.
Ok. . here are the settings to do this with the Boost, temp, or pressure channel of a SPA dual gauge:
You will need your manual, if you can’t find it a copy can be downloaded
here
In the “Special Menu Section” of the Manual- the oFF and SPn are incremented in 0. 01V (10mV) steps.
Set the oFF to 0. 50V which equals 0 psi on the OEM transducer, set the SPn to 4. 0V which equals 26,107 psi and then FSC to 261 representing full scale, set dEC to 1 and it should be spot on. It does not really matter if the span and full scale figures are not at the very end of the range. As long as it has two known points that’s all that matters.
Because the SPA’s have only 4 digits you won’t be able read 1 lb. increments, only 10 lb. increments so 26,107 lbs. will be shown as 26. 10
Since you can’t program in the last 7 lbs your gauge will be in error by 7 lbs under or 0. 027%

If you want your led warning lamp to go off at 27,000 psi then set it for 26. 99 and the warning led will flash at a true 26,997 psi.
My tests were done with a VAC3. 1 and a Ramifier (not stacked). I wanted to also do a Quad box but got passed over again on the beta tests

If you are using another box you will need to make sure the box is not skewing the transducer signal all the way back at the transducer or your gauge will also be fooled.
To do this- measure the voltage on the center pin of the transducer while at WOT and insure it will go to at least 4. 0v with your box on. This requires a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) with at least 100K ohms impedance, most are 10M. Place it inside the truck and just run your Leeds under the hood and drivers wiper arm. I grounded my DVOM under the dash.
Obviously anyone with no mods that tap the fuel pressure transducer circuit don’t need to do this.
Once you establish your box is not pulling that signal down you simply hook the SPA’s “sensor signal” wire to the center wire on the transducer, be sure to do it right at the transducer.
Channel one (top gauge) is pin #9 and Channel 2 (bottom gauge) is pin #3 on the SPA’s connector. You will find the location of those in the manual. The other 2 wires associated with that channel are left unused. My truck is an 03 and I don’t suspect they changed the transducer or connecter on newer trucks but you can double check. The wire to tap should have about 1. 36v at idle. Just use a “T” tap- does it void your warranty? That’s a question for “your” dealer.
This will work with a boost, pressure or temperature channel. The high level alarm on a boost and temp channel work great for a high warning led but if you use a pressure channel those only have a low pressure warning this is why a Boost / Fuel Pressure gauge is the best choice because it will allow you to set a “Rail” high level led alarm while the “Lift” channel would get a low level led alarm.
Now if all you have is a pressure channel to use and you want to also have a high warning led that can be accomplished using an external led, the gauges external alarm and a relay. I have that diagram in my head at the moment and will post it if someone needs it.
For duration box owners a low level led alarm for the rail be it internal or external won't work because these trucks idle at 5K psi and the pressure goes up from there so your alarm would be on under part throttle use unless you got creative and set up a relay to enable the alarm circuit only under WOT conditions. Probably more simple to glance at the gauge @ WOT and high RPM's.
Lastly take note of the viewing angle in the manual. I have found this to be very criticle (especially at night) for a nice crisp display. I have one in the SRT-10 A Pillar and is marginal as it points directly at my eye, I plan to add 2 more SPA's and move them all to an overhead pod, the pod is higher but the face of the gauge should be pointing below eye level making a nice improvement.
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