Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel return line

[Teacher]

Anyone out there ever replaced a fuel return line? I think mine is leaking. I just returned from a long trip and I've been smelling diesel. My truck doesn't want to start right away (no prime) in the morning. . This happens only when it sits overnight. After starting, it is ok for the rest of the day. I'm told there are two rubber lines.

How does one replace the line(s)? Where is the line? Is there a picture of where to look? I know it is not an easy job? Any suggestions? I enquired at Dodge and they said it would cost over $300. 00 to repair!!!

 

[Joe G.]

The first thing to do is get a hose replacement kit with the proper hoses from Larry Buck at:

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm



He is in Tacoma so it's not far from you.



The job can be a bear. Best to remove things in the way. Starter and fuel filter. Front driveshaft if you have a 4X4. Then remove the two nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the booster. That will allow you to lean the master cylinder toward the fender. The lines are then visable. If you have the original crimp on clamps you will have to cut them off.

 

[CTD12V]

Teacher:



In case you didn't see it, read WBusa's post "Fuel Leak Fixed-Lessons Learned". He did a great job of explaining the proceedure.



CTD12V

 

[Teacher]

CTD,

Thanks for your reply. Please tell me how to get to WBusa's post. I truly appreciate it.

Joe D,

Thank you also for your help. TDR is really fortunate to have you. You are a gem. I will contact Larry B. tomorrow.

 

[wcjp]

When you call LarryB don't forget to order the Starter Contact upgrade. I've told 3 different CTD owners about upgrading their starter contacts. None listened. Two starters had to be replaced. The third was able to shut it off in time and replace the contacts.



A cordless dremel works great at removing the original clamp that's crimped. Only cut what you intend to cut. I didn't remove the Master Cylinder but it probably would've made the job easier. Also, I had to buy the fuel preheater kit and the biggest problem was the fuel preheater to lift pump soft line.



http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/pre-filt_clean.htm

 

[Gene Arnold]

I did my lines on Thursday of this week. I tried to install the lines from Larry B but I couldn't make them work. One line was too small and I could not get the other to quit leaking. What a frustrating couple of wasted hours! I will contact Larry B to see if it is just me or if I got the wrong stuff. Incidentally, I got really quick service on the order and I like the looks of the lines--if only they had worked.



So--after two-and-one-half horrid hours of fruitless toil, a couple of bloody hand lacerations, and some really big bruises, I installed some standard lines. Early in the afternoon I was feeling pretty smug because I had switched the lines out without removing anything other than the lines. If the marine lines would have worked the total time would have been less than two hours, including getting everything ready (ramps, tools, lights, etc). My job took five hours, which included some recovery time after some of the more severe stretches and maneuvering (at seventy it takes me longer now to do just about everything). I should mention that I did have to work by feel on some of the project. The truck starts and doesn't leak but I haven't driven it anywhere yet. I'll find out if it is cured in a few minutes when I run some errands. Wish me well!



WBusa's post referenced above is good. I tried to copy the link here but don't know how. Just search for posts by WBusa and you'll find it.



Gene

 

[Crowhurst]

This is the link:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127562

Nick.

 

[SDrake]

I'm wondering if you didn't put the big hose on the little line hence the problem with the leak and try to put the little hose on the big line, -- no way.



Glad you got going but it was no fun. I did all this a few years ago before it was common knowledge that the hard to start problem is the fuel return line going bad but not necesarrily leaking fuel yet. Took the starter out, dremeled the original clamps and put regular fuel hose. The NAPA fuel hose lasted a couple of years and I did it again. Two more years and I found out about marine hose (Larry B's is marine hose I think) I have that on now and feel sure it is not going to fail so quickly.



Said all that to say this. Get a good set of marine hose of the right size and have it ready for this same situation which will probably come up sooner than you would like. If you sell the truck do the next owner a favor and show him what the hoses are for so they won't have to figure out this stupid and frustrating problem. The dealers seem to never know about it and do all sorts of things before they finaly fix the problem from what I have heard. What a bummer for an otherwise trouble free truck, a stupid fuel hose that is not designed to last and has a wierd failure symptoms that doesn't seem to be related to a air leak in a fuel return line until you learn by hard experience or get lucky enough to be on TDR and doing some casual reading.

 

[Teacher]

You guys are great! Really appreciate all the replies. Will wait on Larry B's lines until I feel sure they will fit.

 

[Gene Arnold]

I'm wondering if you didn't put the big hose on the little line hence the problem with the leak and try to put the little hose on the big line, -- no way.

After doing a few of the dumb things I've done recently, anything is possible. I just checked the old lines that I removed and they were both 3/8 inch. It could be that the Cummins guy that replaced them five years ago erred in installing the wrong size. You've got my curiosity tweaked now and I'll measure the steel lines tomorrow.



I ran all over town yesterday and everything worked and no leaks so at least that was an improvement.



Gene

 

[SDrake]

Please don't shame me into confessing some of the dumb things I have done.