Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) fuel return line

[cclemons]

If I let my truck sit for about a day I have to use the primer on the lift pump to get truck to start. Found a wet spot on fuel line so I am thinking leak in the return line. ???How is the best way to get to this line to change it. Cant even see the whole line. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks





96 with auto trans.

 

[cclemons]

fuel line

Forgot to mention that it is worse if the tank is less than half full or if the truck is left siitting with the front higher than the rear of the truck. thanks

 

[Joe G.]

While you are at it you might as well change the supply hose too. This is NOT an easy job.



Remove the two nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. That will allow you to lean the master cylinder toward the fender. Remove the fuel filter. That will give you better access from the top. If you have long arms and patience you can do the job from there. It is easier if you remove the starter also. That can be tough if the starter has not been removed before. The bolts that hold it on are very tight. The upper one is hard to get to. A 10mm box end wrench is needed. If the top bolt is really tight you may have to jack up the wrench with a bottle jack.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I think part of the problem is that Cummins tucked the line close to the engine where it gets hot and has bends in it. If you don't have 4 wheel antilock brakes, it is easier to get your hands in there. The hose clamps have 6 mm or 7 mm heads. The steel line terminates just behind the pump and you should be able to get on the clamp. Pull the hose off. Undo the quick disconnect between the stub steel line at the bellhousing and the line going to the tank. Then remove the hose and steel stub line, put on a new hose, etc.



If the above seems virtually impossible, here is a short cut: buy a hose banjo to go under the overflow valve on the pump. Push the stock steel line down, out of the way. Run a hose any convenient and safe way from the banjo to the bellhousing area, attach it to the stub steel line. It's way easier if you remove the stub at the quick disconnect first so you aren't trying to hold the stub still while pushing a hose onto it.