Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) fuel return / supply lines !!!

[shendren]

would really like to post here that i went out and did it myself. i took it to the dealer here in scottsburg, indiana. $90. 80... . 1. 5hrs.



the old ones were in bad shape. i'm glad it's done.



scott.

 

[BBenz]

I also must admit defeat. I replaced the contacts in my starter and noticed fuel on the side of the engine and transmission so I suspected the rubber fuel lines.



I was so excited when I got the fuel line kit and proceeded to take off the fuel filter, relays and master cyclinder to gain better access. While I could get to the clamps on top I never figured out how in blue blazes I was going to get to the ones on the bottom without having 40 inch, multi jointed arms.



So I swallowed my pride knowing that I had met my match and put it back together. :{ Instead of going to the local dealer though, I will be taking it to the local Cummins service center because I have not had good luck with the former in the past...

 

[kaffine krazed]

To get the bottom clamps you can pull the lines out of the bracket on the trans and then pull them back and down. It's not fun putting the back in the brackets but it's easier than trying to reach them from the top.



If you think that fuel line is had to get try the fuel lines on a Detroit 60 in a Century class Freightliner.

 

[BBenz]

Thanks for the reply. I also heard that there are quick disconnects somewhere on the lines that I can undo. Where exactly are those and how do they work - are they like an airhose quick disconnect? Maybe I will give the fuel line thing one last try as I really hate to spend money on things that I should be able to do myself!

 

[kaffine krazed]

They are by the transmission on the frame rail they. There are two plastic tabs on them that have to be squezed together.

 

[Howard Durand]

I have replaced both of the rubber lines on mine and found the easiest way to get to all of the fittings was to remove the starter and disconnect the front drive line at the transfer case. This allows good access to the fittings and you can see everything quite well.

The starter is easy to remove and, if you haven't changed out the starter contacts, it would be a good time to check them.

 

[surfbeetle]

does anyone know what size, diameter and lenght the fuel hoses are? I changed mine about four years ago, now I must do it again and can't remember the size.

thanks

 

[shendren]

larry b sells the kit. $20 or so. much easier to order from him!!

 

[Andy Redmond]

supply 3/8", assure it meets Spec 30R7 (rated fuel line)

return 5/16" """"



By 24 " of each in case of a cutting error!





I haven't any repeats with any replacements of the above, but that "slick silicone marine" hose the guys rant about is likely a permanent fix as well.



Good luck, Andy

 

[surfbeetle]

Thanks for the info, I am going to run down to napa and get some more line. One tool I used last time to replace the line was a 12 inch long flexible socket extension to loosen and tighten the clamps. The ratchet was one of those squeeze trigger things that I picked up off of a late night TV ad. Its a cheap quality tool but it did the job.

 

[LHartman]

By doing this, do you get rid of the quick disconnects and just hose clamp the line back on? I'm assuming this is the way everyone is taking care of this. I haven't even looked at my lines so I don't even know what to expect, but they're 5 years old and probably due.

 

[kaffine krazed]

You could get rid of the quick disconnect buy you'll need more line. However I haven't seen the quick disconnect of the braided line between the frame and trans leak. I just replace the short line between the engine and the braided flex line that bolts to the top of the trans. I'm still trying to figure out why they didn't continue with the braided to the engine.

 

[RON'S RAM]

Changing the lines is a little time consuming, but not that hard of a job. I removed the starter, and fuel filter. Could see the lines easily with both of those out of the way. Did some from under the truck, and some from the engine compartment. It wasn't a fun job, but I wouldn't pay the dealer if it has to be done again. Good luck. Ron

 

[surfbeetle]

I did it last Thursday evening. It took less than two hours, including changing the fuel filter. I used a 14 inch long flexible socket extension and a squeeze trigger type rachet. This was my second time doing this, did it once four years ago and the hardest part then was removing the hose clamps that chrysler used, I replaced them with standard clamps that use 1/4 inch nuts on them rather then 9/32 that chrylser had. The 1/4 inch nut meant that this time when I used my flexible extension, I did not have to worry about a socket falling off of the extension, it went straight onto the clamp. It was alot easier

Thanks

 

[BBenz]

Well... all these responses inspired me to relook at the situation this weekend and I am happy to report that my truck is now sporting new marine fuel lines (from LarryB) along with a Geno's fuel filter relocation kit! Oo.



I did almost all of the work from underneath. I removed the starter and fuel filter, disconnected the lines from the spring clips at the bell housing and undid the quick disconnects. The only thing that I did from up top was to put the new return hose and clamp onto the metal line. Hopefully, these new lines will last forever as I don't want to do this again! The return line was very cracked and brittle when I took it out.



My better half kept telling me to take it to a garage so I did - her car stayed outside until the job was completed! When I explained to her that the money I saved by doing the work myself would allow me to get my TST plate I got one of these... Oh well - can't hurt to ask!