Fuel Sender Problem? What if?

[N8LHG]

Folks,

I’m sure everyone is tired of seeing questions relating to the fuel sender problem, but I’m going to dig it up one more time here.

If this fix is not applied, and/or the sending unit is not replaced, will in fact the “empty” be a true empty if you leave it as is? In other words, After about 100 miles, I show 1/4 of a tank. If I keep driving, will the gauge in fact show an accurate empty state, perhaps at the light warning point, showing 1/4 until it does in fact go below that?

Basicly, if I don't fix it, can I trust it to show when I'm really near empty without going dry?

Mark


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Mark Wardell
1996 Dodge 3500, 4x4, Duel, Green and silver.

[This message has been edited by N8LHG (edited 01-25-2001). ]

 

[B.G. Smith]

I don't think you can rely on the sending unit to give any accurate readings if it is incorrect on any. The reasoning is, the sending unit is a variable resistor with a wound coil and a wiper arm moving up and down the coil as fuel is added or taken out. Usually the wire on the wound coil bunches up or is broken/damaged causing the erratic readings. So if it is reading wrong at one position it is not likely to be correct anywhere. bg

 

[gibson]

I would stick with keeping track of your mileage. You get used to that becoming your fuel gauge. Try filling up when you have around 200 (10 gallons left in mine at this point)left. Keeps the truck from sucking the junk in bottom of fuel tank, and if you happen to not get as good mileage due to whatever, you will not be left on the side of the road priming a truck.

 

[mfburns]

I agree with gibson. If the gauge don't work I wouldn't trust it at any level. I have put over 30,000 miles on my truck since the gauge went out. I just reset the trip odometer at each fill up and when I get over 500 miles I start looking for fuel and should still have about 100-200 miles left in the tank for emergencies. I also figure milage after each fillup to ensure my estimates are right.

 

[DieselB59]

You're gonna have to just fill up every 400 miles and just go on that. Once the sender goes bad, it will not give you an accurate reading at any point. So, you can't go on and think that there is a possibility that at the lower range of reading, the sender will read accurately.

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Chris Timochko
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Rhino Linings, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s.
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Project U96 - 1996 3500 2WD racer. A. W. D. Marine Ultra Low Compression, A. W. D. Teflon-coated Pistons, A. W. D. High Lift Camshaft, Ported and Honed Cylinder Head, Intake and Exhaust manifold; A. W. D. HX40 Turbocharger, ATS 3pc Exhaust Manifold, A. W. D. Water Injection, A. W. D. Custom Fabricated Fuel System, Race Spec A. W. D. /BD P7100 Injection Pump, A. W. D. Custom High Flow Fuel Injection Nozzles, BD Auto transmission and Custom TC, Weld Draglites, Goodyear Eagle Drag Slicks, 5" Single Stack Through The Bed, Mag-Hytec on Rear and Transmission.

 

[illflem]

From what I understand the materials in the sender aren't compatible with diesel,sort of like the fuel return hose. Come on Dodge grow up.

Anyone try using a low fuel idiot light,I've seen them in auto parts catalogs for under $15,might be a good way to go.