Fuel sending unit/front U-joint

[Kalaehina]

O. K. members, I have to do the fuel sending unit fix, but I am having alot of problems finding the right part. I was very disappointed with the service I received at one of the Dodge dealers here in Hawaii. It seemed like I asked the parts guy to find the Holy Grail, after alot of ... ... sighs,, hmmms, and umms he finally said " The fuel sending unit for the diesels with no fuel pumps are $367. 00". Ah no fuel pumps? OK, by then he was confusing me, so I just said OK and I'll see him when I get there. Anyway I did not go to that Dodge I went to another one and got a little better service. Anyway, my questions are-What is the exact part am I asking for when I go in for the fuel sending unit? and around what price? And my second U-joint from the transfer case is busted, I was told that the price would be between $600. 00-$800. 00, I assume because it would come with the whole driveshaft assembly, is this correct? I can't replace the U-joint separately? As always, thanks for all the assistance members... .

 

[Joe G.]

There is an old post here somewhere with instructions about how to repair the sending unit. Use the search function and see if you can find it. I did mine several years ago and I don't remember it being that expensive. The diesels with the P7100 pump do not have a fuel pump in the tank like the gassers do. (I dunno about the newer electronic monsters. ) That is what may have confused you from the parts guy's conversation. The contraption that goes is the tank is about the same except that the pump is not there. The part you need is the part with the float and variable resister. What happens is that the feeler arm wears a grove and does not make good contact. I'm sure that I bought that part separate, but it's been a while.



If the carrier bearing in the middle of the rear drive shaft has failed that's not just a ujoint problem. So far mine is ok so I don't know what the price of that fix is. Probably cause a fainting spell.

 

[Alaskaskiff]

FUEL TANK SENDING UNIT is part number 4797738. Call MOPAR4LESS. Should be less than $40. The price they quoted sounds like the one for the entire drop-in assembly for the tank. The sending unit is just the arm/float and the sender.



All the U-joints are separate. They can all be purchased from NAPA or some other parts house. If They are referring to the carrier, you can get a polyurethane one from some places, but I think you options are more limited.

 

[illflem]

On your driveshaft: every u-joint has three parts that can usually be purchased separately. The center part is called the cross or spider, when you buy one it comes with four end caps that contain the needle bearings, this is the part that usually wears out. The caps are held in place by four clips either on the inner or outer part of the cap, once the shaft is removed the old cross can be removed with the help of a press or large vice. The two U shaped parts (hence the name u-joint) are called yokes. Depending on what broke on yours will determine the cost of the repair, one of the yokes is welded or pinned to the shaft, the other one is just splined. I'm sure the dealer will just want to replace the entire section of driveline. In fact I wouldn't trust them to rebuild a u-joint correctly anyways. Since I don't know your mechanical abilities/tools your best bet is to remove the broken section, easy job, and take it to a driveline shop, I'm sure there is at least one in Honolulu. If they have to remove and replace the welded in side it will be more expensive as there is more work involved and the driveline may also need to be rebalanced if welded. The other side is much easier, no way either of the repairs will come close to $600.

 

[Alaskaskiff]

Just cracked the parts manual on the driveshaft. Almost all the parts are listed separately. So you should be able to get individual ones as necessary. I mentioned NAPA because the DC prices were higher by 2x or more for the same u-joint from the SAME manufacturer. I know you also have Honolulu price inflation for certain things, but maybe this will help some.

 

[Kalaehina]

Thanks everyone! Will do with all the suggestions! I'll let everyone know how it turns out. Thanks again!

 

[H_D98]

By the sounds of it you are talking about the second U-joint on the FRONT driveshaft? If so it is part of the cv joint and while you CAN replace just the cross and cups... you have to pull the other u-joint out too, plus it is a very tight and awkward fit... so by the time you factor the labor and blood pressure meds in; it is sometimes cheaper to get the whole cv assembly welded on.



My truck is a '96 too and had mine changed for much less at the local machine shop. (after I ran out of meds )



Best of luck!



Kent Siebern



Angola, IN

 

[Hummin Cummins]

The post i remember for the sending unit says the rivet wears at the point the float pivots. drill out the rivet put in a machine screw with nylon lock nut (stainless?) and snug it up enough to take the slop out and still let the float pivot freely. I had the same problem at the dealer, ordered a sending unit and the got the whole assy. They just took it apart and gave me what i needed... around 54. 00 compared to 350. 00. Wish i would have known about the cheap fix first, but from the sounds of these sending units I'll be back in there in a few years. Grease fittings on these u-joints from the factory must be an expensive option but they would sure be nice.

 

[RedRamer]

Here's the link to fix the sending unit. It's an easy fix, once you get it outa the tank. I also added 2' of rubber hose for the next tank drop. It paid off...

Will cost you 1 - 1" cotter pin or push on lock washer. aloha



http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/index.html

near bottom of page under guages... 2 posts

 

[Kalaehina]

Alright buddies, here's the deal-no engine hoist, just a couple floor jacks, jack stands, sufficient tools and a bunch of 2x4s, and 4x4 pieces of wood. Advice for changing fuel sending unit-Drop the tank or lift the bed? Taking into consideration my resources. Thanks

 

[Alaskaskiff]

I dropped my tank. It was real light (about 4 gallons of fuel left). Tank maybe goes 15 pounds empty. Just be carefull if you go this way not to stress hoses too much. Put something under tank where the sender is to keep it up fairly high. The electrical connection is tough, but a flat bladed screwdriver will help lift the tab to disconnect (I consider that connection to be the hardest part). If you have a lot of fuel in it pulling the bed up might be easier. I have never done it that way, but think someone mentioned to watch in the back so it doesn't pinch back by the bumper. Be careful the bed to frame connection DOES MAKE A BETTER MOUSETRAP!!! Good luck and be safe.

 

[Midnite]

Originally posted by Kalaehina

I was told that the price would be between $600. 00-$800. 00, I assume because it would come with the whole driveshaft assembly, is this correct?

This is because parts from Dodge dealers are gold plated and lined with platinum and fine diamonds. At least that's what the local Dodge dealer told me...





Mike