Fuel Shut Off Problem!

[Joe G.]

It's hid in the wireing and hose mess attached to the side of the rear of the injection pump. The two lower screws that attach the AFC cover also attach the solenoid mounting bracket to the pump. There is a rod with a little clip sticking out the bottom of it. That is what has to lift to turn on the fuel.

 

[illflem]

It is very rare that a shut down solenoid goes bad, it is often replaced needlessly. The problem most often is with wiring or the relay. If the problem is the solenoid it can usually be correct by cleaning it.

 

[HerbW]

Thanks for the advice!

JoeG and Gang,



Thanks for the help!!!! I get in my service manual and never find it as fast or accurate as people that's been there. Have a Great weekend. Herb

 

[Missouri Mule]

TStetson,

Leaking fuel lines usually over night problem (engine has been shut off for a while).



I would concentrate on overflow (return) fuel valve, lift (transfer) pump( bad check valve would let fuel drain back fast) and fuel shut off valve and its related components: relay, connections, wires= broken/loose.



You can have fuel pressure test done to determine if overflow valve or transfer pump are bad.

 

[JCQ]

Fuel Shutoff Solenoid

Cleaning the solenoid is not hard and a whole lot cheaper than a new one.

You just have two bolts in the bottom of the coil and the connection on the linkage to get it apart.

It is spring loaded but not real heavy so you can handle it with your hands easiest enough.

Mine had built up with some good old red mountain dirt and gotten sticky, washed it out with some WD 40 and dried it off and it hasn't quit on me yet. (even though I thought it had due to my ignition switch).

Something else you might try is to push it in with the key off and let it pop back out several times before you take it apart and see if the doesn't free it up.

 

[HerbW]

Leaking fuel

I crawled under my truck and I see diesel fuel dripping from the fuel lines. It's all over the frame, lines and everything else. I'll replace them as soon as I can find diesel rated fuel lines to buy. I see what people say about tightness!! Has anybody put extra long tubing on the fittings so you can reach and inspect at least the lower fitting? Did it work okey? Also while under there it looks like a 1/2" or 5/8" tubing with a ty wrap on it just dangling. Looks like something once was in the tubing. There is a vaccum looking tubing with a black plastic head on it about the same size as the inside hole. Is this a match? What is it for? As usual I can't find it in the Dodge service manual. My no. 8 TST plate is coming from Piers this week if mail is a go again. Thanks for any help. Herb

 

[Joe G.]

Herb,



The original problem was caused by painting the fuel lines at the factory. The first time I did the job I didn't use the correct hoses so they failed. The second and last time I hope, I got diesel rated hoses. That was quite a few miles ago, at least 80K. So don't bother with changing the way things are. Just replace the lines with good diesel lines. That should do it for a long time. A NAPA store should have what you want. That's where I got mine. I asked the Dodge dealer about it and he had them in stock. I didn't like the price so I went shopping. Actually, I asked them "how much do you bandits want for diesel hose for my truck?" They know me in there so they just told me to get a good grip on the stool and they would look it up.

 

[Alaskaskiff]

source for fuel hose

The marine rated hoses will work quite well, although expensive. They have a tough standard because of being able to stand up for in bilge use. I got mine at West Marine. They also differentiate btwn diesel & gas.

 

[TStetson]

Ok got the fuel lines replaced. That's not the problem even though they needed to be replaced. I found out my solenoid is sticking so either today or tomorrow i will take it off and clean it. I also got my power steering leak fixed (hopefully). Another newby question how do i put the new fuel filter in? Thanks guys for your help!!

 

[Joe G.]

Tony,



Did you ever check the overflow valve?



Replacing the fuel filter can be a real job the first time you do it. I remove the two nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the booster and lean it toward the fender to get some room to work. The first thing to do is disconnect the water in fuel (WIF) sensor. You will need a small screw driver for the connector clip. Try not to stick it in your finger. There are all sorts of wrench recommendations but I don't use one. What I do is use a hammer and a big screw driver as a chisel on the rim of the filter and break it loose that way. I would drain some fuel into a jar or some other small container to check for water and reduce the amount of fuel in the filter so the job won't be so messy. Spin the filter off. If you don't lean the master cylinder over you have to remove the filter thru the mess to the front. Make sure that the center gasget is not left on the filter mount. There is a large screw in the center of the filter mount. Make sure it's tight. If not tighten it with an allen wrench. Install the WIF sensor from the old filter in the new filter. Wet the new filter gasket with fuel and install the new center gasket. Then screw on the new filter. Tighten it as tight as you can with your bare hands. Some people fill the filter with clean(?) fuel first but I don't. I want all the fuel to pass thru the filter media so I use the push button on the lift pump to fill it. Loosen the screw on the banjo fitting on the top front of the filter mount and pump fuel until you get fuel with no bubbles. This will take a while and wear out your thumb. Tighten the banjo fitting. Connect the WIF switch connector. It's a good idea to trim the tie wrap ends to reduce the amount of blood sacrificed to the diesel gods.

 

[TStetson]

yes i check the overflow valve. you said about 1/2 inch right. it looked good. so tonight i am going to do the solenoid. thanks for the quick replay joe.

 

[HerbW]

Fuel Filter change!?

Maybe it's cause I'm left handed but I can change my fuel filter pretty quick by standing on a large wooden service box next to the left fender and reaching down while my body is almost parallel to the ground. I first drain the fuel out of the fuel filter thru the tubing, then unhook the wires, then use one of those Sears rubber quick strap that is advertised on T. V. to loosen the filter. Then I just unscrew and remove. I then, just like Joe does, transfer the senser to the new filter and hard hand tighten it on. A ten minute job without any take apart of anything. I couldn't do it this way until I got the box to get high enough to reach down low. Good luck! Herb