Here I am

Fuel shut-off solenoind

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Autometer Tach Installation

Fuel filter relocation

Status
Not open for further replies.
I'm looking for any advise I can get for removing the fuel shut-off solenoid on my 93 VE pump. I'm aware that it's just a plastic plunger and a small spring inside of there, but I can't seem to get a wrench on there to even see what size nut it is. Has anyone opened up this part of the pump who can tell me which size wrench I need to remove it and anything else I need to remove to access it? I'm in the midst of getting rid of the factory keyed "ignition" switch (should really be called a run/start switch) and replacing it with toggles and a push-button starter switch. I assumed that the shut-off solenoid would be a little easier to remove than it is, but you know what they say... When you make assumptions, you make an a.s.s. out of U and MPTIONS.
 
Thanks, good to know. I tried a 15/16" open end but couldn't get it to grab. Maybe I can turn it with a chisel.
I want to remove the plunger from the solenoid because I'm trying to make the engine completely mechanical. I already have a pull cable hooked up for shutting it down.
Just part of my quest to decomputerize the truck and put things on simple/reliable circuits and switches.
 
Well, I had absolutely no luck in getting that thing to budge today. I removed the throttle bracket and even ground off some of the meat on my wrench in order to get a more favorable angle on it but, the way the solenoid is clocked, I just can't get a good grab on it. I hit it with a chisel but it was just cutting into the nut. I'd like to be able to put a socket on it but the AFC hangs over it too closely.
Just had an idea for a removal tool that I will try to make when I go into work Monday (work in a fab shop). Will report back in a couple of days.
 
That didn't work either. I'll have to try something else.
When I finally do get it to open up, am going to have to bleed air out of the pump/high pressure lines?
 
I cut te top portion of the rear mounting plate. That gave me enough room to put a socket on the FSS - it worked great and it has allowed plenty of room for next time I had to replace it.

Bob
 
I had considered doing that too. Still working on making a socket that will just slip on, for now.
What about bleeding the system? Is that necessary after pulling the solenoid?
 
Well, I finally managed to break it loose the other day. Man, the thing was tighter than Richard's hat band! After mutilating two wrenches in an attempt to make something that could not only grab onto the nut, but also move counter-clockwise, I broke down and bought a 15/16" 12-point crow's foot flare wrench which I still had to severely modify.
Engine is now 100% mechanical.
No bleeding of the system was needed.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top