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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel shut off took a puke. Need help

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Delivery Valve Guru's???

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i bought a box of stuff that has a fuel shutdown solenoid in it from a 96. i have a new boot on it. what do you guys think it is worth? is there any way to test it with a 12v power supply? i guess i would need the relay to test it..... i assume it works.



thanks, scott.
 
illflem,

It wouldn't be too hard to have a pull to shut off. All you would have to do is fabricate a bracket below the shut off arm and actuate it from underneath instead of on top, which would reverse the push pull. I also didn't want it to accidently get shut off at the wrong time and that is why I went with the twist and lock cable. It locks very securely.

Scott,

The solenoid is very easy to test. It is a pick and hold solenoid. When the ignition is in the start position, the pick coil is actuated and when the ignition is in the run position, the hold coil is actuated. All you have to do is put 12 volts on the coils and see if the plunger moves. Don't hold it on 12 volts for long on the pick coil because it isn't meant for sustained voltage.
 
Contacts

I had my starter off today to replace my lift pump (it did a lot of ticking). I had a set of starter contacts on hand so I figured I might as well put them in. I got in there and the battery side contact was over half way burned out so I'm glad I did this now and not later. The other side, as usual, was just fine so I did not replace it. This starter has not acted up yet but it's much better to be safe with some VERY cheap PM then sorry later on. My truck is about to roll 90K in a few miles. I think it would be wise for everyone to do this, or have it done, when your mileage is getting up there or if you do a lot of starting. It's so basic and cheap that it's not worth waiting until you melt down.



Mark
 
Mark,

Can you describe the noise that led you to change your lift pump? Did it do it all the time or just under a load? I am chasing a noise that I think could be the lift pump and would appreciate any info you could share.

Thanks,

Bob
 
Bob: The noise I would get was just a light ticking sound. I'm not much good at describing things so I don't know if this will help or not. The only time I could hear it was at low speeds like going through town and such things so I don't' know if it did it at all at higher speeds or not because there is too much other noise.



It didn't usually do it when at an idle and it was also intermittent. For a while my fuel pressure was running a bit too high because I had streached my overflow valve spring beyond . 500 in. to bring the pressure up and this made it tick worse. I finally just replaced the valve some time back and I got a lot less ticking after that but it would still do it some. So far (maybe only 15 miles) it has not made a sound. I took the old pump apart which has nearly 90k on it and found slight wear in the upper part of the cylinder and the piston did have some very slight scoring. The spring tension felt about the same as the new one but the pump just didn't feel quite as smooth so maybe it was hanging slightly and causing it to have a harder time returning.



Mark
 
Bob, the ticking most often comes from a lift pump actuator arm spring that is getting weak. What happens is the arm doesn't fully extend by the time the cam comes around again and slaps rather than maintaining contact at all times. The tick is most evident under load when you're pumping more fuel but hard to hear over engine noise, most folks hear it as a light tick at idle. Best to take care of it soon as the slapping can distort the cam and your repair bill will escalate rapidly.
 
Old Mercedes had cables.

I really like the idea of a cable operated actuator.

I once owned a 1972 Mercedes 220-D that had a 3 position cable. First position was fuel on,2nd position was glow plugs,3rd position was starter. No one could crank it but me. I'm not kidding. :)

Tim
 
My PTO cable is push for start, pull for shutdown. It goes in from the top where the soleniod was. The arm that the soleniod attached to on the pump was flipped over which allows the reverse action.
 
Well she is fixed and is running. I found a place by me that sells the plunger for the starter for about 5 bucks and the contacts about a buck fifty. That is not a bad deal so i bought a few extra and i am going to throw a spare set in the glove box.



Thanks again for the help

Tony Stetson
 
[EVIL THOUGHT] At those prices you could buy a case of each and undercut just about anyone out there currently selling these parts. [/EVIL THOUGHT]



Matt
 
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