Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) fuel shutdown selenoid

[btanner]

I am currently wiring up my truck and the shutdown selenoid has two wires and a ground a high power (triggered from the starter selenoid) and a low power continuous power lead. WE turned on the truck and the selenoid opened about half way and with some help it opened all the way and stayed open. WE were priming the fuel system when the seleniod basically went up in flames and we unplugged everything. SO I guess the question that I have is there a neccessity to have the high amp wire from the starter to the selenoid? Also is there some type of relay that stops the high power end or is there something else that I am missing? There is a possibility that the selenoid might just be bad but it was strange and the selenoid did work after wards when we just hooked it up to the battery. ANy help would be much a ppreciated.



-ben

 

[Joe G.]

First of all, the maximum you should run the starter is 15 seconds. The fuel solenoid is wired thru a relay on a Dodge so that it is not a direct draw off any other circuit. It has a fusable link from the battery to the relay. It IS supposed to be on the pull up circuit while the engine is being cranked by the starter. If you let the starter run for more than 15 seconds without letting it cool for a couple of minutes you run the risk of burning the starter up. You do not have to do much priming of a 12 valve P7100 fuel system. Just use the priming button on the lift pump to get the air out of the system as far as the output side of the fuel filter. Then just use the starter. The P7100 pump will start the engine. I removed all my injector lines and cleaned them up once. When I put them back on I did not prime them at all. In my case the injection pump had fuel in it. I ran my starter for 15 seconds and let it cool. The second time the engine started after about 10 seconds. There was some rock and roll before all the injectors got to work, but it smoothed up just fine. If your P7100 pump is dry it may take a few more cycles to get it to go. If the only problem is air in the injection lines, just run it a while. It will smooth right out.

 

[btanner]

hmmm thanks for the lesson on priming the pump. We got it started last night without the fuel shut off selenoid, but it would kind of be a hassle to have to open the hood everytime I want to shut my truck off. Do you know the size of the fuseable link (wire gauge?) The starter wasn't ran for more than about 5-7 seconds at a time and the pump was completely dry because we changed injectors, gov springs, cam plate, and orifices. It took a little priming but it cranked right up. thanks



-ben

 

[DPinkston]

Ben,

See this post, maybe it will be of some help. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112848. I assume this is for your Chevy conversion. Sounds to me like something was not wired correctly. If you haven't already got one I suggest getting a Haynes manual and studying the electrical schematics.

If your interested, there is a fuel shutoff solenoid on Ebay right now. Item number 7932315679.

Danny



Danny

 

[btanner]

thanks for the other thread guess it does need a relay in there that's probably why it burned up. Also thanks for the link to the ebay auction see if I can save a little money on that thing. Yeah have the manual but it didn't say anything about a relay in the circuit so I didn't put one in there. Well guess now I know. Appreciate it.



ben

 

[RSergeant]

I had the same problem with mine and I still havent figured out why.