Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Shutoff extremely difficult to operate

[Loghead]

'97, 4x4, AT



I've had an unreliable Fuel Shutoff Solenoid for quite some time.

At first - and for quite a while - I simply needed to apply light finger pressure to raise the solenoid/valve lever and open the valve. Turning off the igntion would close the valve.



Now - and this has been getting progressively worse - I have to pull up the solenoid/valve lever with a box end wrench, lifting with quite a bit of force.

I'd have addressed the problem long ago, but with the hefty price tag of a new solenoid, it seemed hard to justify spending that sort of money to fix what was (then) a minor inconvenience in a truck I actually use infrequently - and more infrequently as time goes on. The engine runs fine once I actually have the valve open. To close the valve, I have to tap the end of the lever with the handle end of a hammer. Light repeated taps will close the valve.



I'm now aware that I can install a manual shutoff, and that's probably what I'll do, but I'm concerned primarily with how much force I'm having to apply to operate the valve.



Is it possible that the infrequent use has allowed corrosion to nearly seize the shaft; if so, will repeated application of penetrating oil and gently working the lever free it up?

Is there a significant possibility of an internal problem in the pump?



I've searched the TDR site and many other diesel truck sites for answers.

I'm hoping someone can offer a suggestion, even if it contains words like "neglect" or the phrase "ya gotta drive it dummy".

 

[mwilson]

It is most likely frozen at the pivot. Remove the mounting bolts on the solenoid from the pump bracket, it will probably stand right there. My '97 was like that when I bought it. Remove the retainer clip from the end of the shaft where it meets the shut off rod, start applying penetrant and work it off. Clean it up, lube it and reassemble.

Mike.

 

[GAmes]

Remove the solenoid completely from the truck. By now the boot is probably deteriorated and jamming the whole thing up. Like Mike said, clean it, lube it with a dry lube and reassemble. I put over 400k on mine without a boot. If you feel the need for one, you can get it here. http://www.fostertruck.com/fuel-system/fuel-solenoids/solenoid-parts-and-wiring.html

 

[mwilson]

It is most likely frozen at the pivot. Remove the mounting bolts on the solenoid from the pump bracket, it will probably stand right there. My '97 was like that when I bought it. Remove the retainer clip from the end of the shaft where it meets the shut off rod, start applying penetrant and work it off. Clean it up, lube it and reassemble.



Mike.

Freezes up where circled.

 

[mothertrucker]

Same thing happened to my '97 3500.

After removing the solenoid... . I discovered that the rubber boot that protects the piston had turned to mush & the melted rubber of the boot was stuck to the piston.
Removed the piston & polished off all the melted rubber that was stuck to it. Installed new boot & re-installed solenoid & it works like a champ now.

 

[Loghead]

Thanks all for the replies.



Referring to the exploded diagram:



I tried to loosen the bolts that hold the bellcrank to the arm (8). They are quite rusted, so it suprised me little that they didn't want to turn. I noticed a "springiness" as I applied force to the bolts. I'm deathly afraid of breaking something inside the pump; my intuition tells me I ought to put an adjustable wrench over the end of the arm to prevent excessive torque being transferred through the shaft into the pump.

Thoughts?



I also don't see the cotterpin (6). I assume it has rusted away. The solenoid end is apparently fused (with rust) to the crankpin so I anticipate lots of fun trying to dissassemble the two in such tight quarters.

That's partly the reason I want to take the bellcrank off of the arm.