Fuel shutoff solenoid, (my heads bowed) help.

[moparguy]

Well, after having handled the return fuel line issue a couple of times, and replacing the 4 spade fuel shut-off solenoid activation relay with the 5. 95 Radio Shack relay back in 99, I've got a no start problem I'm not able to resolve. Here's what I done so far.



1. Swapped out the 4 lug relay on the firewall with a new one. No change, to start to truck, I've got to manually raise the fuel shut-off solenoid with the key on. I removed the solenoid, disassembled it, cleaned and reassembled, put it back on and still no improvement.



With the 3 wire connector to the solenoid unplugged, I can energize the solenoid with 12v from the battery on the black wire (after grounding the center lug) and the plunger retracts as it should.



There's a approximately 10ga. brown wire on the starter near the main 12v connection lug that I'm guessing is the signal source for the solenoid pull on relay. Checking by myself with a

voltmeter while cranking I got a little over 10volts rather than the 12-13 expected.



Thinking that was the problem, I attempted to wire a switch into the system to energize the solenoid. To do that I disconnected the main 3 wire solenoid connector and using spades, reconnected the center (white) ground and red solenoid hold on wires. Then ran 12volts through a switch to the black wire that in testing had activated the solenoid.



I was thinking this had to work and I would have a new security system as well.



Well, it didn't work. The solenoid wouldn't work with everything hooked up. I took everything back off, turned the key on, pulled the solenoid up, cranked up and headed to the hay field.



If anyone can help figure this out, I'd sure be thankful.



Ronnie

 

[radixr]

I would expect the voltage at the shutdown solenoid to drop because of the starter load so I don't think 10 volts at the solenoid is the problem. Since it works when you connect 12v and ground directly to the solenoid, maybe you should check to verify that your ground connection thru the plug is good.



Hope this helps.

 

[Joe G.]

Have you tried applying 12v to the white wire in the three wire connector with everything else hooked up? If the ground is ok, that should activate the pull on coil. One of my two "security" switches interrupts the white wire thru a relay so that the switch must be on to start.

 

[LWilliams]

I just went through the same thing about a month ago. I replaced the relay. I thought this fixed the problem but when the weather got hot and the truck had been run for 30 miles and I shut it off and then tried to start back up, I would have to pop the hood and pull up on the solenoid to start it. I finally got tired of this so I bit the bullet and spent $367. 76 on a new solenoid and it starts everytime now. I looked every where I could think of and the only place to get this thing is from the dealership. The old one looked like it should work fine, the only problem with it was the rubber boot was shot. I know it is a bitter expense to have to pay but it solved my starting problem. Good luck.

 

[JJW_ND]

You might have a bad heater solinoid that intermittently sticks on. I just had this happend to me and it did affect the fuel shut off. Even in 90 degree heat they were goint on and off very rapidly (volt gauge was bouching around). To elimnate this as a problem, remove the two leads that feed the two heaters (two 10mm nunts and roll back the two wires). Be carefull how you tie back these as if the do engergize you don't want them to be touching any gounds. In my case one heater solinoid was sticking.



I also have seen were a loose or dirty battery connection can reduce the voltage that causes the starting to come and go. Engine cranks but does not fire... . pull up on fuel shut off and away you go.



jjw

 

[Niki]

Just so you guys know I got a new fuel shutoff solenoid from cummins for $280. Dodge told me that it would be $405. All this coming after my starter solenoid stuck and backfed to the "pullup" coil in the solenoid and fried it. The new solenoid came with a new bracket to mount with, since the solenoid was much beefier than the old one, just like the new throttle cables, balljoints, etc. Wish Dodge would have gotten things right the first time.

 

[moparguy]

YEEEHAAAAAA

JJW-ND, I'm buying. Just tell me where and when. After many, many hours of checking, cleaning, by-passing and chain cussing, I finally took your suggestion and cleaned both battery's post.



Wooo Whoooooo, it cranked. You were right, plenty of voltage to turn over fine, but not enough extra to energize the solenoid.



Why is it always the last thing you try out of desperation that works.



Thanks a lot everyone.



Ronnie

 

[JJW_ND]

Glad it worked.

When I got mine 96 (first diesel) there were no online boards to read or ask questions. The TDR only came four times a year and it was a one what information exchange.



I wasted a lot of time at the dealer chasing cocerns that were really not problems at all. Or worse yet throwing money at something that could easily be fixed for free. If your dealership has access to lots of trucks the mechanics get pretty good and keep up on whats "hot". If not they treat these trucks like gassers and the problems begin.



This place has most of the anwsers.



Just remember... . you get what you paid for this advise. It is just nice once and awhile free advise actually works.



jjw

ND