Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) fuel solenoid power problems, again

[angelbay]

I had this problem on the 911 page a while back, thought it was somehow magically resolved, but alas it has shown its ugly head again and worse now. The solenoid will pull up, both relays on the firewall are ok, even replaced the big one. While cranking the solenoid opens, as soon as the key is released the solenoid drops and the truck stops. The fuel system fuse in the fuse box behind the drivers battery is good and there is power to it. First question: What does the "fuel system relay" in this fuse box do? There is no power to the 30 terminal on that relay connection and there should always be power there. I am beginning to suspect the "blue" wire fusable link. How do I check that, jumper around it? Is it replaceable? I could check continuity. Is it possible the ignition switch is the problem? I am currently blocking the solenoid up with a small block of wood but it is a pain stopping the engine like that. This is extremely frustrating. I am at the point of a choke cable type setup to bypass all the possible electrical problems in this scenerio. Couldn't it be more simple? Like my tractor? Any ideas? I am near the end of the rope here, please help with any suggestions, thanks, Steve :{

 

[John - K5AWO]

Easiest way to test for power in circuits is to obtain a "test light". They look like a screwdriver but have a sharp point like an awl. There is a light in the handle with a ground wire.



Snap the ground wire on something metal (no paint) and use the sharp point to prod that fusible link. Just keep going back toward the battery until you find the break or bad connection.



I like the test light better for this kind of job than a voltmeter. The voltmeter can read voltage thru a high resistance and make you think you have power available. The test light pulls enough current that you can tell right away. If it is bright, you got power, if it is dim you got resistance. Of course if it don't burn at all, the wire is bad/broke/fuse out, etc...

 

[Joe G.]

Originally posted by angelbay

The solenoid will pull up, both relays on the firewall are ok, even replaced the big one. While cranking the solenoid opens, as soon as the key is released the solenoid drops and the truck stops. Th

You are barking up the wrong tree. The relay and the blue fusable link work or it would not pull up.



There are two coils in the fuel solenoid; pull up and hold. The relay and blue fusable link only affect the pull up coil. The hold coil is connected directly to the key on ignition circuit. No relay and no fusable link in that circuit.



Test the fuel solenoid. Disconnect the large three wire connector that is on top of the wires. Do the test on the part of the connector that goes to the soldnoid. Connect a ground to the black wire terminal. Connect 12 volts to the terminal that has the small colored wire. Pull up the solenoid by hand. It should stay up. If it does not then you may have a problem with the fuel solenoid. If it does stay up then trouble shoot the ignition switch circuits. There was a recall on ignition switches. If your truck is covered by the recall and it has not been done then you should have that done.

 

[angelbay]

thanks so far for both tips

John, thanks for the light tip, will try that also. Joe, I had just come to the same conclusion. I re-read my manual and saw that there are 2 coils. I will check out the hold up coil and go from there, thanks again, Steve

 

[CATCRACKER]

i have the pull cable so what does that tell you. I only drive my truck on weekends so this is not a pain for me but if you work out of your truck and get in and out all of the time i would say fix it. but i love my pull cable one less thing to fix for me.

 

[angelbay]

I am pretty sure that it is the hold coil. Where is the best source for a shutoff solenoid? Thanks, Steve

 

[angelbay]

I just called the dealer, about $330 for the solenoid!!!!!Now to the junk yards... ... ... ... .

 

[BV]

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm



Or any Cummins service center.

 

[Joe G.]

Do you have 12 volts on the hold coil when the ignition switch is on?

 

[MLee]

you can convert it a lot cheaper. IH has a engine shut down cable, on some of there older trucks, and a tractor parts counter could help also. do a search, its been done and the guys love them. an other anti- theft idea.

Marv.

 

[angelbay]

yea Joe, I have plenty of voltage at the top terminal (hold) with the ignition on and then the middle terminal with the engine cranking (lift). I also used jumper wires which lifted the plunger but with power on the hold terminal it will not hold up. $179 from foster is better than the dealer but I am also having to replace my ac compressor this week too, actually the clutch but I found a compressor with clutch for the price of a clutch from the only source I could find - dealer. So I intend to pull the new clutch off the new compressor and put it on the installed and good compressor and save the new compressor for later... . I diverge. Anyway, I am pretty positive the hold coil is shot and unless this is servicable I may look into a junk yard or use a cable for the time being. Thanks again!

 

[angelbay]

Thanks for all of your help! I am also currently working on my Ford Super Dexta tractor, which has a pull kill cable... I had a couple of new manual choke cables hanging on my shop wall, ... . now a little while later, my cummins has a pull kill cable, all nice and neat !

 

[mkhenry]

I guess the Dodge dealers have different prices. It is $155 from Victory Dodge in Prattville, AL and $175 from the Freightline dealer in Montgomery, AL. I checked into getting one since my boot is tore up but at those prices, I will wait until it quits working.

 

[djbobo]

When I finally got to installing my new solenoid last week it did the exact same thing as yours. I found that if the adjustment is to long ( suppose to be something close to 2 5/8"s from top of pin to bottom of bracket ) then the plunger will not travel far enough up the cylinder to make contact with the holding coil. I don't know if it's possible for an installed one to get out of adjustment but I suggest that after you get the solenoid un-bolted to try the test again in free air. That is turn the key on and manually slide the plunger in and see if it 'holds' itself in. If not and you have 12volts to ground in the hold wire = bad noid. No voltage then start with the fuse in the cab , I think #9. If good the ign. switch possibly.



I also concer with Joeg that relay & starter contacts & blue fuesable link all ok if it pulls in & starts until the key turns back to run possition.

I did a search when Mine was starting then stopping in the run position & only came up with problems & fixes for the pull up part of the solenoid..... ie---blue wire,relay on firewall,starter contacts ect. none of witch applied to me ---or you in this case.



I to was on my way to the manual cable solution - but wanted to install a turbo timer in wich wouln't be possible with the manual set-up.

 

[LarryB]

Here is a link to the furl solenoid adjustment procedure.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/12v_fuel_solenoid.html



Larry

 

[JWaters]

putting on a pull cable is like a tractor, if your truck is this far out of date you might as well remove the alternater and put a generator on it.



I for one will not jerry rig my truck!