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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) fuel solenoid switch

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine will not crank

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Here Kitty, Kitty!

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I am having trouble with my truck-it won't shut off sometimes. I believe it is the fuel shut-off solenoid switch, as I have had this trouble twice before and both times this was the problem. Where is this switch located and how difficult is it to change? Are there any other alternatives to fixing this problem? I am reluctant to bring it to the dealer this time as the truck is now out of warranty.
 
I'm pretty sure the fuel solenoid is sticking. How does one go about changing it or un-sticking it? I don't believe it's the ignition switch as I can pull the key out and the truck still runs.
 
The ignition switch has nothing to do with the truck running. The fuel solenoid supplies fuel until it lets go. If it is sticking then turning off the ignition switch so the hold coil is not energized will not turn off the engine if the fuel solenoid is stuck open. Maybe some others who have had this problem will chime in. Bill, do you have an comments? If it was me I would pull the solenoid off and take it apart to clean it. Also need to clean and lube the linkage and lever on the injection pump.
 
You can determine whether the problem is electrical or mechanical (crud in solenoid, linkage needs lube) by unplugging the solenoid electrical connector while the engine is stuck running and see if it stays running.

I'm with Joe and tend to think you need to remove the solenoid and clean it plus lube the linkage.

Lubing the linkage seems to get ignored quite often on these engines since the manuals say nothing about it. On Mercedes I've worked on the manual recommends linkage lube with every oil change. It's hassle too, I've never seen a goofier linkage setup than on a MB, must be at least twenty pivot points.
 
Benz linkage has to be the WORST in the world. The older 560's and the even older 67's with fuel injection are a pain. I really dispise the diesel linkages on them. Adjust this and you can get idle, but you can't get WOT. Adjust that and you can get WOT, but not idle. I've spent 2. 5 hours trying to get the dang thing right!





Josh
 
I just replaced my fuel shutoff solonoid because I was having low power issues because it was sticking. The part is about $210- $275 and it wasn't that hard to do. I am not a mechanic but I did it in about 30 minutes. Problem solved for me.
 
Save a buck and take the 2 bolts out for the selenoid and clean the linkage underneath it.

had the same problem last winter. The pressed ball joint rusts and prevents free movement.

easy as pie.
 
I haven't had the chance to try any of the remedies to the problem until today. Of course, by now I've received the latest issue of TDR and in the '94-'98 12 valve section at the beginning is the very problem I am having. Joe G. and Illflem and Mr. Patton's answers in the article and on this site were of great help. Today, after not using the truck for about a week, the solenoid again stuck. This time, it wouldn't start after a trip. After reading the articles and problem solutions in the TDR, I have determined the solenoid IS sticking as I reached under it with the key on, pulled the lever down, and started the truck with no problem. I figure the TDR and this web site saved me around $500 at least. Thanks to all who responded.
 
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