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Fuel system pics

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looking at 92 250 club 4x4

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No secrets here, this is old technology ;). Inlet thread to the VE is 12mm x 1. 5. I used a 12mm by 6 AN/JIC adaptor, first pic. One could use a 90* pushlok fitting instead of the 90* 6AN x 6AN elbow I used. Local shop didn't have any of the previous. This would save a few bucks. Next after the 90* elbow is a Cummins/Fleetguard filter head. Nipple is 1" 14 thread. Inlet, outlet is 7/8" or 10AN/JIC. Others are available if you want smaller inlet/outlets, that is if you don't intend on using #10 fuel hose.



Next is the filter head/filter and Aeromotive A1000 electric lift pump mounted to the frame. Filter used is Fleetguard FS1000. Next pic shown is a 10AN bulkhead fitting on top the tank for suction. Make sure you use the correct type of bulkhead fitting with nylon/metal type washer ontop the tank, you don't want the washer inside the tank. Fuel can travel up the threads of the fitting. IIRC these were steel bulkheads. There is a nylon material on the ID of the metal washer. Sorry I didn't take any pics of the pickup and intank fuel filter. One could use an inline type external filter like Aeromotive carries with a 100 micron rating. I didn't have room before the electric fuel pump for such.



Lines between the intank fuel filter, A1000, filter head and regulator are 5/8" ID. Regulator return to tank is 1/2" ID. Regulator to VE is 3/8" ID. Continued in next post.
 
The regulator is a bypass design. Base pressure is adjustable from 3-15psi. It returns anything over that back to the tank. A 8 AN/JIC bulkhead is shown here. Next pics is the regulator itself. Note the 30psi Westach electric fuel pressure gauge sensor mounted, it has a 1/8npt port for fuel pressure testing. It has a cheesy 1/16npt vacuum/boost port for increasing fuel pressure 1:1 with vacuum or boost. We don't want it at 1:1 because we'd see 50+psi of fuel pressure. For now I'm using a needle valve barely cracked open to regulate the air to this port. I've got it to where it keeps the fuel pressure around 30psi at 50psi of boost. A true air pressure regulator is in the works.

Edit: more pics in my readers gallery BGilbert/ VE Fuel System.
 
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Nice job Bill! Hope that drive shaft doesn't twist off and take the filter with it!

On edit- ooops! brain fart, noticed after that it's on the outside of the tank! :eek:
 
Don't worry Pete. The fuel tank is between the driveshaft and the filter. It will protect it. :-laf :-laf



Bill put a CB in the truck for next weekend.
 
Bill, what about cold air that can get to the filter in the winter? I would be a little nervous about the filter gelling up with it being exposed like that.



Ben
 
benhall- I figure it would get just as cold under the hood by the time it sat overnight.



nice pics, Bill. I have been contemplating getting a later model fuel filter housing, and running a 7micron filter in it, as opposed to the stock 10micron.



Daniel
 
I had a similar setup once, it was not the filter that would gel, it was the fittings that would do that. A small amount of insulation on the inlet and outlet fittings fixed the problem very well.
 
Inline pumps like that aren't supposed to suck fuel, they're supposed to be gravity fed, like if you sump your tank or put the bulkhead fitting in the back bottom part. A friend of mine had problems w/ that same pump sucking fuel on a Mustang, but I know several who have not had problems. How often do you drive your truck in below zero weather, because the filter sticking down and in the windstream like that could be more susceptible to gelling. When its under the hood its shielded somewhat and next to a hot motor also. Good idea w/ the boost referenced regulator and restricting the orifice, yet another thing to tune with. :cool:
 
dpuckett said:
benhall- I figure it would get just as cold under the hood by the time it sat overnight.



Yeah, but around here a truck will usually start and idle, but when you get it out on the road it gels... ... . then again, there is no way I would drive a first gen with a manual in the winter time, on the ice and snow, that is running 400+hp and almost 1000 ft lbs... . :eek: I don't see any reason why the fuel filter couldn't be mounted up in the engine compartment for a little more protection.



All in all, nothing a good shot of #1 diesel fuel and some Power Service or Howe's won't cure come winter time. It would be easy to change the filter along side the road though, except for the dripping snow, ice, slush, and the cold ground to lay on... ... ... :-laf



Michael
 
Hopefully when I go up there in January to get my truck back, there will be lots of snow, but not so cold that I can't play in the stuff.



Ben
 
DP this FS1000 is 10 micron, FS1232 (stock fuel filter) per Cummins Filtration (Fleetguard) is 25 micron, fwiw. Besides, doesn't a finer filter require more frequent changing? Plus the VE is tough, it don't mind them big ole pieces of gunk:-laf!



Gelling: nothing a hole jug of Howe's won't take care of.



Niki, I heard how tough it could be or the troubles/headaches that come from getting a bulkhead to seal in the bottom of the tank, so I just opted to go in from the top. Aeromotive instructs if it's not gravity fed, then mount it as close as possible to the tank as I did.



One downside for a 'quiet' truck, is it's (the pump) loud. Now if you have stacks, straight pipe, side pipe or no muffler, it probly wouldn't be noticeable. I have a nice quiet bigexhaust.com muffler and I can detect it. Some riders say they don't notice it, but you know how it is when you know your own truck and can hear a flea fart at 75mph. Oh the other downside is price:eek::(. .
 
HiJack

Hey BG:



I picked up an aluminum auxillary in bed fuel tank this weekend and was wondering how I plumb this thing in. It has the filler and one threaded line coming out of the bottom. I am told that diesel works on a return process and to plumb this thing in directly would be a "No no".



So I guess what I have is a glorified "Jerry can" is this right?



Any insight or clarification appreciated,
 
Featherman, you might start a new thread. I'm sure there are plenty of auxillary tank/plumbing experts around. I have some ideas, but no experience with them.
 
why not plunb the auxillary into the top of the factory tank and run the vent and return to the top of the auxillary tank and block the regular tanks filler neck and vent and returns etc and just use the auxillary tank as the fill?

I am contemplating this on my spring project I am making. .

thanks

Deo
 
Deo



You might want to rethink the way your wanting to do that. The fuel sending unit is held in with a twist on plastic ring. The unit is sealed with a O-ring. Now ask yourself if that factory system will hold under the weight and pressure of 50 to 100 gallons of extra fuel it was not designed for.



If it would not and you were caught with spill on a public road. DOT and/or the Sate Police will call in a haz mat crew crew most of the time for cleanup.
 
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