Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) fuel system

[RConner]

I am considering using an areomotive pump that I have that flows 150gph at 18 to 20 psi, to eliminate my carter. I figured I could get all the brass fittings at my local hardware store and the fuel lines at my local automotive store.



What size fuel lines should I run? I was thinking 3/8 id, or should I go 1/2 id.



Is 18 to 20 psi going to be to high for the vp44?



Do you need to change the return side? If so what size line?



Should I run 3/8 to the filter then 1/2 to the pump?



Do most of you guys relocate and use a new style of filter?



Sorry for all the questions but I already have the pump and I think I could do everything for about $50. 00

 

[NoSeeUm]

I am considering using an areomotive pump that I have that flows 150gph at 18 to 20 psi, to eliminate my carter. I figured I could get all the brass fittings at my local hardware store and the fuel lines at my local automotive store.



Most would likely recommend 14-16 psi max



What size fuel lines should I run? I was thinking 3/8 id, or should I go 1/2 id.



I used 1/2 inch. 3/8 is likely adequate, but 1/2 does not cost a whole lot more.



Is 18 to 20 psi going to be to high for the vp44?



See above



Do you need to change the return side? If so what size line?



I did not change the return side. But some people that have done a big line installation used the old supply line and converted it to the return line.



Should I run 3/8 to the filter then 1/2 to the pump?



See above



Do most of you guys relocate and use a new style of filter?



I left my stock fuel filter in place. It has a heater in it that is required for cold weather operation. I did install an in-line screen filter in the pump suction line.



Sorry for all the questions but I already have the pump and I think I could do everything for about $50. 00



Good Luck! :{

LOL



Two topics with the same name right at the top.



Check this TDR thread out.



I just did a 1/2 inch line upgrade and installed a Draw Straw. Very good fuel pressure so far. IMO well worth the effort.



Jim

 

[RConner]

We must of been typing at the same time. :-laf



I was trying not to have to buy alot of parts besides fittings and hoses at this time. Can our stock pickup handle 160gph. ?

 

[DLausche]

NoSeeUm's comments are right on track. Sounds like he did his exactly the same as I did. I would limit the fuel pressure to around 16 or so.



Make sure you use AN style fittings to make it easy to replace the pump when it fails. 3/8 line is fine. No real need to use 1/2 and I think it makes it harder to purge the air when changing filter, etc. I used 1/2 only because I had some on hand. Fine to use the stock return line. I modified at the tank to return fuel outside the bowl in the tank. I left the stock filter in place and put a Racor 645 in front of the tank plumbed between tank and pump. I would recommend something a bit larger than the 645. I'm going to go to a Racor 660 filter element when my supply of the 645 elements runs out. If you do install a filter by the tank, then I would recommend plumbing in a ball style shutoff between tank and filter to stop the flow when changing the filter.



You will be doing really good if you can plumb it all for $50 or so. I ended up spending a lot more than that. If I had it to do over again, I would have just gone with the Vulcan big line kit.



-Deon

 

[RConner]

Looking at the vulcan kit it looks like the way to go. My lift pump I have now gives me 15 to 16 psi at idle, but can go down pretty hard on level 5x5 on the juice. It must be a solid pump so the line kit should take care of my problems.

 

[AFarmer]

I had an Aeromotive on my truck - sounded like a dang meat grinder under the truck. I FASSed it and have been happy ever since. Quite and consistent. Can't drop below 15lbs at WOT.

 

[NoSeeUm]

Looking at the vulcan kit it looks like the way to go. My lift pump I have now gives me 15 to 16 psi at idle, but can go down pretty hard on level 5x5 on the juice. It must be a solid pump so the line kit should take care of my problems.

I would recommend the Vulcan kit. Also consider Geno's or Glacier 3/8 inch kits. That way you get the the 12mm - XX AN fattings for the LP, Fuel Filter and the IP. You also get the extended OEM connector wiring harness. BTW Vulcan sells all the parts separately, if you want to build your own kit. Glacier also sells individual parts, mostly to do a 3/8 inch system.



I wanted to standardize my set-up so I used all 1/2 inch hose, tubing , NPT and -8AN where I could. The WalBro pumps use 3/8 inch stuff, so I did use some 3/8 hose but all the fittings go to -8AN.



Another thing that I did that you could think doing is that I put two 1/2 inch brass ball valves in. One just at the front of the tank ahead of the pump inlet. The other up near the fuel filter. Both mounted to the frame. So far this has saved me from a couple of diesel showers and quite a bit of time venting on the injector lines.



Jim

 

[NoSeeUm]

I had an Aeromotive on my truck - sounded like a dang meat grinder under the truck. I FASSed it and have been happy ever since. Quite and consistent. Can't drop below 15lbs at WOT.

The OEM Carter is no better. The one big boo-boo I made in my set-up was not sound mounting it.



Jim

 

[steved]

My only comment is that I remember reading that the automotive grade Aeromotive pumps were not diesel rated at one point... it seemed that only the marine versions were rated for diesel.



This was stuff I read in old threads so maybe they changed the seal composition??



steved

 

[AFarmer]

My Aeromotive actually leaked fuel only during the Winter months - was loud but it certainly did the job.

 

[rweis]

Everything I see above I agree with generally. I used AN-6, ball valves help isolate (also a theft deterrent if you are not going to be using your truck for a couple of days) filter changes.



What I use to bleed the system is a length of hose (10' or so) that goes between the VP44 and the tank (I keep in the "toolbox"). To purge air, unscrew the AN fitting off the VP44 (put an AN cap on the Vp44 to keep the fuel in the Vp44 in place) and screw your length of fuel line to that VP44 feed line and run it back to the tank filler. Bump your starter to run your lp sytem whatever it is until the flow through your long line back to the tank is clear and strong. I made the last couple of feet clear tubing so I can see how the air purge is doing. I "experiment" a lot with fuel cooling and open the fuel system frequently. The "purge" hose has worked very well for me. Simple, effective.



Bob Weis

 

[lsenus]

I too have the Vulcan 1/2" kit with the pump moved to the frame rail. I also installed one of Vulcan's prototype draw straws. IMO the draw straw is a must for these systems. Once you take a look at the intank components, you'll be amazed at how small some of the orifices are in the supply line pickup. Some measured less than 1/4" ID.

 

[RConner]

I ordered the vulcan big line kit so I will see how it works.

 

[NoSeeUm]

Everything I see above I agree with generally. I used AN-6, ball valves help isolate (also a theft deterrent if you are not going to be using your truck for a couple of days) filter changes.



What I use to bleed the system is a length of hose (10' or so) that goes between the VP44 and the tank (I keep in the "toolbox"). To purge air, unscrew the AN fitting off the VP44 (put an AN cap on the Vp44 to keep the fuel in the Vp44 in place) and screw your length of fuel line to that VP44 feed line and run it back to the tank filler. Bump your starter to run your lp sytem whatever it is until the flow through your long line back to the tank is clear and strong. I made the last couple of feet clear tubing so I can see how the air purge is doing. I "experiment" a lot with fuel cooling and open the fuel system frequently. The "purge" hose has worked very well for me. Simple, effective.



Bob Weis

I thought about doing the "purge hose" also, just have not got to it yet. I thought I might tee into the fuel pressure sensing line.



You tie it into your pump return or use a seperate line?



Edit: More Fuel System



Jim

 

[rweis]

I use a seperate line with a male on it like the VP44 has whe you replace the banjo with a full flow fitting.



Unscrew the fuel feed to the VP44, cap the VP44, screw in the purge line, run it back to the tank along the ground beside the truck, put line into the tank filler neck enough so it does not accidentally come out (I use clear for the last couple fo feet so I can see the bubbles if any), bump the starter.



Actually the whole purge line could be something like tygon (clear). I just had the extra length of fuel line.



Bob Weis



I COULD balance a 55 gal drum on the roof, start the syphon to the VP44, run it that way lol.