2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fuel Tank Float - How many of us had to change it because it deteriorated?

[rweis]

Well, once you change the fuel level sender system and the fuel pickup system, the tank SHOULD not ever have to be dropped again.



The cannister only becomes a mechanical holder for the DrawStraw.

The mechanical fuel level sender has outside remote eletrical connections.

The float is changed to an industrial extreme condition float.



Ain't nothing left in there that is not strickly mechanical and really heavy duty construction or materials.



However, you could say that the "hatch" is for when you have to "batten down the hatches" or where you stuff ferd's or chebby's after you have eaten them.



Bob Weis

 

[rweis]

Swap out is finished.



Taking a week or so to leak check it by opening the aux bed tank into the OEM tank 100% of the time so the OEM tank is fully as full as it can possibly be.



Swap out went smoothly. LOTS of pics. I'm starting a write up of all the fuel tank modifications complete with dimensions, pictures, explanations.



Bob Weis

 

[rweis]

No leaks / seepage now a week later.



The aux bed tank has been keeping the OEM at maximum full.



I want to go another week or two before I committ to a leak / seepage free install.



Write up is just about done verbage wise, now adding pictures.



Bob Weis

 

[DouglasWilliams]

Not trying to hi-jack the post, but was wondering if anybody has seen the following:
Fuel gauge remains on 1/8 tank (light on), DTE shows steady ~60 miles. I ran the tank out of gas without knowing the gauge was faulty.
Every post I've seen shows the opposite. . more fuel in the tank then the gauge shows. What about the gauge showing fuel in the tank when there isn't any? Has anybody run across this yet?

 

[rweis]

No leaks, no seepage, about 50 days later and ?? number of tank fills.



Gauge exactely right. Fillup is 24-25 gallons at the 1/8 "low fuel" light just as it was before the tank surgery.



For me this was the absolute fix.



I will watch the thread as it goes along, but mine is complete and a complete success.



Bob Weis

 

[fairmont]

Bob,



Is everything still good on yours? I lost signal over the weekend. Started up and gauge is peged below E and fuel light on. Haven't had a chance to look yet, could be bad sender or possibly a broken solder joint.



Rick

 

[rweis]

The fuel gauge fix is still running fine. The thing I will re-caution about is that you have to alter the tank (put in a different fuel level sender) and how you go about sealing you may or may not have some seepage.



If I fill up and also leave the drain my bed tank into the OEM main open I sometimes get a little dampness on the side of the tank. Not enough to actually drip off the bottom, but a little dampness on the side.



What I do is fill the OEM main and just use the bed tank to refill the OEM main but not leave the bed tank filling the OEM main past full.



If I am on a long trip I don't worry about it. If I am at home I will shutoff the bed tank until I am ready to refill the OEM main tank then stop short of physically full.



The fuel level system though is working fine. I still have one or two extra PF26 floats I think.



Bob Weis

 

[fairmont]

I did the same mod as you, but something just recently stopped working. I've got a new capsule on the way, the problem is I have to drop the tank again to swap out the remote read capsule.

 

[rweis]

I did my mod so ther is some short room to be able to change the capsul without totally dropping the tank. I also put a LONG wire set and hose set so I can drop the tank without disconnecting anything until the tank is on the ground and I can visually see what is going on.



My guess is a connector or the resistor pack to make compatiable to the DC canbus. I soldered all mine to eliminate any connector problems, also why the wire set and hoses are so long, but I just roll the wire set and the hoses up and zip tie them together.



Bob Weis

 

[fairmont]

I'm planning to look into it next weekend. Will let you know what I find. The new capsule is here, have new resistor in route (plus a couple of spares) not able to find another 2700 ohm locally.

 

[CTD12V]

Whew, just got done reading through all the pages of this thread. Bob, if you are still monitoring this thread, do you have a long bed or short bed? I suspect that may be the difference between the tank designs, rather than the year, since (IIRC) the tank capacity is slightly less on the shortbeds than the longbeds. Richard's signature lists his as a shortbed . . .



Did you ever get a full write up put together of your final install?



CTD12V

 

[rweis]

Yep, I still monitor TDR.



After I think several years now, the fuel gauge system is still working fine. The resistor values are right on, the poly carbonate float concept is fine, the boat fuel gauge is fine, the total sealability is still an issue if you fill the main tank slap dab full from the bed tank.



When I run the OEM tank from the bed tank there is a little weepage. If it sits in the driveway for a week or so I get a couple of drops on the driveway. The way I prevent this is to only fill the OEM tank about 3/4 full (based on the slope of MY driveway (about 15* slope)).



When I am going to run long distances I manually open the ball valve between the bed tank and the OEM tank and accept the weepage. I never found anything that would seal diesel completely. What I use is the rubber seal spacers on both sides of the OEM tank with the screws evenly torqued all the way around. The rubber seal rings are diesel rated and I think the weepage is up the threads of the screws when the tank is overfilled. Just don't overfill it and it should be fine.



Now I have NO idea if the tank varies between long bed or short bed. I would be happy to measure the tank on my long bed if that would help.



The other tank mods, the draw straw, the bed tank fill to the OEM filler neck, all work fine. BTW there is a commercial package to fill the OEM tank from the bed tank that DOES NOT WORK WITH GRAVITY FEED. The orafice is about 1/32" - 1/16" and that is not enough. I finally plumbed in a 1/4" pipe into the filler neck hose so when I am pulling my RV (13k #) it will fill the OEM tank fast enough from the bed tank to cover what the engine is burning and still fill the OEM tank.



I do not get on TDR much anymore as I got a scooter to get to work when the gas prices were so high a year ago and found out I like riding an "in line" vehicle. I still use the 1 ton to tow the RV monthly and it tows really well about 65 mph on the flat Florida roads. I still keep the fluids changed, have about 100k on it and will keep it to be burried in, I think with a full tank of diesel and running. "When the truck dies, I will go with it (of course I will have already gone)"



Anyway, any way I can help you with the tank system I would be happy to do so. Often when I drive it and the fuel temps approach 120* with all the fuel coolers I have under it and know solder starts melting at 140* (ie the VP pump chip) I wonder how anyone without fuel cooling ever gets by, except to buy a VP44 every few years (which is totally unnecessary btw IF you cool your fuel)



Ah well, let me know if I can be of help,



Bob Weis

 

[rivercat]

I changed my fuel sender/float on my truck last fall. I also put an inline fuel filter before the lift pump and got rid of the fuel heater prescreen. The inline filter should help prolong the life of the lift pump. We have the inline fuel filter on our tractors and have not had a lift pump failure even with a lot of hours.

What is the size/model of this inline filter that u speak of?

 

[CToney]

The lift pump was fed with a 3/8" diesel rated fuel line which I put in a 3/8" inline fuel filter. I got the filter at our local Case IH dealer. The fuel filter is used on many different tractor models and is only a couple of $$$. Any inline fuel filter should work.

 

[rivercat]

anyone have a good place or part number for a sending unit? im not sure if the float fell off or the contact stripe is worn out but I need one and all my local places cant get it. They only offer stuff for the intank pump setups not the as delivered sending unit with engine mounted lift pump like I have.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

anyone have a good place or part number for a sending unit? im not sure if the float fell off or the contact stripe is worn out but I need one and all my local places cant get it. They only offer stuff for the intank pump setups not the as delivered sending unit with engine mounted lift pump like I have.

IF all else fails, and you are interested, I have the "reconditioned" sending unit Bob Weis sent me, and seen in THIS thread:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ions/188123-anatomy-fuel-tank-gauge-unit.html



It's yours if you feel it's worth a try - it LOOKS OK, but is untested...

 

[CTD12V]

anyone have a good place or part number for a sending unit? im not sure if the float fell off or the contact stripe is worn out but I need one and all my local places cant get it. They only offer stuff for the intank pump setups not the as delivered sending unit with engine mounted lift pump like I have.

I can't get the web page to link to the item, but you can check out Dodgepartsonline.net (Dodge Parts - Dodge Parts Online). They list a Walbro sending unit for your truck:



SHOPPING CART



Collision Catalog - 2002 - Dodge - Ram 2500 pickup

Fuel system, Fuel system components, Sending unit, Walbro, Walbro - Diesel w/pick-up box - Diesel w/pick-up box $45. 31

Total: $45. 31



You'd have to call them to verify a matching part number, since the web site doesn't list it. This site is the internet sales branch of Wyatt Arp Dodge out of Sequin, TX. I have ordered a number of parts from them, and their internet pricing is usually the lowest I've found. Note that dodgepartsonline. COM is a different site than this one with a . NET



Good Luck,



CTD12V

 

[rivercat]

I will be glad to try it and report Gary. shoot me a paypal request for shipping, I will pm my email

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I will be glad to try it and report Gary. shoot me a paypal request for shipping, I will pm my email

Email PM sent - no payment required, just send me your mailing address.

 

[MLee]

Gary;

what did you coat the float with? Looks like you did a Ohm test, so it registers.

When I last had mine out I coated it with a two part Epoxy and because my tank has the two expansion humps I centered the float as close to in-between because of tank design where it goes as to advoid the tank erosion that happens by the rubbing action. When you clean the screen in the fuel pump strainer, that black stuff is you float. Your first indication something is going on some where in the system.

I also took an old brass float from a Carburetor and mounted it, it should work but have not tried it yet.

That sender looks pretty beefy.