Fuel tank full? or is it??

[2shus]

I got my 95 a few months ago and the first several times i filled up it would hold at or over 30 gallons and the gauge would go way above full and stay for 2-3 days of driving before it would even move. Now the last 3 times i have filled up it would only hold 24-25 gallon and the gauge doesent go clear to full. Also i ran it dead on empty the last tank even the low fuel light had been on for miles. (Don't know how low you can run without running out?) I try to squeeze more in but it just won't go. The last fillup i drove about 20 miles and tryed to fill up again thinking it just needed to settle but it was still full. I know i am not losing it cause it held more before and isn't 35 gallon tank standard on the diesels? I also tryed different place to get fuel in case it was foaming up or something. If any one has any input i could use it, thanks.

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1995 Dodge 2500 SLT Reg. cab 4x4 Auto,Long Bed 12 valve, 3. 5 rears, K&N Air filter 112,000 miles Anti lock brk sys, 305/70-16/Mickey Thompson Alum. wheels,Leer cap, Nerf Bars, Black/Black C/D Player Overload springs, Reese Hitch, T. C. Lockup switch, Cats dead, straight pipe.

 

[rosebunch]

I think you will find you have a bad sending unit in your fuel tank. These are known for this problem. I had similar problems but fortunatly I was still under warranty when it happened to me so do not know what the cost to fix is #ad


Bob

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95 CC 4x4 3. 54 Laramie SLT Driftwood/green,Tint, Gemtop Cap, Dodge bed liner, mud flaps,
Geno EGT/Boost, TST #6, Auto Trans, 59K miles,(I don't get out much),
265x16 coopers, DeeZee Rboards, K&N Airfilter.

 

[LandShark]

Do a TDR search on 'fuel sender'. This is a very common problem and you will find an hour of reading.

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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3300 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters (used only with the camper on), K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
110,000 miles and counting.

 

[The patriot]

2shus, I can drive over 100 miles before my gauge drops, but I fill mostly at home so I get more in.
Last time I had the low fuel light on, I drove 100 miles and it took less than 30 gallons. On my truck at least, I figure I have 10-12 gals in it when the light comes on.
Your readings may vary. #ad

Eric

 

[Joe G.]

2shus,

The sending units have been a problem. If your '95 has the original it is not as good as a later "improved" one. The fuel warning light was shining on mine in AZ once and I went over 50 miles with my 10' camper mostly uphill to Page, AZ expecting it to quit at any time. It took 27 gallons!! It failed completely a few months later and I replaced it. This one is better but still not to be trusted. These things are supposed to have a 36 gallon tank. I put 35. 1 gallons in mine once when the stations on US101 in northern CA were unexpectedly closed one night and I barely made it to Fortuna. When it's full it takes a long time for it to move but when it gets to 1/4 tank it falls like a shot duck.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Eric_77]

Part is ~300 from Dodge. Be sure tank is empty when you take it in to be fixed or when you do it yourself. Dodge told me about 3 hours to fix. So at dealer fix would be about 500 in my area. Fuel weighs almost 8# a gallon and tank weighs about 35 so full tank is over 300#. When I did mine I kept 5 gallons of fuel with me ran truck out and then put about 3 gallons in just enough to get home.

 

[illflem]

Eric, they must have sold you the entire tank module, the sender is only around $70. The way to beat having an empty tank is to jack up the drivers side of the bed, many dealers do it this way even if the tank is empty. I've done it both ways, it's about the same amount of work either way, I prefer lifting the bed over dropping the tank though.

 

[Eric_77]

Do you have the part # for the sender? They are trying to sell me the whole unit. I have another truck to do.

 

[2shus]

Originally posted by illflem:
Eric, they must have sold you the entire tank module, the sender is only around $70. The way to beat having an empty tank is to jack up the drivers side of the bed, many dealers do it this way even if the tank is empty. I've done it both ways, it's about the same amount of work either way, I prefer lifting the bed over dropping the tank though.

IIflem: When you jack the bed up do you have to unbolt anything pertaining to the bed or do you just stretch the suspension out enough to get at the tank module?? #ad




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1995 Dodge 2500 SLT Reg. cab 4x4 Auto,Long Bed 12 valve, 3. 5 rears, K&N Air filter 112,000 miles Anti lock brk sys, 305/70-16/Mickey Thompson Alum. wheels,Leer cap, Nerf Bars, Black/Black C/D Player Overload springs, Reese Hitch, T. C. Lockup switch, Cats dead, straight pipe.

 

[illflem]

You remove the bolts that hold down the bed on the tank side loosen the bolts on the other side and use a jack with a piece of wood on top to protect your paint to raise. I've heard of folks also using a come-a-long over a beam connected to the front and rear tie downs. Disconnect the fill hose, vent and unplug the connector for the tail lights, tailgate lights also if you have a 3500. The bed will pivot on the remaining pass side bolts no problem. You only have to go up about 16". Make sure to wedge a piece of wood between the frame and bed while working in there, it would make one hell of a mouse trap. You will also need some extra large Channel Locks or even oil filter pliers to loosen the large plastic nut on the module. DC says to replace the tank to module seal when reassembling, I don't know anyone who has and has never heard of any problems reusing the old seal. Disconnecting the hoses from the module is very easy, but hard to explain without a picture, maybe someone with a scanner or a fast typer can pipe in.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 03-16-2001). ]

 

[LandShark]

There are 3 bolts on each side of the bed. You need to just loosen the passenger side bolts and remove the 3 driver side bolts.

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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3300 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters (used only with the camper on), K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
110,000 miles and counting.

 

[SlyBones]

When I got my 97 last July, the gauge did not work at all. I made Dodge pick up the tab. Anyways they replaced the entire module and sender. The $500 route.

I told them about posts I read about just replacing the sender, the $50 method. Even had some cool pic's of guys who claimed do figure out the real problem, and had ways to modify the sender so it never happened again. They were tired of buying new senders every year or so.

Dodge told me this is why they replaced them both, with the updated design. Otherwise they usually wear our again and the owners end up coming back, ****** off, a year later. By replacing both they never get them back. Lucky for me did not have to pay.

Now my gauge just makes it to full. Comes off of full real fast, and can run for miles on empty. Usually only takes 26-27 gal when the light comes on.

Tech used the "raise the bed" method.

My 96 gasser was the exact opposite. Stayed on full for 100+ miles, moved quickly though the gauge range. I agree individual results will vary.


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1997 2500 4x4, CC, Auto, 3. 54 LSD, 66K, Everything inc Leather, K&N, 4" BD cat-back, otherwise stock, Isspro Gauges(3), 285/75/16 on Alcola's, RS9000's, Canopy, BedLiner, and tons more.

 

[The patriot]

2shus, I have an update. I was driving home from work last night, 480 miles, and it reads 1/2 tank. #ad

Eric

 

[RBrunson]

2shus, The part # on the sensor *** 'y that I bought for my 96 is 26624E. The raised bed method is the best, and I did not disconnect any tail light wires, takes a little over an hour... . Somebody out there ask Illflem a question, I want to see him go over 3000 today. . #ad


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Ron

'96 4x2 2500 Garnet/Driftwood Auto,3. 54,K&N,Cobra,Westac guages combo 50psi boost/egt, trans temp. on AutoMeter full piller duel pod, 93 TT Terry 29L,'84 VW Rabbit diesel,

 

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by 2shus:
I got my 95 a few months ago and the first several times i filled up it would hold at or over 30 gallons and the gauge would go way above full and stay for 2-3 days of driving before it would even move. Now the last 3 times i have filled up it would only hold 24-25 gallon and the gauge doesent go clear to full. Also i ran it dead on empty the last tank even the low fuel light had been on for miles. (Don't know how low you can run without running out?) I try to squeeze more in but it just won't go. The last fillup i drove about 20 miles and tryed to fill up again thinking it just needed to settle but it was still full. I know i am not losing it cause it held more before and isn't 35 gallon tank standard on the diesels? I also tryed different place to get fuel in case it was foaming up or something. If any one has any input i could use it, thanks.

I have the same problem with my gauge. It will read full for the first 50 miles then read empty with the fuel pump symbol lite. I know its just a bad sending unit in the tank. I use my tripometer to calculate how much fuel is in the tank. No one here has discussed your fill up problem yet. Check your fill hose to the tank and make sure its not going higher than the tank.
This will cause the fuel to roll back at the
nozel and shut off the fill. Also I think there is a return breather in the fuel tank which only vents when the cap is off during fill up. If its clogged or not opening there is no way for air to vent out while you are trying to fill the tank. I had this problem with a FORD I use to own. ( notice I said use to own) Hope this helps.