2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fuel tank removal - crossmember removal

[Mo Galbreath]

I'm in the process of replacing the fuel sender, and I've run into a question. I've got the tank disconnected (fuel lines and electrical), straps are loose, but now there's a crossmember blocking lowering the tank. It's right behind the output of the transfer case, has four bolts holding it in place (between the frame rails, and those suckers are tight), and only suports the fuel tank. The factory manual makes no mention of this thing, not even in the frame section. I thought I'd be able to slide the tank enough to get it out, but that won't work. This is on a 2001. 5 Quad cab 4WD with 35 gallon tank. I've always been able to find any answers I needed on TDR, never had to post before. Didn't find any reference via search, so here's my first post. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Pavemen]

is it actually supporting the tank? it is likely for the factory skidplate

 

[Mo Galbreath]

It actually supports the tank. I used a 2 foot cheater bar and broke the bolts loose, they were really corroded after almost 10 years. Once the support was out of the way the tank dropped smoothly. Of course, the stupid float was half dissolved in the tank and had come free from the sender. The fuel module filter (screen) is full of old float material, as is the module itself. Yippee. I was just paranoid about taking something off that I shouldn't.

 

[DFerverda]

8 bolts and 2 electrical connectors and the fuel fill,and you can lift the bed off.
I have done this 3-4 times IMO it is a lot easier then dropping the tank.
Be sure to look real close at the fuel feed tube, if it has any rust it may suck air, vulcan has a draw straw that works good to replace it if it is in fact rusty.
Good luck.

 

[GAmes]

I'm curious. Do you use fuel additives of any type. I've had to replace my fuel sender three times over the years and none of the floats have melted. I've read several times about bad floats, so I'm trying to figure out why.

 

[kenny61]

The last one (2nd since 1996) was partially degraded. the only additive i used was anti gell and that is only used once or twice a year on the coldest nights when I am scheduled to work midnights. Mine was not melted it was kinda just falling apart

 

[Mo Galbreath]

Got it all done. The bed removal would have been a pain at this point in time, but after doing it this way, if I ever have to do it again, I'm going to think _hard_ about pulling the bed. My arms don't bend as well as they used to.



And yes, I have used additives over the years. I use Power Services stuff - cetane boost in the summer, anti-gel in the winter. The float had just started to disintegrate... . came off the rod, and probably a third or so otherwise melted away. Otherwise, the old sender looked like new - measured out just fine.



Thanks to everyone for replying. TDR has to be one of the best investments ever if you own a Dodge Cummins!

 

[Mo Galbreath]

One more note - one of the things that was really a pain was getting the electrical connector to the fuel module off. I had to really push the red locking tab hard to the right (it finally snapped into place, and that was one of those places where extra arm bend would have been handy), and then compress the grey tab hard and pull. No doubt everybody else knows this, but it wasn't intuitive to me at all. The fuel connectors, which I thought would be the hard part, weren't too bad.

 

[kenny61]

Intuitive? Your talking to a guy that did it right the first time (fuel connectors) no problem got em off 1,2,3 and had a complete brain fart the second time and wound up cutting the lines because I forgot they were snap lock connectors.....