Fuel Transfer pump

[snowracer69]

I'm looking for a transfer pump to move fuel from my aux. tank to my main tank. Right now I have it as a gravity feed system, and that works fine and dandy as long as you have 5 hours to wait for it to feed in 15 gallons and that the aux tank has at least 30 gallons in it (50 gallon tank).



Currently I have basically an on/off selector in the line going from the aux tank to the main, and I'd like to change this either to just a single pump (if it will not flow when turned off with the gravity pressure behind it) or to my swith in addition to a new pump in line as well.



I know Whitmore is using something (to go the other way, but same idea). I want this fast enough so I can be at 1/2 tank in the main, and turn my pump on and within about 20-30 minutes have it full again... this will make my 900 mile trips home MUCH nicer, as with the 50 gal aux and 35 main, I won't have to stop.



Thanks for any help... part numbers, flow rates, and prices appreciated.



Josh



P. S. Also please include if I can mount this pump underneath the bed (on frame) or if it would go in the bed, say on top of the aux tank (there are many mounting options there).

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Here's what I use for mine...



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It's one of the cheaper Carter pumps - they sell for about $60 at Jegs - had mine in use for over 10 years with no problems...

 

[Chipstien]

Originally posted by Gary - KJ6Q

had mine in use for over 10 years with no problems...

Pretty funny that this pump has lasted 10 years yet we can't get the Lift pump to last one in many cases.

 

[illflem]

Originally posted by Chipstien

Pretty funny that this pump has lasted 10 years yet we can't get the Lift pump to last one in many cases.

A couple of factors here.

1) Gary's pump is basically pumping downhill with a little pressure on the suction side and very little on the output side.

2) The transfer pump isn't on all the time. I'll bet your 24 valve lift pump will run more in 5000 miles than Gary's transfer pump did in 10 years.

 

[snowracer69]

Gary,



It looks like you are running an on/off silenoid/switch before the pump (like I want to do with mine). Is this because the pump will free flow when not turned on? Also, how do you have the wiring run? Switch in the cab turns on both the switch AND the pump? I'm just looking for more details... also looks like it's mounted to the bottom of the bed? How long does it take to re-fill your main tank?



Thanks, Josh

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

YUP - Bill's right - very low duty cycle on the transfer pump - hardly any backpressure, and only runs about 1/2 hour at a time or less - the time it takes to pump about 25 gallons or so from one tank to another...



The valve pictured is to prevent siphon action from allowing fuel to continue to flow even after the transfer pump is switched off, which would then overflow the main tank - it's wired in parallel with the pump - there's a switch inside the cab to turn the pump on, and a large flashing LED mounted on the steering column to keep me alert that fuel is being transferred - and the whole setup is wired so that it switches off with the ignition, so I won't forget, and go off from the truck while fuel is still being pumped... Don't ask why I did all that...

 

[snowracer69]

Well, that's what I'm looking for then... sounds just like what I need. I already have a switch in the cab, and the LED to show it's on too (probably shouldn't ask me why that is either). Any idea on the part number for that pump, or should I just look around and find one that looks like it will match my needs?



Thanks, Josh.

 

[snowracer69]

Is this it?

Looking at the one on the bottom of this page:

Carter Pumps at Jegs



4-6 PSI at 72 GPH... . that sound about right for what I want, or maybe the one above it at 6-8 PSI?



Sorry for being so persistent... wanna get this right the first time.



Josh

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Either one will work fine - I think mine is 4-6 psi range... Doesn't take much in this service...

 

[Hootguy]

You can also use a fuel pump from most carburated last model sportbike,,,they all are low pressure,,,,usually cheap from the wreckers,,as they they dont wear,,take about 1/2 hour for about half a tank... but you get used to timming it. .

I have used the same one for 4 years now,,,works great. .

I probalby still have a few kickin around from my different race bikes... dont use one from an injected bike,,too high pressure. .

I also switched to the ignition,,,i know why Gary di that too,,,,i found out the hard way,,there is a certain spot of grass in the Daytona International Speedway infield that wont grow for the next 20 years,,OOPPS. .

 

[snowracer69]

Gary,



I PM'd you a question about your setup



Josh

 

[JWhitcomb]

Snow, just curious here but that upper tank won't drain down into the lower fast enough to keep up with CTD consumption while running down the road??? I can see that it would be a safety concern to leave the valve open while in operation.

 

[snowracer69]

Nope!



My setup is almost identical to Gary's right now, minus the pump and filter (so, I've got the silenoid valve ) and the fuel enters the main tank (at least on mine, and looks to be the same on Gary's) in the filler neck. The way the guy who installed mine did it, the line kind of droops and so it has to go back up to get to the neck, making it not flow very well, and, after 6 hours + of driving, I'm using more fuel then is going into the tank. My drive home takes 13. 5 hours, which means (averaging 17-18 mpg) I have to stop twice to fill up (cause I'm a pilot and I like to fly on the top halfs of my tanks, so I drive that way too). I'm trying to get away from this, as with 85 gallons on-board, I should be able to make it with plenty to spare (which I can if all the fuel in the aux will go to the main). I normally top off the aux tank and the main, then as soon as I start moving the aux get's turned on. I can go about 500 miles on little over 1/2 tank (main one) that way, but then there's not really enough in the aux to make it feed fast enough, and the bottom half of the main goes fast.



I'm just trying to make a better mousetrap for myself... who knows, when I tear it apart this weekend I might find that something is wrong with the gravity system (plugged or something).



Thanks again for the help. Josh



(PS, will post pics when done)

 

[DKasper]

Hi Guys,

This is exactly what I need to do this weekend! Great information, I have already purchased a pump, but had not thought about installing a solenoid -- obviously that is pretty important.



My question is, where do you go for the solenoid/valve setup? I haven't used one of those before.



Thank you!



Dave

'93 D350

'82 Ford F250 w/Deutz F5L912

 

[snowracer69]

Dave,



Mine is basically a "2 in - 1 out" setup, where it switches between what should be two inputs, BUT, I only have one input connected, and the other plugged, so it makes it into an on/off switch. Gary's looks to be of the same type from his picture. I'm sure Napa or the likes carrys them, but I'm not sure where mine came from (I didn't do the original install). Good luck on the install... I will be doing mine tomorrow afternoon or Saturday morning.



Later, Josh



P. S. The reasoning behind the silenoid is because the fuel will free-flow through the pump otherwise, in turn having a gravity system and your tank WILL overfill and dump lots of fuel (which =$$$) on the ground. As I said before, don't ask how I know that

 

[Joe G.]

My system is similar to Gary's. I got the pump and valve from JC Whitney. My tank is a 50 gallon savaged from a GMC dump truck. It has a gauge float so I installed a fuel gauge from Westach. I also found out that I needed a bright red LED to help with my CRS condition.

 

[Hootguy]

A friend i know who haul camping trailers all over for people...

simply has a big round saddle tank from a highway tractor,,,,big sucker,,and all he did was grvity feed it into his main tank,,,no valve nothin,,,he says as long as the trucks fuel cap is on tight,,no fuel dumps out,,,

This guy probably has the highest mileage 97 Dodge Cummins at 1 million 160,000 k. ,,he's been around the clock and is starting again... . so i guess his system must be working. .

 

[JWhitcomb]

Gary, I have been looking for your past post where you described and pictured your pusher pump/check valve system. Could you post the pointer?

Thanks

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Here ya go - enjoy!



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...?s=&threadid=59880&highlight=latest+evolution



No hiccups or burps to date... None on the truck or pusher, either...

 

[snowracer69]

Here's the pictures of my new setup... only took about 2 hours to do, but as always, I'm pretty slow at that kinda stuff and like to get it right the first time, so I take my time and do it right once. Oh, filter is on the wrong side, and as you can see, there's crap in the tank. When I disconnected the hose from my aux to the valve, it was completely full of small metal flakes (wish I'd had a camera then). I think that was a major contributor to my poor gravity feeding. I'm not sure if the stuff in the tank is from the tank itself, or a bad load of diesel from an old farm tank at home (which is where it is almost always filled from). I will remove it this summer and find out which though... luckily the valve was keeping most if not all of it back. I will be putting in a second filter, before the valve, but need the tank 100% empty before doing this. It still has diesel in it now, I just don't know how much (Have already moved 10+ gallons and I thought it was empty before).



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