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Fuel vent install: option bed removal?

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Got the vent kit and have been thinking instead of dropping the tank why not just lift the bed off?

Just built a new shop and installed a two post lift so lifting the bed should be easy.

Anyone else take this approach?
 
I just did my vent kit this weekend. I don't have a lift, so the truck was on the ground. I needed help from a friend since I couldn't get both of my hands on the fuel line disconnects. It took longer than I planed for, but was still an easy job.



Your idea about pulling the bed off sounds interesting. While I was under my truck though I never looked to see how difficult it would be.
 
I dropped the tank with about 1/4 in it. Just make sure to not take the nuts all the way off the tank straps until all the lines and plugs are dissconnected (they are long studs in the frame so if you loosen them it will give you some room to work with) then just drop it. Im only about 160 lbs and I have dropped/reinstalled it twice by myself, its about a 30 min job alltogether.
 
I've pulled off many beds, and I can tell you from my point of view that I think it's a lot easier to drop a tank, not to mention all the things that can go wrong lifting the bed (e. g. , scratching the bed on the cab, bumper, fuel filler neck, etc. ). No thanks! If I were to do the mod, I'd pull the tank.
 
This is kind of embarrassing, guess I'm the idiot of the bunch, but I had all kinds of problems installing mine. Let me say first, I'm 6'5" with monster hands and that doesn't go to well with trying to squeeze them between the tank and the body to disconnect the quick disconnects and the plug. I broke both hoses by kinking them, broke a quick disconnect at the inlet of the fuel pump, broke the lock on the electrical plug. you name it I did it. I replaced both hoses with regular fuel line and clamped it, much much easier in my opinion then working with those stupid disconnects. The electrical connector is pluged in and seems tight so I think I'm ok there. I had to re-drill the fuel pump connector and sleeve a fitting in there, no leaks after 10,000 or so miles so I guess I'm good. At first I said, I'll never do this again, but I'll tell you after 250,000 miles on my last Dodge and fighting that 5 gallon top off. It's nice to just fill up. Do it again? Apsolutly!
 
I have done it both ways. On mine I dropped the tank. The fittings can be a real PIA and you are working blind most of the time. It was the dead of winter here in Colorado but I finally got it done.



Went out to Washington and we did my buddies 03. He has a fork-lift and we decided to pull the bed. Sawed up a couple of 2x6" pieces to fit under the top rail and lifted her off. 6 bolts (locktited, get a big wrench) and a ground strap up front. Oh, unplug the lights. You have great access to top of the tank and the fittings are much easier.



If I had a way to get the bed in the air, I would do it that way again. But a lift, you can get under it easy. I dunno. Look inside the fender well and see if you can pop the lines. If they come off easy, go for it! You will love the difference in fillup. Good luck.
 
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Dropping the tank is easy

I installed my vent kit about a month ago by dropping the tank. Did the whole job myself and I'm not a very big guy. I ran the tank down to just under 1/4 and syphoned as much as I could into "Jerry" cans (roughly 7 gal. ). I have long slim fingers and had no troubles with the fuel line connections or the electrical connection. The tank just misses the edge of the bed when coming out, and reinstalling I tipped the tank on it's side and righted it once it was under the truck. The whole job took a little over an hour, I took my time not to rush or break anything. Good luck on whatever your decision. Just my . 02
 
I game up installing mine. I'm 6'2" and a big ole boy and couldn't get my hands in those small spots. I broke a connector, but it seems to stay put. A buddy of mine who put in the kit said he'd give me a hand - I think I'll need both.
 
Sounds like dropping it may be the best idea, two bolts easier than all the bed bolts, filler neck, bumper, wiring harness and realigning bed when done.

Will just run it until the light comes on and put on lift, drop tank on cart and wheel out to work on.

While I at it probably should clean out the tank if there is any crud in it.

As a side note kit did not come with instructions, noticed the pipe plug on the end of the hose, how does this vent?

Thinking of installing a rollover vent at the end.

Anyone do this?
 
So that means that I should wait until I have the Glacier pump, big line and filter kits so that I can do the tank drop just once. :) I have been procastinating on installing the vent kit that is buried somewhere in the garage. :(



Okay, lets get our stories straight for the wifey's/Significant others;



I HAVE to get the filter kit to protect the injectors once the low sulfur diesel is released due to it's cleansing characteristics and resulting particle suspension in the fuel system. And I need the pump so that I don't starve the CP3 of fuel. Both will help in averting costly repairs in the future. I will also be saving time by dropping the tank only once so that I can install the vent kit which will save time at the pump. All this is to be done so that I will have more time to spend with you.



Edits/comments are welcome. A high probability of success is desired. Groveling is only acceptable as long as the outcome is favorable. :-laf
 
Pullin the tank isnt bad if its darn near empty... An ATV jack would have been REALLY nice putting that sucker back up in the air. I did it by myself in 1hr. Using a ziptie or string to get the fuel line disconnects off makes it a LOT easier than trying to do it by hand.
 
Did mine today- the fuel disconnects were easy- one hand operation- did it with my left hand too! If you have the wheel well liners, remove them and drop tank a little (just back the nuts almost all the way off) Just squeeze the plastic pawls in a liitle and pull gently back at the same time they slip off easy- too easy methinks. The plastic pawls must be lined up with the slots in the fuel line for reinstallation. I put the bulkhead fitting in the 1-2 o'clock position (when viewing tank from above birds eye view) in relation the the small factory vent tube (the 1/4" one dunno WTH its for other than getting dirt in the tank) This area on the 2006 appeared much flatter (to get a better seal with the washers) than the suggested position at 10-11 o'clock. ON my 2006 tank it appeared impossible to get a good seal on the rounded rAISED portion.



I was able to put in 36. 5 gallons with no waiting/burping, I estimate I had just under 1 gallon gallon in the tank for a nice quick fill max capacity of about 37 gallons- SWEET deal- best mod I've ever done!



DO THE VENT KIT MOD! ITs Worth it!
 
vent kit: do it!

To anyone on the fence over the vent kit mod, I highly recomend you do it! It'll be the best 36. 00 you'll ever spend! I just filled up at a Flying J with the big diesel pumps in under 2 minutes and I got 37 gallons in her. I was able to use the second "click" on the hold open thingamajig on the pump handle, I used to only able to use the first (lowest) click and the nozzle had to be situated just so in order to keep it from clicking off. Now I don't annoy the truckers tryiing to get those last 3 gallons in the truck for 10 minutes!
 
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