Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Several people have asked about my Kelderman setup in my long bed Mega Cab thread so I decided to start another thread about the suspension. Copy/Paste from other thread:
The front kit is a fairly easy install, I did it myself in my shop, but I do have a lift and a pretty good set of tools and mechanical knowledge. The rear is an entirely different story. It requires cutting off existing spring mounts, welding on new mounts, welding a mount for the track bar, and some custom fab work that always seems to crop up. Although you don't need to remove the bed, it will be MUCH easier to do so. The air compressor / air dryer assembly is quite large as well and absolutely will not fit anywhere with the brackets as they send them. We customized the brackets some and got it to mount outside of the frame beneath the passenger floorboard. The air dryer hangs lower than I like, It's basically about as low as the front suspension arm, but the only other option would be an even more custom bracket off of the frame behind the cab where there is more room to have it tucked up closer to the bed floor. This will only work if you have a long bed, on a short bed not a chance since the spring hanger is only a few inches back from the cab.
I custom mounted the switches and low air warning light in the little removable panel right above the E-brake release and put on a new decal I had Kelderman send me. I have a feeling Kelderman is going to start mounting their switches the same way after they see it. Took less than 10 minutes to do and really turned out nice.
Unless you have a really heavy bumper winch combo or a snowplow, etc. I'd say it's definitely not worth it to do the front alone. I put about 500 miles on it that way before having the rear installed and it really was a negligible difference in ride quality. I'm sure it was better, but the rear end makes the dang truck so rough it over shadows any front end improvement. One thing to also keep in mind which I wasn't happy about it is it WILL lift the front of your truck about 1.5-2" even though it is labeled as stock height. When I called and asked them about it they told me, "yeah, it works like a leveling kit" I pointed out it says stock height and they said, "nope, on the '13 and newer its a lift" If you only put enough air in them to prevent it from being that much of a lift, they will bottom out quite often as it only leaves a small amount of travel. I'm running mine about 1/2" lower than the recommended height and everything seems to be fine. My reasoning for not lifting it is so I can fit under my 5th wheel without having to tow it nose high.
The ride is definitely better, no doubt about it. The front end was a little "bouncy" till I turned up the shocks (Rancho 9000 adjustables) now it's pretty nice. I haven't hauled anything with it yet, so I can't comment on it loaded but I would imagine it will be even better. It's also really cool being able to just flip a switch and lower the rear 3-4" to back under a trailer, then flip the switch and lift it back up. I'm really looking forward to that vs. cranking the jacks on my 42' gooseneck loaded with 14,000lbs on the deck. One thing about lowering it however is the rear air bags are HUGE, half again bigger than any helper air bag you've seen and they also have a 3/4" line running to an accumulator tank (ping tank) on each side which looks to be about a gallon or so in size. Point being when you dump the bags, you are dumping about 3-4 gallons of air. The 2.5 gallon tank the system keeps filled doesn't have enough volume to lift the truck more than about half way until the compressor has had enough time to bring everything back up to pressure. Lowering the truck takes 10-15 seconds, raising it probably 45 seconds to a minute (haven't timed it) which really isn't a big deal if you are hooking up trailer lights, safety chains, etc. But might be a pain if you simply dropped it to put something in the back and then raise it back up before driving away. I'm probably going to add a second 2.5 gallon tank to the system since I'm thinking about adding some air horns as well
Even with my lift, tools and ability, I'll probably take my next truck to Kelderman themselves. I consider myself an "average ability" welder, and I don't have a plasma cutter so it would be working with a cut off wheel and grinder. Given the importance of the suspension, I'll happily pay to have it installed. And If I have to pay anyway, might as well go to the source and know that it will be done perfect. I had to finish a few things and correct a few things the guys who stretched my truck did wrong after I got it home and up on the lift.
Feel free to ask me any more questions about the suspension or the stretch, happy to help
The front kit is a fairly easy install, I did it myself in my shop, but I do have a lift and a pretty good set of tools and mechanical knowledge. The rear is an entirely different story. It requires cutting off existing spring mounts, welding on new mounts, welding a mount for the track bar, and some custom fab work that always seems to crop up. Although you don't need to remove the bed, it will be MUCH easier to do so. The air compressor / air dryer assembly is quite large as well and absolutely will not fit anywhere with the brackets as they send them. We customized the brackets some and got it to mount outside of the frame beneath the passenger floorboard. The air dryer hangs lower than I like, It's basically about as low as the front suspension arm, but the only other option would be an even more custom bracket off of the frame behind the cab where there is more room to have it tucked up closer to the bed floor. This will only work if you have a long bed, on a short bed not a chance since the spring hanger is only a few inches back from the cab.
I custom mounted the switches and low air warning light in the little removable panel right above the E-brake release and put on a new decal I had Kelderman send me. I have a feeling Kelderman is going to start mounting their switches the same way after they see it. Took less than 10 minutes to do and really turned out nice.
Unless you have a really heavy bumper winch combo or a snowplow, etc. I'd say it's definitely not worth it to do the front alone. I put about 500 miles on it that way before having the rear installed and it really was a negligible difference in ride quality. I'm sure it was better, but the rear end makes the dang truck so rough it over shadows any front end improvement. One thing to also keep in mind which I wasn't happy about it is it WILL lift the front of your truck about 1.5-2" even though it is labeled as stock height. When I called and asked them about it they told me, "yeah, it works like a leveling kit" I pointed out it says stock height and they said, "nope, on the '13 and newer its a lift" If you only put enough air in them to prevent it from being that much of a lift, they will bottom out quite often as it only leaves a small amount of travel. I'm running mine about 1/2" lower than the recommended height and everything seems to be fine. My reasoning for not lifting it is so I can fit under my 5th wheel without having to tow it nose high.
The ride is definitely better, no doubt about it. The front end was a little "bouncy" till I turned up the shocks (Rancho 9000 adjustables) now it's pretty nice. I haven't hauled anything with it yet, so I can't comment on it loaded but I would imagine it will be even better. It's also really cool being able to just flip a switch and lower the rear 3-4" to back under a trailer, then flip the switch and lift it back up. I'm really looking forward to that vs. cranking the jacks on my 42' gooseneck loaded with 14,000lbs on the deck. One thing about lowering it however is the rear air bags are HUGE, half again bigger than any helper air bag you've seen and they also have a 3/4" line running to an accumulator tank (ping tank) on each side which looks to be about a gallon or so in size. Point being when you dump the bags, you are dumping about 3-4 gallons of air. The 2.5 gallon tank the system keeps filled doesn't have enough volume to lift the truck more than about half way until the compressor has had enough time to bring everything back up to pressure. Lowering the truck takes 10-15 seconds, raising it probably 45 seconds to a minute (haven't timed it) which really isn't a big deal if you are hooking up trailer lights, safety chains, etc. But might be a pain if you simply dropped it to put something in the back and then raise it back up before driving away. I'm probably going to add a second 2.5 gallon tank to the system since I'm thinking about adding some air horns as well
Even with my lift, tools and ability, I'll probably take my next truck to Kelderman themselves. I consider myself an "average ability" welder, and I don't have a plasma cutter so it would be working with a cut off wheel and grinder. Given the importance of the suspension, I'll happily pay to have it installed. And If I have to pay anyway, might as well go to the source and know that it will be done perfect. I had to finish a few things and correct a few things the guys who stretched my truck did wrong after I got it home and up on the lift.
Feel free to ask me any more questions about the suspension or the stretch, happy to help
