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Fumes In Cab

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My Dodge Ram3500 4. 5 has fumes getting in the cab, when the AC Or Heater is set for outside Air, as I set in traffic or at idle. I just read in the Trailer Life November Issue that the 2003, and 2004 was having this problem also, and there are some TSB out to correct the problem, for the 4. 5 models. Has anyone had the TSB done and what are the TSB numbers to correct this. Is pumping out what seem to be crankcase fumes, or exhaust fumes. Don't know which, as this is the HO with the converter.
 
I was about to start a thread on this to see if it was still a problem on the new trucks and I guess it is.



Dodge’s had a TSB years ago that states this is a normal condition (which it is) caused by the oil which is emitted by the crankcase breather and sells an odorizer to add to your engine when a oil change is performed that supposedly gives it a nice lemon fragrance. Lovely huh, just what we all need. Wouldn’t it be great if they had one for the fuel too so that would smell like roses or what ever other great fragrance they came up with? How about chocolate? Or maybe beer?





I have a ‘04 with 20,000 miles now and I had fumes when new too. A lot if it is the coating they spray on the engine when new that will burn off in time and some comes from the crankcase breather especially after an oil change. Running synthetic oil (only after toughly broken in) helps tremendously.



The real problem however was accurately diagnosed by Dan Rounsevell in his PDF. I just did the fix on my truck even though odors aren’t a problem anymore because I plan on keeping it a long time like my previous truck and don’t care for engine compartment fumes migrating into the cab if I can help it. Extending breather hoses is more like a band aid approach in my opinion.



The lower holes he identified are the main culprit as they lead straight to the engine compartment and can be plugged with Mopar part number 55276332AA (total of 2 required at about $1. 20 each) as shown in his picture on the passenger side (my truck was missing them on both sides). This part acts as a one way flapper valve and will let tons of water flow out unobstructed but seals if air pressure inside the plenum is lower than outside thus preventing engine air from entering. The one on the passenger side is probably more important than the driver side because the intake for the heater box is on that side but both should be plugged (especially at $1. 20 each). Try shining a small flashlight thru these holes and see where the light leads.



The upper holes should be taped as Dan Rounsevell did. That cavity leads across the top fender edge. When you open your hood you can see holes between the fender bolts that will allow engine compartment air in as well. (I could not find a plug thru Dodge for this hole).



Removing the cowl was a little tricky. It is two pieces and initially I tried to take them out separately from the sides with no luck. Do not try to separate these parts. The way that worked for me was standing on the bumper jockey it around in one piece and bend a little in the center and pull it straight out towards the front of the truck.



P. S. my truck was also missing the body plugs on the inboard side of the doors sills.
 
This is a problem with my truck also. I'm really getting p/o'ed about it also. I have an inquiry into DC about it, but have not yet received a reply. I, along with others, filed a safetly complaint with NHTSA. My wife can't ride with me because it makes her sick. If you want to file a complaint, you can easily submit one at:



Vehicle Owners | Safercar -- National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)



I figured it was worth my time. It took about 5 minutes and if they get enough complaints, maybe they'll make DC do something about it. This is the most expensive truck I've ever purchased and the ONLY one I've ever had this problem with.



There is a very active 9 page thread on this topic here:



I contacted the Road Safety Division of the Canadian Transportation Board. - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums



Let's make them do something about this crap!
 
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Tri Guy said:
The real problem however was accurately diagnosed by Dan Rounsevell in his PDF. Extending breather hoses is more like a band aid approach in my opinion.
My thoughts exactly because the intake for the HVAC system is at the wipers and not in the engine compartment.



When you are in traffic the big vistronic fan can do a pretty good job of pulling in dangerous CO levels into the engine compartment from a poorly tune vehicle in front of you.



The lower holes he identified are the main culprit as they lead straight to the engine compartment and can be plugged with Mopar part number 55276332AA (total of 2 required at about $1. 20 each)

Thanks for taking time to post those part numbers.
 
I thought the part number was 55276332AB. I'm looking at a picture of the part now and that's the number. Does anybody know if the final character of A or B makes any difference? I ordered these plugs yesterday.
 
Extend the breather hose that fixes it better than plugging the fresh air cowl.



I did it over a year ago and smell has never returned... ... . Don't get excited about Dodge fixing this problem... ..... they just make it smell Lemon Fresh.





Both repairs will run you about 20 bucks in small parts ... . with diesel at 2. 47 a gallon I can hardly drive to a dealer and back for that money :{
 
This is why I love the Forums so much. I will be ordering the "scuppers" tomorrow when I have the truck in for servicing the broken electric door lock.
 
I agree

ttreibel said:
Extend the breather hose that fixes it better than plugging the fresh air cowl.



I did it over a year ago and smell has never returned... ... . Don't get excited about Dodge fixing this problem... ..... they just make it smell Lemon Fresh.





Both repairs will run you about 20 bucks in small parts ... . with diesel at 2. 47 a gallon I can hardly drive to a dealer and back for that money :{





I agree. . with it being a problem for so many years, Dodge obviously isn't interested in fixing it, and running the hoses is so simple. Not wishing to offend, but I disagree with characterizing the hose extension as a band-aid approach. Mine is there to stay, works, and didn't involve having to disassemble anything.
 
Agreed

I live in Fairbanks Alaska and long idle times are a must. Starting at 50 below i have to let the truck warm up atleast 20 min to get warm with high idle. I have been getting longer idle times and the interior smells horrible. Shopping at these clod temps means leaving the truck on. I have two ittle ones that I do not want sitting in this exhaust. This is also the most expensive truck that I have ever owned and you think that smoething as easy to fix as this would be covered. Just thought that I would throw my 1 cent in. I will hope for the TSB.
 
The AA part can still be ordered however the AB is an updated version. For those that extended the vent tube remember that fix cures just the odor from the vent tube and doesn't address engine bay and under cab air getting into the HVAC system. If you develop an exhaust leak you may not notice as CO is odorless.
 
I agree, this issue is discussed regularly which is fine cuz every new owner goes through it but it would be nice to point to that spot for the fix.
 
Sure... just do a little write up on the fix and submit it to that forum. I think it would be a good idea to include the PDF link and the part numbers for the lower plates.
 
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