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***G-56 Clutch and Pedal Characteristics***

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i have found that i get the same issuse in gear. but i also did what you said if you raise the rpm before trying to put it in gear from a stop all is good.



all i can say is this clutch has been very good to me for the time that i have had it. is still holding a huge amount of power more than it has been rated for, and is still a great driving clutch. the only way im letting go of this clutch is for the new dual disc.
 
Thanks RoberP. I guess i just need to quit stressing and allow it some time to properly seat. I was just freakin out about not being able to get my truck into reverse. Hopefully this will heal itself.
 
Thanks RoberP. I guess i just need to quit stressing and allow it some time to properly seat. I was just freakin out about not being able to get my truck into reverse. Hopefully this will heal itself.



i have never had to shut my truck off to get it in reverse at all since the new hydraulics. the rest of it i can handle just fine. and just knowing the simple fact that if something does happen to it i know peter will take care of me.
 
Get a coarse nut. typical nut that would spin on easily to the master cylinder shaft. tighten it up. your engagement point will be closer to the top of the peddle travel, but you'll have smooth easy shifts.



prior to this trick, the adjustment I made, would come undone in 15 minutes of city traffic.
 
Get a coarse nut. typical nut that would spin on easily to the master cylinder shaft. tighten it up. your engagement point will be closer to the top of the peddle travel, but you'll have smooth easy shifts.



prior to this trick, the adjustment I made, would come undone in 15 minutes of city traffic.



i have tried adjusting mine all the way both ways and everywhere in between but mine stays the same. i have found that if you pop the throttle one time just every so slightly just enough to get the rpms to get to about 1000 it will fall into gear from a stop with ease. i know that with the dual mass flywheels the rpms were raised to make life easier on the flywheel. now with the single mass conversion, i am going to adjust my rpm down tomorrow to see if it changes. if it doesnt i will take it alittle higher and see if it changes. its worth a shot. i will post my findings.
 
Get a coarse nut. typical nut that would spin on easily to the master cylinder shaft. tighten it up. your engagement point will be closer to the top of the peddle travel, but you'll have smooth easy shifts.



prior to this trick, the adjustment I made, would come undone in 15 minutes of city traffic





Hey JasonCzerak,

Could you send me a picture or a generic drawing of what you are talking about with the coarse nut? I think I understand what you are talking about, but before tearing up a new pedal assembly I want to make sure that I know exactly what you are trying to explain and accomplish. Do you have the adjustable assembly or the regular?
 
ROrtiz said:
Hey JasonCzerak,

Could you send me a picture or a generic drawing of what you are talking about with the coarse nut? I think I understand what you are talking about, but before tearing up a new pedal assembly I want to make sure that I know exactly what you are trying to explain and accomplish. Do you have the adjustable assembly or the regular?





I have the adjustable.



If you spin the eye hook OFF of the rod that goes into the master cylinder, then tread on a coarse nut on that rod (I had one in my spare nut and bolt bucket). then thread the eye hook back on the rod and STOP at the nut.



that's how mine is adjusted and have not "un-adjusted" it self and seems to be the perfect amount of peddle throw. the clutch engages about 3/4 up and you can shift with half clutch throws with EASE.
 
See, i know what "eye hook" you are talking about. Mine has one, but i don't think that my pedal is the adjustable one.
 
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