g56 clutch pedal - to start truck, pedal pressure...

[nukegm]

comrades 2018 2500 tradesman

drove from den to chicago . on the way, to be able to start truck, i have to depress the clutch pedal harder and harder with each start. its to the point where it feels like the floor will dent now.

no floor mat, by the way. carpet delete.

im afraid i will get stranded not being able to start truck at a gas station in the boonies on the way back to denver.

anyone know where the saftey switch is? or how to jump it? or if there even is one.....i cannot look now, as it is pouring rain and have no garage access. my whole point of oredering a g56 equipped truck was to reduce transmission issues. so far truck was at dealer for 29 days for 3 hydro units and a clutch.

i guess i figured wrong

good news is pop is doing well. 82nd birthday.



thanks comrades!

cheers! chris

 

[NIsaacs]

It should be about the same as the older trucks. If so, it will be on the push rod from the peddle to the master cylinder. Unplug the power off the switch and jumper the pigtail, should just be two terminals. Not the switch pigtail, but the power wire coming to it.

 

[nukegm]

It should be about the same as the older trucks. If so, it will be on the push rod from the peddle to the master cylinder. Unplug the power off the switch and jumper the pigtail, should just be two terminals. Not the switch pigtail, but the power wire coming to it.

View attachment 116064 View attachment 116065

comrade nisaacs - a lifesaver reply. thank you sincerely ! cheers, chris

 

[jhenderson]

I used a paper clip on my 3rd gen.

 

[JohnM45]

NukeGM - glad your dad is doing well!

Not many manual transmission trucks out there anymore. Toyota Tacoma still offers one and they still have a button on the dashboard to bypass the safety switch on the clutch pedal. It sure would be nice if our trucks had this.

I have the upfitter switches on my G56 Tradesman...I wonder how tough it would be to "build" a bypass switch - could even use the momentary feature on the switch. Hmm...

 

[Randomrunner12]

You can cut the plug off the switch, tie the wires together and then plug it back in with out the switch being on the rod. then you can start the truck without using clutch pedal and be good to get your home. Rock auto sells the switches for a fair price.

I think i even have a brand new one in my garage that i can send you if you pay shipping. It came with my new South bend hydros but my old one was still good.

 

[jhenderson]

NukeGM - glad your dad is doing well!

Not many manual transmission trucks out there anymore. Toyota Tacoma still offers one and they still have a button on the dashboard to bypass the safety switch on the clutch pedal. It sure would be nice if our trucks had this.

I have the upfitter switches on my G56 Tradesman...I wonder how tough it would be to "build" a bypass switch - could even use the momentary feature on the switch. Hmm...

Upfitter switches are designed to provide 12 volts. The safety switch requires no power, just continuity.

 

[nukegm]

You can cut the plug off the switch, tie the wires together and then plug it back in with out the switch being on the rod. then you can start the truck without using clutch pedal and be good to get your home. Rock auto sells the switches for a fair price.

I think i even have a brand new one in my garage that i can send you if you pay shipping. It came with my new South bend hydros but my old one was still good.

comrade randomrunner, your suggestion will be my plan on the way home in a couple / few days. i have very limited tools in the truck, but a wire stripper and a wire nut or just some tape is all i need for your advice. maybe its just rams dont like chicago. my previous 16 2500 had a transmission software " stroke " when i drove that here few years ago. was at the local dealer for a week before they figured out it was software related. that is the main reason i ordered the 18 with a manual trans. additionally, as i have stated before, i am a caveman too. cheers!

 

[Randomrunner12]

I wish you luck with it nukegm!!!

Just pull the switch off the clutch pedal, there's a white tab the you pinch together, then pull the side with the wires down away from the rod and then slide off. The plug for the wires is behind a bit junkie of wires just below and left of the clutch pedal hole. Use a flat head or one of those trim fastner told to disconnect it from it's mount. It'll have a red safety tab that you will have to loosen before you can unplug.

At this point I cut the wires exactly half way so if I wanted in the future I could solder back together. Now I just carry the plug end with the wires twisted and electric taped in my glove box takes 5 minutes to swap and I'm back on the road.

 

[nukegm]

I wish you luck with it nukegm!!!

Just pull the switch off the clutch pedal, there's a white tab the you pinch together, then pull the side with the wires down away from the rod and then slide off. The plug for the wires is behind a bit junkie of wires just below and left of the clutch pedal hole. Use a flat head or one of those trim fastner told to disconnect it from it's mount. It'll have a red safety tab that you will have to loosen before you can unplug.

At this point I cut the wires exactly half way so if I wanted in the future I could solder back together. Now I just carry the plug end with the wires twisted and electric taped in my glove box takes 5 minutes to swap and I'm back on the road.

THANK YOU SIR! cheers.

 

[Randomrunner12]

No sir here I work for a living. Lol

Helpings my game, Tony's the name hahaha

 

[nukegm]

No sir here I work for a living. Lol

Helpings my game, Tony's the name hahaha

thanks tony. i work too. carpenter. mostly crawl around on peoples floors. just out of my element here in in illinois. cheers! chris

 

[Killgore]

Aha, the infamous clutch interlock switch! Mine started acting up after I took the truck in for the airbag recall. I don't know if the issue was related but when I asked them to look at the problem, two different dealers said for safety reasons and liability they weren't touching it. Baloney! I made a jumper and bought a push button switch and the problem is solved. Now I sit around wondering what else they screwed up?

 

[nukegm]

Aha, the infamous clutch interlock switch! Mine started acting up after I took the truck in for the airbag recall. I don't know if the issue was related but when I asked them to look at the problem, two different dealers said for safety reasons and liability they weren't touching it. Baloney! I made a jumper and bought a push button switch and the problem is solved. Now I sit around wondering what else they screwed up?

so far im very unimpressed with the 18 clutch " system " vs my old 01. 250k on old truck. never needed any hydros, or switches or safety switch. nothing but a clutch itself, which is perfectly normal given the miles. new truck is a shop queen with under 30k on it. with all the recalls ( 4 ) and the 29 days at dealer for clutch, and 3 hydro units, and next time for this silly switch? thats a lot of shop time. i agree with you - the dealer is full of crap telling you they cant touch it. after all, my dealer welded my drag link, which is very much safety related....cheers comrade!

 

[JohnM45]

It seems a bunch of crap the dealer saying they wouldn't touch it. Being able to start any vehicle in gear is something to be very careful with, let alone an 8000 pound, low-geared diesel which will not stall out so easily. Still, no reason a dealer should be a chicken-$hi7 about messing with it.

I had my wife start the truck for me after changing the oil in it the other night. I was sure to caution her to be very certain it was in neutral before letting out the clutch!! Dump the clutch in second gear and damage will be done!!

 

[Newsa]

so far im very unimpressed with the 18 clutch " system " vs my old 01. 250k on old truck. never needed any hydros, or switches or safety switch. nothing but a clutch itself, which is perfectly normal given the miles. new truck is a shop queen with under 30k on it. with all the recalls ( 4 ) and the 29 days at dealer for clutch, and 3 hydro units, and next time for this silly switch? thats a lot of shop time. i agree with you - the dealer is full of crap telling you they cant touch it. after all, my dealer welded my drag link, which is very much safety related....cheers comrade!

After i heard about your ordeal with the clutch last winter, went and bought a hydraulic assembly (single unit with tubes, slave and master cyls/reservoir) and have been carrying it with me. 6 years and just shy of 63,000 miles...... Not a single clutch issue since bought new in sept 2013.

 

[nukegm]

comrade newsa - your spare hydro assembly is bringing you good luck. maybe i should do the same...? back to denver in the early am. i have one of those blue electrical connectors that you put 2 wires into, and push a small piece of metal through the wires to connect them in case the switch on the clutch pedal fails. maybe is should just get some bottles to whizz in and never turn the truck off. LOL. cheers! chris

 

[EricViviano]

Next time I have an issue with our clutch I'm putting in a Phonex Friction solid flywheel conversion. I will need it anyways for the added power my Double R deleted tuning is going to bring =).

 

[nukegm]

so, turns out the switch is sold with the clutch hydro assembly, according to the dealer. 400 plus bucks. the dealer has installed 3 of them at 6000 miles. guess im just going to jump the wires. i have no time to drive 1 hr each way to the dealer and leave for " warranty " repairs. ram could do way better selling the switch individually. suddenly, my old P.O.S. f250 powerjoke doesnt seem like such a piece of.....anymore. cheers comrades!

 

[Randomrunner12]

Google this part number. It's for just the switch. I think you'll have to move all your hard parts from the old switch to the new.

53007944AB