G56 S.B. Clutch upgrade

[photowrite]

I just installed a G56OFEK in my 2011 over this past weekend. I can tell you that it is holding even towing 14K with a Smarty 67JR on #3. I have not heard any growling from the transmission, it is filled (+1 quart) with Redline MT-85.

Kevin

This thread is mostly about clutches but I'll give a x2 for Red Line transmission oils, made just for that purpose, pick your weight preference.

 

[Big_Horn]

Ended up choosing the SDD 3250 (dual Disk) after talking to SBC themselves. Heavier clutch pedal but you get use to it quickly. My fear was slippage with heavy loads. This is the whole reason I swapped clutches. They said that I couldn't go wrong with this set up. I also feared that the rattling I heard was a failing bearing. I initially heard squeaking then the rattle. Turns out the dual clutch naturally rattles.

My thoughts on the SDD 3250:
Heavier Clutch pedal feel, easy to get use to.
Little grabby at launch without a load ie daily driving.
Gear rattle with rpm's less that 1700. Horrible in 5th gear. Super annoying! Sounds like the transmission turned into a can of rocks and you are ripping out all the gears and leaving a trail of them behind.
Clutch plate rattle at stops. You get use to it.
I do find it harder to get into gear after stopping. Mostly in Reverse, and not so much in 2nd. Sometimes I feel like I'm going to bust something. Double clutching doesn't work. what I did find that does is roll the truck just a smidge and she goes in easier. Not sure if this is natural or fixable.

Now with towing, great feel. no fear of slipping and there is a sense of confidence that all the engine power is put to the ground. I just got back from towing my RV (5k) to AZ for the race. I was able to power through all the pass's in no less that 5th gear. Made the same trip in February and had to feather the throttle due to slippage.
I would like to say that I made the smarter move by getting the Dual clutch vs the single but I'm not 100% more like 85%. I have driven a single clutch set up and it seamed smoother and heard that that rig also has the gear rattle. IDK.

 

[RVTRKN]

Glad to hear it's good to go, yes the trans is nosier with the DD-3250 and is why I had my G56 inspected first. 1st & reverse are the problems getting in gear, 1st gear you have to come to a complete stop, for reverse, I let the clutch slightly out and reverse drops in with out any grinding. For mine 3rd and 4th have the marbles below 1500 RPM, which sucks because 3rd gear is the perfect gear to round corners, but I'm now slowing down and go to 2nd to keep RPM's above 1500.

 

[HHhuntitall]

IF you're not going to be asking the programmers for all they've got, I'd go with the OKHD. The composition of the clutch material will mitigate the grabbing issue, as well as the rusting issue which causes some problems mentioned above. The area you live in has wild temp swings, and that will have less effect on the OKHK than the OFEK. If you're still not convinced, just give SBC a call. They'll help you out, and offer some recommendations for you.

 

[Big_Horn]

Update: been a little over a year now with the new clutch. IMO she's a big clutch. Little cumbersome with daily driving. I relearned how to drive, by feathering with shifts. 3 trips to Arizona while pulling the RV with no problems. Pulls any hill with ease. New issue though. About 6-8 months in I noticed it was getting harder to shift into gear from a standstill. Now, it is impossible. I have to; at a standstill, clutch in, shift into 3rd or higher, then into 1st or second. There is no way it will go into the lower gear without doing this. And while driving, its a little "crunchy" as I change gears. I called the power shop in Enumclaw the folks who installed the clutch. They gave me the run around. I guess $3200 is not enough money to get a product/installation guarantee. IMO very rude and I question my return. South Bend said that it could be a failing slave cylinder or impute shaft bearing. I have not done the rule out yet.

I'm reaching out to the community. If its the slave cylinder then that's pretty easy to fix. My fear is that the bearing is bad and needs to be replaced. Where should I go for the repair? Wa state, Olympia, Tacoma, Seattle area. Traveling is not out of the question. Should I just rebuild the transmission? What are the costs involved?

 

[RVTRKN]

My input shaft has loosened up to a point, if I let clutch engage slowly in neutral, it will center the shaft and quieten the noise and mine shifts OK. What oil are you using? Have you had someone engage the clutch and watch the level in the master cylinder? If the seals are leaking, keeping it engaged, the level will slowly, or quickly, rise in the reservoir, if it's the master cylinder. Or the reservoir level will not change, but that condition would not allow any operation. From what you describe, I'd suspect synchro's as a possible issue, as I experimented with some heavier oils, I noticed golden flakes indicating the oil wasn't protecting the brass components. Unfortunately you'll probably have to remove trans and inspect components, good luck and keep us posted.

 

[photowrite]

Oil

Sorry you are having difficulties with your new clutch. I also question what oil is in the gearbox, possibly something less than ideal for the synchronizers and shifting? Unless you have a favorite lube, again I'll suggest Red Line MTL, or MT-90.

Not saying you don't have a lager problem, or a couple of contributing issues that are part of the symptom(s), but I'll often use the technique you describe to slow down the gears and make starting from a stop easier—clutch in, wait a moment, shift to 3 or 4, then to first/low or second. This was more helpful if not necessary on the older trannys without a synchro low gear.

I hope you can improve your situation, and for not too much money. I have no experience operating a dual-disc clutch but it's also clear to me that I don't want or need one. When the OE dual-mass flywheel fails [likely before the clutch disc] I'll upgrade to a similar to stock clutch with single-mass flywheel, as retraining drivability is critical.

 

[Regcabguy]

Concerning fluid I'm real pleased with Amsoil 75-90 MTG.
Formerly I used the Delvac Amsoil 5-30 synchromesh combo for 25k. The MTG shifts slicker and reduces gear noise as well as the Delvac combo.

 

[Big_Horn]

Problem started before I changed the Amsoil. Now using Delvac 50 as recommended. Still crappy shifting. Wanted some professional shop to take a look at it... any ideas?

 

[wcjp]

Have you contacted Rip at Sourceautomotive.biz?

 

[Big_Horn]

Have you contacted Rip at Sourceautomotive.biz?

No, I guess I should. Don't know anything about him...