Garrett Powermax Stage 2 GT3782R Install/Review

[Shadrach]

It's defiantly an HY35W type D. I looked it up in Cummins QuickServe to verify it. My engine was build in Nov of 02.

Yes I have an 08 "AE" version G56 in my 03. I put it in. I changed the trans adapter on the back of the engine, added a South Bend clutch and hyd cyl, used the proper transmission mount and shifter, boot and knob . I had to modify the driveshaft lengths. At regular highway speed of 110km per hour ( 68 mph ) I am doing about 2050 RPM, which I find to be just right when towing. Shad

 

[AH64ID]

It's defiantly an HY35W type D. I looked it up in Cummins QuickServe to verify it. My engine was build in Nov of 02.

Interesting, never heard of anything but an HE341 in a early CR.

EDIT: I just read that HE341 = HY35W type D.

 

[Shadrach]

So we are both correct I ordered my Garrett today Oo. Now I have to sell some excess parts to pay for it. Shad

 

[AH64ID]

Your going to love it!

 

[Shadrach]

I found a used manifold similar to yours AH641D. Do you think its worth changing it, as now would be the time to do it of course? Shad

 

[AH64ID]

I think so. The OEM one is very restrictive for #4.

#ad

 

[Shadrach]

Thanks . I didn't realize it was that bad. Do you by chance have a picture of the difference in the ports? Shad

 

[mwilson]

I think so. The OEM one is very restrictive for #4.



#ad

That's an interesting comparison. Really brings it home.



I have looked at mine at lot and never even took the time to think about the exhaust flow for #4 having to exit along with #5 & #6 at the rear of the split.



Thanks.



Mike.

 

[rscurtis]

Where it really comes up short is that 4 and 5 are connected to 6 with a relatively small hole.

 

[CKESSEL]

When you get your turbo, I got a Garrett too, check out all the parts listed in the instructions. Mine was missing the 90* elbow. Turbo Resource, awesome company BTW, sent one to me. They told me that Garrett has an issue with not including all the parts. I'm glad I purchased it from them and inventoried parts before starting the swap. Did so because of the positive feedback in the TDR and forums. Also the instructions for the water pipes blow. I thought I had incorrect pipes until I looked back at the begining of this thread. I'm going to finish up the swap today after I get the Holset out. Next weekend, I'll be installing the injectors from Industrial Injection. Was going to try that this weekend but started late and needed some more tools. Had to get a 15mm wobble socket for the rear inner flange nut. Times like this remind me you can never have enough tools at your disposal.

 

[Shadrach]

So AH64ID and CKESSEL how are the turbos now that you have some time on them? Shad

 

[CKESSEL]

The unit on my truck is working fine. I had a couple of p0299 codes set for low boost but I think thats squared away now. The v-band clamp on the pipe to the JAKE was loose so had exhaust leak and the batteries were bad which was causing the heater grid to come on at temps like 60* plus contributed to the p0299 being set. The only negative thing I can say is the instructions blow for the water line pipes. I would have never figured it out unless I saw the photos at the beginning of this post.

 

[AH64ID]

I still really like mine, and it works great. I have been towing for the last 2 summers at 17-18. 5K around the Idaho mountains and it works great.

 

[BlackBullit]

That's great to hear that! I'm thinking about doing a bigger turbo on mine in the future. The stock one just don't cut it. Hoping that I could gain some mpg by going with a better one too.

Happy motoring!!

 

[Bob4x4]

Ok,my question is can you still pull grades in od around 2k rpm or do you have to downshift to get more rpm? I want it all. My Airstream is light and aerodynamic,I have a turbo now with a small billet compressor wheel and a larger than stock turbine wheel and housing that will allow me to run 350-400hp level and still tow at 2k in od. Of course empty I prefer a larger turbo but the towing at 2k is more important to me than a few more ponies while empty

 

[AH64ID]

I can pull grades at 2000 rpms in OD, about 67 mph, and have enough air. If it takes WOT it will slowly heat up as I increase in altitude. I pulled a 7% grade last fall and was about 1275° as I crossed the peak at 7070'. I want to say it was in the 40's or 50's for ambient temp, and I was probably loaded up to 17K GCW. Load ran 98-100% the last mile. I didn't go above 1250° until over 6K feet. That tune (very similar to my current tune) dyno'd 415/850 corrected and is all the fuel I want to put to that turbo so I can go WOT in OD.

I generally drop down to 55-60 and run 2200-2500 rpms in 5th, it takes less fuel; however, when on the interstate I run 67-70 in OD and haven't found any grades I have to drop to 5th for.

 

[Bob4x4]

Thanks Will it still have enough with a lighter load?say 7k trailer

 

[AH64ID]

Yes I think it would. I ran it for a while with about a 5K TT and I could use OD a lot more than I do now. Mainly I run out of power/EGT's at the same time, and don't like pulling hills less than 2000 in OD.

 

[Bob4x4]

Sounds good. The one I am running now will but a couple others I have tried would surge under my 7k load at 70-75 depending on tires I run 35 or 37s. With my set up it takes very little pedal and gets great mileage. In direct at 2500 I can see the fuel gauge drop on a long grade

 

[Prairie Dog]

So is this turbo a good choice for someone like myself, with only a Smarty Jr set to #3 and no other fueling? (Maybe some 50 HP sticks someday but thats it)



Scott