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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Gary-K7GLD and other APPS Gurus

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Comp Stuck on 5x5

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission ScangaugeII

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Got a confirmation email from Mopar Parts America that the part went out today and will be here tomorrow FedEx.



Soooooo..... anyone know the real torque spec of this part? :rolleyes:
 
Soooooo..... anyone know the real torque spec of this part? :rolleyes:
From the 2001 Dodge Service Manual:



INSTALLATION - DIESEL



(1) Clean sensor mounting hole of rust or contaminants.



(2) Install new o-ring to sensor. Apply clean engine oil to sensor o-ring and sensor threads.



(3) Install IAT sensor into intake manifold. Tighten to 14 N·m (10 ft. lbs. ) torque.



(4) Connect sensor electrical connector.​



Fred,



How accurate is your torque wrench?



10 ft. lbs. isn't much, and if you're attempting to use a 1/2" drive torque wrench near its lower measurement limit, it may be very unaccurate and not even "click" when it passes the torque setting. It's better to use a smaller inch-lb type torque wrench and convert the desired setting (10 ft lbs x 12 = 120 inch lbs).



John L.
 
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John,



My torque wrench is a Craftsman 3/8 drive, and I have never had a problem before. When not in use, the torque wrench is always set to the absolute lowest setting, and when in use has a locking mechanism to set the torque value. I wonder if maybe the brass was just old, causing metal fatigue. :confused:



What I'm going to do with the new part is install it finger-tight, then tighten just under 1/4 turn and I should be okay.



On another note, I just went to the FedEx site and checked the tracking number... it says that my part is due to arrive on 31 Mar, with Standard Overnight service... left Oregon at 3:20 this afternoon. #@$%!#@$%!#@$%!
 
DLBurns -



Have you done the manual recalibration of your dc APPS? (There is a thread on how to do the manual recalibration. You have to remove the APPS bracket and get to the actual dc APPS to rotate it) 0122 I think implies a low out of range voltage which can occur if the pin23 C3 is not close to your APPS sticker number. The dc APPS has a small amount of adjustment you can do.



Bob Weis



Bob,

I guess I just thought the the APPS calibration was done by removing the negative cables of the battery for ½ hour and then reconnecting them. Turn key to on and slowly depress accelerator then slowly release?? I wasn't aware that you could manually callibrate the part. Where is that thread located? do you have a link by chance? Is your comment about pin 23 referring to the voltage at the pin as compared to what is on the sticker of the APPS:confused: I'm a little lost here.

Thanks for your patience.

Dave
 
How do you reach your IAT

OK... I probably should check my IAT as well since I do run an exhaust brake. My question is, how in the heck do you get to it:confused: I ain't the smallest feller and there just looks to be no way for me to get my arm in there to get a socket on this thing. I certainly don't want to snap it off like FLynes!
 
Bob,

I guess I just thought the the APPS calibration was done by removing the negative cables of the battery for ½ hour and then reconnecting them. Turn key to on and slowly depress accelerator then slowly release?? I wasn't aware that you could manually callibrate the part. Where is that thread located? do you have a link by chance? Is your comment about pin 23 referring to the voltage at the pin as compared to what is on the sticker of the APPS:confused: I'm a little lost here.

Thanks for your patience.

Dave





You can check apps voltage at pin 23 at the pcm. When you remove the 6 bolts to remove your apps bracket look at the back of the 6 pin connector,it is numbered. I have found it a bit easier to insert a paper clip into the back of the connector PIN #3 The pos. lead of your voltmeter goes there and the neg lead goes to ground (engine block). What you do is turn to key on,then read the voltage on the meter. It should read what the sticker says on the back. If it does not loosen the 2 torx screws and rotate the sensor either way you need to go.
 
Hey Dave, after reading all this I went out and cleaned my IAT yesterday. I removed the engine lift bracket and that helps. Mine was hardly sooty at all. just a haze on the plastic surround. With your mileage I doubt you need to worry about it.
 
Dave,

I took off my engine lift bracket quite a while ago. Your probably right though, with my low mileage I may not need to worry about it. It would just be nice to know that I can get to it if I need to, which I can't ... very easily at least!
 
Timbo,

Thanks for the instructions... I know diddley squat about electronics... I usually fix things electric via my check book! Speaking of which, I may be ordering one of your APPS here soon if this fix doesn't work.

Thanks again

Dave
 
Iat Resolution!!!!!

I got home yesterday to see that FedEx had left a nice little box from Mopar Parts America on my doorstep. I popped the hood open, lubed the o-ring of the IAT sensor with oil, installed it finger-tight, then torqued it less than 1/4 turn past finger-tight, which is the position it was sitting at, when I took off the original sensor.



I really can't believe that a sensor would make THAT much of a difference, but the truck feels smoother... ... WAAAAYYYY smoother. The old sensor was so crudded up with oily soot (tar-like), that I'm surprised no code was thrown, but if it's not in the ECM parameters to throw a code so long as the sensor is sending a signal, then no surprise there.



I took the truck over to the feed store to pick up a few bales of alfalfa... . the store is 20 minutes away. I got the truck on the highway, set the cruise to 55MPH and began monitoring the real-time MPG on-board computer. What I saw floored me: not only did the truck feel smoother, the computer was reading 23MPG, vs 19MPG before I took the old sensor out. The average MPG jumped from 16. 8 to 17. 2, by the time I got home.



I am extremely happy with the results and would definitely recommend that all the TDR folks check this sensor for cleanliness.



Pictures to follow, as soon as I get my new hard drive on my laptop.



P. S. I forgot to mention that I am at 7/8 tank and I've gone 175 miles!!!Oo.
 
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Fred, it's amazing what a new IAT sensor will do for mileage. Everyone who's replaced a bad IAT says the same thing you did... "WOW... feels like a new truck".
 
Mike,



It's the first time I've had a smile on my face, while driving my truck, in a very long time, especially given fuel prices these days. I gotta tell ya too that driving at 55MPH is really enjoyable; I look at these folks flying by me, and I realize that they really aren't taking the time to enjoy the drive. Everyone is just in too much of a damn hurry these days.



BTW, what part of Idaho are you from? Brooke grew up in Nampa; she worked and lived in Boise, when I met her.
 
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I got home yesterday to see that FedEx had left a nice little box from Mopar Parts America on my doorstep. I popped the hood open, lubed the o-ring of the IAT sensor with oil, installed it finger-tight, then torqued it less than 1/4 turn past finger-tight, which is the position it was sitting at, when I took off the original sensor.



I really can't believe that a sensor would make THAT much of a difference, but the truck feels smoother... ... WAAAAYYYY smoother. The old sensor was so crudded up with oily soot (tar-like), that I'm surprised no code was thrown, but if it's not in the ECM parameters to throw a code so long as the sensor is sending a signal, then no surprise there.



I took the truck over to the feed store to pick up a few bales of alfalfa... . the store is 20 minutes away. I got the truck on the highway, set the cruise to 55MPH and began monitoring the real-time MPG on-board computer. What I saw floored me: not only did the truck feel smoother, the computer was reading 23MPG, vs 19MPG before I took the old sensor out. The average MPG jumped from 16. 8 to 17. 2, by the time I got home.



I am extremely happy with the results and would definitely recommend that all the TDR folks check this sensor for cleanliness.



Pictures to follow, as soon as I get my new hard drive on my laptop.



P. S. I forgot to mention that I am at 7/8 tank and I've gone 175 miles!!!Oo.



Been gone for a few days Fred - glad to see you got the issue well taken care of - glad it was so easy a fix! :)
 
Maybe changing the IAT should be on a "routiene maintenance" list every 5 years or so to help keep the mpg as high as possible?



EDIT -----



Have 91k and an exhaust brake, so ordered an IAT today Mopar Parts America $23 + $9 shipping $32 total. Will swap it out every 100k, clean the OEM one and have a spare in the truck kit. IF it makes hardley ANY positive difference in mpg then it will pay for itself in a year or so @ $4. 00/gallon. IF anyone needs an IAT in an emergency no go situation you can borrow the spare, just return it, or buy me a new one if you keep it. I should only need it every 6 years or so. Cheap insurance.



Bob Weis
 
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Bob,



I think that's an excellent idea. I really still can't believe how smooth the truck feels!!!!:D:D:D My truck's on-board computer real-time MPG was reading a steady 23MPG on the way home!!!!!!!!! I LOVE IT!!!!!!! :D:D:D:D
 
So I uploaded my pics of the old IAT pre-cleaning and post-cleaning, as well as what an IAT looks like if it's over-torqued :mad:



Unfortunately, last night was when my laptop decided to take a gigantic crap and die, taking the pics I uploaded with it. #@$%! Thank God I have my old trusty Dell from 2000, which still works. Screw HP, I'm gettin a Dell Laptop Dude! :-laf



So, long story short, no IAT pics. It was gross, though. Anyone who hasn't should clean theirs. Carb cleaner works miracles.
 
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