Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Gauge brand and install

[The Red Goat]

It is now time for gauges. But I have a few questions. Which brand looks the best? I am leaning towards Autometer Z series, but I do not like their fuel pressure gauge. I want gauges with black face and white letters, any sugestions. Also, I have never been in a truck with gauges on the a pillar. What is the best placement? Which on top, middle, bottom. Is this install something I can do myself, any special tools. I guess I am just looking for moral support.

 

[snowracer69]

.

I have the Autometer Z-series, boost, pyro, and trans temp in my A-pillar, and will have a 0-35 PSI boost gauge in my cubby hole sometime this week for a fuel pressure gauge. I did considerable research on this subject, and found that there is no major problem running a boost gauge as a fuel PSI gauge, and since I wanted them all to be identical, and didn't want to spend $180+ for the electric z-series FP gauge, I went this route. I have two freinds who have the Autometer Ultralights, and they look really good in the a-pillar, however I like the way mine look stock by being black... the ultralights are more flashy, and aren't for me.



As far as placement, as I said, I have the Pyro, 0-60 PSI boost, and Trans temp gauges in the a-pillar, in that order, from bottom to top. The pyro took a while to get used to at night, cause with the green condoms on, you can't really see the numbers all that well w/o squinting if you have your lights dimmed at all, but you soon realize that with a quick glance you'll know if it's within normal operating temps or not. My FP gauge will be put in the cubby hole (since I don't have leather seats), as is a dummy light that I have there for transfering fuel. I might build an angled bezel for it, but since it's FP and not important to look at constantly, I probably won't.



Tools, hmmm. Well, for the boost gauge, you can go two ways... . either get all the reducers and put it in place of the plug just in front of the map sensor, or you can drill and tap your intake horn, which, with hindsite being 20/20, is what I would do now... it wouldn't take much longer, and I think it'd give more acurate readings. If you go like I did and replace the plug, standard wrenches are all you need, along with tape for the threads (am at a loss right now as to what that tape is called, I'm feeling pretty slow). For the pyro, you need a drill bit and tap that is appropriate for the size of thermocouple that you have. I actually put a 1/4"x1/8" (I believe) adapter on mine, and used a 7/32" drill bit and 1/4" NPT tap for mine... now, don't take those measurements for the gospel, cause they're just off the top of my head... double check everything. If you drill pre-turbo, drill a pilot hole first with 1/8" or slightly larger bit, to make sure it's good and straight, then go back with the bigger one... . the best trick I found was to slap some grease on the bit, then drill about 10 turns (or until you have some shavings sticking to the grease) then wipe it clean and do it again... . yeah, it took me 2 hours to install my pyrometer, BUT, I never removed my turbo, and never sucked any metal through it... . I used a magnet after I was done drilling and also after tapping to make sure I had all the metal out of the exhaust manifold. You can find some really good writeups on how and where to tap the manifold through the search function... you also want to put it on (if going pre-turbo) the rear three cylinders, as they run the hottest. Ok, trans temp... . you either need a JRE manifold to put in the line out of the transmission, or a replacement line... . I've had both. The JRE manifold works great, but when I had my transmission re-done by Fred at Desert Diesel, he requested that I put in the whole line just so i didn't blow the manifold apart and pump my transmission dry... I figured I was spending $2K+, what another $80. So, now I have the line... it looks good, and my readings come from about 6 inches away from the transmission, in the hottest line coming out of it. For fuel pressure gauges, I'm not sure yet... I haven't done mine yet. I'm putting my new banjo for it post filter though, so that it will also show me if I have a plugged up filter... . since I just got my LP replaced a couple days ago, I'm not worried about FP too much right now.



Anyway, that's just my $0. 0175... hope I helped some.



Josh

 

[BFC]

Ok, what he said, LOL! I have a full complement of Z's in a triple pillar pod, fuel pressure is down by the middle hump under the dash. (0/35 Z boost gauge with a SS braided line, works great)



No complaints and with the green cap on the lights, matches EOM quite close. Works for me.



Glenn

 

[Rockcrusher]

I'm picking up power for fuel gauge at the cigarett lighter, where is the best place to pick up gauge light power? 2002 2500.

I've been dragging my feet getting this done. Too many iorons in the fire.

 

[LWINGATE]

Where did you get the green caps for the bulbs? I'm assuming that it looks somewhat turquoise or green depending on your perception at night? The bulbs don't seem to be able to be replaced on mine.

 

[c-hawk]

Red Goat,



I have very limited experience with this, but I'll let you know what I did anyway.



I bought the Isspro EV's with the red pointers, that just recently came out. I haven't even had a chance to install them yet, but I can't imagine a gauge having a look any closer to the factory instrumentation. The only question I still have is about their night time appearance. I am guessing they should be very close to the factory there also. The light is supposed to come through the white numbers and red needle, so it should be good.



DIS has some very good pictures of them on their website, and should have them in stock. You may want to give them a look, that's where I got mine. http://www.dieselpage.com/gauge.htm



I bought the 0-1500 pyro, 0-40 boost, and 100-280 for trans.



Good luck, Chris

 

[RJOL]

Take a look at Geno's site for Westach gauges. They're priced right, come with the green condom for the light bulbs (along with one other color I don't remember) and they work. The dual EGT/Boost gauge is neat and save one hole on the install. The Fuel Pressure gauge is electronic and works as advertised. Have had mine in for two years without a hickup... .

 

[BFC]

Originally posted by LWINGATE

Where did you get the green caps for the bulbs? I'm assuming that it looks somewhat turquoise or green depending on your perception at night? The bulbs don't seem to be able to be replaced on mine.

They came with the gauges. In the little plastic bag with the nuts and all. There should be one red and one green little rubber caps, you just put them over the bulbs.



Glenn

 

[AggieJustin]

RG-



I've got the Autometer Z-series EGT and boost gauges on my a-pillar. With the green bulb condoms, they match the dash lights are pretty close and are easy to read.



For fuel pressure, I went with the Westach gauge mounted down by the transfer case shifter. It fits right in down there, looks like it belongs.



You can see pics of the installs in my Reader's Rigs gallery.



JM

 

[dieselshu]

Guages and install

Hey red Goat, Just my two cents! go with Diesel injection service, they sell Isspro which are really sweet, and have downloadable install instructions for the boost and Pyro. Purchase a "95 cooler line" from Fred at desert diesel for transmission temp. Here is the link to DIS and here is Freds: http://www.dieselpage.com/gauge.htm[/URL] http://www.desertdieselparts.com

If you have any questions drop me line. Oo.

 

[jebia]

careful if you use westach dual temp gauges

Be careful if you order more than one of the westach dual temp gauges. They might not look the same.



I ordered two of the gauges and the face plates were different. Both were dual 0-300 deg f, but one gauge had numbered increments on both sides and the other had the numbers (only one set) down the middle of the gauge.



Geno's is sending me a replacment (they had to check over twenty boxes of the same part number to find a match for the dual numbered gauge I wanted).



Jon

 

[cdpsrjc]

DIS

I bought my Isspro EV pyro, boost, and transmission temp gauge at DIS and couldn't be happier. I also bought the 3 gauge pillar mount and paid $6 to have it painted to match my interior by DIS before shipment. The paint job was first rate and matched my interior perfectly. The finish was very tough and did not scratch anywhere during installation. The lighting level on the EVs is just right for me. The light color matches the factory lighting well. I also have a Westach FP gauge from Genos in the cubby hole using the mounting hardware (plastic mounting plate) supplied with the gauge (I did ask for the mounting plate since I saw it offered free for other gauge) from Genos. It all looks great and I'd do it all again in a heartbeat. Service from both DIS and Genos was excellent.



Richard

 

[DEZLPWR]

Isspro EV's...

I love mine! I have the newer version with the red pointers... Oo.

 

[cosborne]

Did you guys remove the stock a-pillar and use the triple pod as a replacement? I was looking over the instructions last night on the pod and it wants to be used as a cover over the stock plastic. My only concern is making it stay and not rattle. If I don't use the stck piece, how does the cover attach?

 

[AggieJustin]

I removed the stock a-pillar and use the new one as a replacement.



You can drill a hole at the top of the pillar and use a screw to secure it, the bottom will fit tightly next to the dash. For mine, I added a second screw next to the windshield to help pull the pillar up closer to the frame.



Put some flat black paint on the screwheads and no one will ever notice them. Plus, if you ever take the gauges out, you have a perfectly good stock pillar to put back on.



JM

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

I didn't have time to read eveybodys llllllloooooooooonnngggg stories but here goes: Boost on top, Pyro in middle, Ttemp on bottom. Hook up for power on fuse 5 or 7 ,i think. Boost fitting from piers is the best way for boost hook up. 18 bucks and no tapping.