Gauge Installation--Isspro R607T,R8603R,how long?

[Archive]

I'm very close to ordering these gauges from Dieselpage.com and I'm trying to gain some insight as exactly how to do the installation with minimal surprises. These are EGT and Boost gauges respectively.

Does anyone in TDR Land have any advice from their own installation experiences? How about the installation of the Full Pillar with the tweeter, anyone do that yet? I want to do this myself and I do have a garage, but my truck will not fit in it, so I'll be doing this outside my garage. What is a typical time frame to do this? I know that technique is everything here, but the first time you do anything, you will not do it as good or as fast as the second time you do it. Thanks for the advice all you die hard TDRs'.

------------------
CJ in RSM, CA
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT Quad Cab, 6spd,ETH,4x2,4. 10 Limited Slip, Trailer tow hitch, long bed

 

[Archive]

I installed the EGT probe, wiring and gauge in a pod that sits on top of the dash and if I remember correctly it took about 2 hours from start to finish. That did include some time for liquid refreshments and me being anal about drilling the hole in the exhaust manifold.

Didn't install boost gauge yet, so I can't help you with that one. Sorry... .

Mike

------------------
'99 QC 2500 SLT Driftwood 2wd SB 24v Auto 3. 55 LSD ISSPRO pyrometer

 

[Archive]

One site I checked recommended removing the turbo and stuffing a rag into the exhaust manifold before drilling the 7/16" hole for the thermocouple. Another site recommended using grease and a mechanics magnet to control the shavings with the turbo on.

I am concerned with this part of the EGT install, which is the better method?

 

[Archive]

short war story #ad
#ad
BOOST & PYRO on pillar
It took me about 4 hrs but I was anal about every thing, drill location , removing intake elbow before drilling. Make shure you have the proper tap for your fittings. Pre plan wire& tubing routing, fire wall entry point and some wire to pull wires up dash at pillar and routing to firewall (most time consuming for me as i did not want spidermandan wires under dash). Did not rush, had time for a couple of dews. Out side 95, in the drive, no shade, stupid me did it in the afternoon, took off work to be able to get it done befor the week end so I could see what was happening with other toys installed previous week when towing. Did a lot of good as ISB broke 8 mi out of town. Cummins recomends tc be located post turbo as if tc tip burns off it will not be ingested by turbo( expensive), used 90deg air drill on turbo elbow.

------------------
2K,BROKEN ISB, #ad
,2500,Laramie +,Quad,4x,"slushbox 250 RPM drop WOT shifts",everything cept leather and clearance lites, reese 15k 5th slider, LAVERNGE BULL BAR,WESTIN NERFS,
pullee #1 26' Arctic Fox 5th
#2 22' car hauler w/ 76 Pinto 392cid or 68 Cyclone GT Cobra Jet FB
NRA,VFW,SASS

[This message has been edited by JNutter (edited 08-25-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

I'll tell you a horror story about EGT probes. I broke a tap off in the manifold while tapping my friends truck. Took me three hours to get it out.

------------------
98. 5 3500 QC 4x4, Driftwood/Mist Grey, 5 spd, 3. 54, 19. 5 Alcoa's, 245/70-19. 5 Michelin's, Ranchhand front bumper, Ranchhand rear bumper, Ranchhand toolbox, "Scotty Air", TST PowerMax2, Autometer Gauges, Centerforce clutch, Upgraded fuel lines (JRE and Aeroquip), MagHytec Diff Cover, PacBrake

 

[Archive]

Tap Magic is your friend #ad

 

[Archive]

Installation of the 3 gauge is quick and painless. Wiring can be easily fished down thru the pillar alongside the fuseblock.
Some hints:
1. Drill a small pilot hole in the manifold.
Place grease on the drill bit and make
sure you have a small magnet to recover
filings.

2. Take your time with the tap and don't
side load it. use a quality tap and lube.

3. I have installed the boost gauge line in
the head fitting as well as in the
intake. No noticible difference in
readings from either location.

4. Tie your two light wires together and
make your connection under the pillar
cover. This will allow you to run only
one wire down the pillar. Same thing can
be done with a ground wire.

5. Drill a small hole in the exposed metal
under the left corner of the dash by the
brake release for ground wire attchment.

6. Pull your dash facia and the headlight
switch. With a test light you can find a
lead that will allow your lights to be
controlled via the dimmer switch.

Don't worry about how long it takes to do it. You need to take as much time as you need to get a quality job.