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Gauge Problems + Engine temp too high

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New First Time Owner of a 1st Gen

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I have been having two distinct problems with my 1991. 0 3/4 ton 4x4 auto 212k ram.



First of all the gauge cluster:



When the turn signal is on, the temp and oil pressure gauges "jump" with the flasher. Also when the fan for the heat/ac is on the gauges all (with the exception of the speedo) all nearly peak out. (temp to H, volts to 18 etc. ) And when I am under high torque (when accelerating quickly or pulling a heavy load) the speedo jumps incessantly and sometimes doesn't work at all. Is this just a short, or is the cluster shot? If so, where can I find a new cluster?



Second:



I have been having trouble with the engine temp on my ram. (this started b4 the gauge trouble) When the outside temp is above 70 I can't keep the truck cool on the interstate (70mph) even when empty. When loaded the truck overheats quickly (top 1/3 of the gauge) and keeps climbing until I stop. When I stop the temp quickly drops. I had the radiator recored (with a 3 core to replace the 2 core) and replaced the thermostat. I think the problem may be in the engine fan, but I can hear it kick in an out at times. Could it be the fan, and if so is there any way to put an electric clutch (with manual control??) or even an electric fan to remedy the problem for good?



Thanks



DrRoth
 
Welcome, you sure picked a bushel full of problems to introduce yourself with.

Lots of unrealted problems that your lumping together. Thats a lot of miles and not much history.



The gauges cluster blinking makes me think your charging circuit is on the low side and or your battery might be on it way out.



The speedo could be the mechanical sender on the transmission wearing out. I have had that one. Check the connection on the electrical at the transmission. Lots of oil in that area that can cause bad connection.



The over heating prob reminds me of and old truck I ounce had that the antifreeze hadn't been changed regularly and the block was full of rust. It would stay cool rapped up with little or no load but if you were pulling or idling for long it would overheat. I replaced the stat and radiator with brand new units and the problem didn't go away. Finaly lost a freeze plug and found the mess while changing and flushing the system.



Some serious flushing and water treatment might tell the story but when you stir all that up you are asking for trouble with the waterpump seal.



Sorry Doc, no cheap, simple, quick solutions for you. Electrical can take some time. But there is plenty of instruction and advice here if you have the time and patience.



Get cracking and give us updates.

Good Luck
 
Welcome to the TDr.



Now the gages jumping sounds like bad body grounds to me. There is a small wire that comes off the negative terminal to the raditor support. Remove the screw that goes threw the wire end and sand down the raditor support under it and reinstall the wire.



The next set of grounds to check are the dash grounds. I am not sure where your early model has them. But I would check behind the blank panel to the right of the steering column. That is where my 93 has them.



Bad grounds can cause gages to do all sorts of wierd things. Giving a high false reading is one of them.
 
As far as the dash problem, I would look at the ground circuit. My truck used to do this too. I had the dash apart probably 5-6 times before I found the problem. One the back of the gauges there is a round connector with a bunch of wires running in it. I figured out which one was ground, unplugged the connector and looked at the terminal in the plug(harness side). I took an oring pick and tweaked the tabs in the connector a little. Problem went away. The terminal had gotten tired and had a poor connection on the pin in the back of the dash. Others here have found that on the gauges there is lines in the circuit board that come dirty, corroded. Using a pencil eraser cleans them up, I have heard. Wouldn't be a bad idea when you are in there.



Cooling problem:

Does the upper radiator hose get hot? If it is staying cool then maybe the stat is not working correctly. I gotta ask, did you install the stat the right way? If you have any doubt, you need to check it. Has the water pump ever been changed? I don't believe the fan is the problem, if it was, you wouldn't have a problem at high way speeds. Unless you are pulling heavy, at highway speeds the fan really doesn't do anything. Have you owned the truck a long time, or just aquire it? Have you verified that the gauge is reading correctly? Maybe someone else will step up here with some more suggestions.



Good luck

Michael
 
I am going with the sending unit for the gauge! I would actually bet on that one. I say this because it reeks of my learning curve: Always spending money on the big stuff and finally fixing it via the . 99 cent piece :)



Let us know.....
 
Wow I'm really impressed with the fast response. I'm a good old farm boy so the suggestions you've all given so far are great and I'm always willing to try elbow grease before spending money (lots of student loan debt!!).



To answer some of the questions, I've had the truck since 97 (80k) and the water pump was replaced about 2 years ago, the hose does get hot, the stat is in correctly (checked twice), and the cooling system has been flushed regularly.



I hope some of my problems don't seem trivial to you all, I joined TDR mainly for help keeping my beloved dodge running strong and true! The help is greatly appreciated and I'm always open for suggestion!!.
 
You already got some good advice, so I won't add to it.

But... if you decide to put in an electric fan, it is pretty easy. Lots of boneyard set-ups will work . My son put an electric in his Cummins/S-10 conversion. A friend put a dual electric set-up in his 96. Both systems work very well.

Good luck.

Jay
 
DrRoth, where in Iowa are you located? I live in south eastern IA.



Your question on electric fans, I for one believe they are completely doable, and reliable. Myself and many of my friends put them on our off road trucks, and then drive them slow all day out four wheeling. I would hold off on the install of them on your truck until the cooling system is working properly. It just makes things worse when you change stuff at the same time trying to fix it. Get it working properly, cooling wise, then if you want convert to electrics. That way you know if you went the right way or not.



Just my $. 02



Michael
 
Does your '91 have the downflow or crossflow radiator? Based on my own experience, my recommendation is an aluminum crossflow radiator with a high-volume electric fan. I have a 28"x19" with a 3300 CFM Zirgo fan in the contraption listed in my sig below. The fan NEVER comes on unless stopped in traffic for more than about 10 minutes or so. As long as the vehicle remains in motion... . even if it's only 10MPH... it has enough air flow across it to keep coolant temperatures at a rocksteady 180*.



And this is in a 12,000lb class A motorhome, mind you!
 
Ditto on the ground as far as gauge problems. Especially that one in front of the batery on the rad support. I had to relocate it om Mom's 92. I moved it to the bolt sticking out of the support just down and leftward (from the truck's perspective) of the little hole that was stock. Your 91 sounds about like mine- no IC, and all the other goodies. Volt regulators are easier to replace, though.



As for the overheating, I have yet to encounter any problems of that nature. I'd check the sending unit, or hook up a mechanical gauge, and verify that it really is getting hot, and the sender isnt just going bad. Check connections, esp the round female ends, and make sure they are good. How often have you changed the coolant? How often did the previous owner do it? I'm not doubting you, just wanting a few more details. I have seen a few stock radiators from the nonIC trucks, and they are TINY, compared to even the later 1st Gens. Still ought to be enough to cool it empty. What gears do you have with that 3spd auto? If you are trying to go65-70 with 3. 54s, you could just be wrapping it out too much, and need either 3. 07s or an OD transmission. Good excuse to BOMB.



Daniel
 
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