Gauge questions

[Midnight]

I have a few questions concerning the gauges you guys are usin

g in your full a-pillars.



1-what style autometer are you using?

2-what configuration are they in?(boost,trans,exhaust)

3-is the boost gauge worth having on a stock engine?

4-where is the best place to purchase?

5-where did you tap into for the boost and exhaust probes?

Thanks in advance,i know that is alot of questions all at once.

 

[RJOL]

Gauges

Midnight,



I'm using Westach gauges in my 2 hole full "A Pillar" mount.



One gauge is a combo EGT (Pyro) and Boost, and the other is Fuel Pressure.



You don't have info in you signature so it's hard to tell you what order you should put gauges in. If you have an auto, the transmission temp gauge is probably more important then the boost, but you can get the boost in a combo with egt so that doesn't save you much. Also, the boost will be more important if you put a "Power Edge EZ" type mod in, or change injectors.



The fuel pressure gauge is important for 24V Rams (with VP44 injector) due to the many threads describing the weakness of the lift pump.



Geno's is a good source, and the following thread will give you a good idea as to how to mount them:



http://www.showmestate.org/stltdr/how-tos/EGT_how_to.shtml



Have fun... ... .

 

[GFoley]

1 - Ultralites

2 - EGT, Boost, Trans

3 - I wish I had done mine before mods to compare different readings.

5 - You did not state 12V or 24V. Most instructions for EGT direct you to tap the exhaust manifold before turbo, the picture in the instructions was easy to follow.

Some show tapping the backside of the intake horn for boost. Another showed to pull the plug behind the fuel filter. That's what I did. I replaced the plug with a plumbing part from the hardware store and made my connection there. Caution: The part needed to be turned down to match the overall diameter of the plug I removed. Otherwise the points of he hex plug contact the underside of the intake before you are able to seat it properly. A friend turned it down on a lathe and made a nicely finished piece. I guess I could have done it with a Dremel of other grinder but not so pretty.

 

[Lsfarm]

Gauges

Hi Midnight.



I bought autometer 'Z' gauges. They are pretty close to the factory look.



I put the Egt at the bottom [closest to the line of sight, can indicate time to back off if getting too hot.



In the middle is the Boost gauge, it pretty much indicates how heavy your foot is, along with the EGT. It can tell you when you have a dirty air filter, or if you have a leak in the boost, causing high EGT's. So yes it is good to have on a stock truck.



At the top is the trans temp. This moves some, but only under heavy loads and start and stop driving, it usually indicates about 20-30 degrees less than water temp.



I bought my gauges and A pillar mount from Doug and Andy at www.smokindiesel.com they are great guys, good prices and painted the mount to match my interior color, so I didn't have to.



The boost was accessed above the fuel filter, at the factory 3/4" pipe plug. The EGT is Pre turbo, and drilled and tapped into the exhaust manifold.



If you have a manual trans, you could put a fuel pressure gauge in place of the trans temp gauge.



good luck, greg L

 

[Big White Beast]

Here's mine.....

#ad




Being taller I put the transmission temp at the bottom, it needs less watching. Boost is my fuel consumption gauge, I watch it fairly regularly. EGT's are in check for me so I don't watch it much either.



Fuel gauge with 2 senders is mounted in a cup from Geno's under the dash.







Garrett

 

[chuck3]

Ultra-Lites.

Top= Trans. Temp.

Middle= EGT

Bottom= Boost.

Yes I would put a boost press. gauge on a stock truck, because it wont stay stock for long if you hang out here.

 

[BFC]

Here ya go

1: Z's using green bulb cover, very close match to EOM

2:T: transmission temp M: EGT B: boost

3:To quote Chuck"If won't stay stock if you hang around here! " So yes

4: www.smokindiesel.com won't be sorry

5:3/4 plug driver's side of engine next to fuel filter use a 3/4 to 5/8 NPT bushing, EGT probe drilled and tapped manifold pre-turbo



Any thing else?



Glenn

 

[DLBurns]

trans temp location

Got a pretty good idea where the boost and EGT probes go, how about some ideas about the trans temp probe? I 've read about installing an older model trans. line that has a port in it for the probe. Where would I purchase one of these and what exactly does it replace?

Dave

 

[Lsfarm]

Transmission cooler Line

The Trans cooler line you want was used on '94 and '95 trucks when the factory offered a trans temp gauge as an option.



The line is the 'hot line' leaving the transmission just above the pan at the forward left corner, crossing over to the right side then forward and up to the heat exchanger.



There is a block installed on the line just after it leaves the transmission. The block is drilled and tapped for a temperature probe.



The part number is 5011 244 AA [I hope that is right]



The cost is just under $100, you may find a dealer that will discount it.



Mine fit perfectly, I lost only a little ATF, maybe 1/2 quart when I installed it.



Hope this helps Greg L

 

[BFC]

Janetty cooler line bloc

I bought a block from Janetty racing entreprise, it goes on the hot cooler line. Easy to install just cut 1 1/2 of the line just under the cooler. It goes on with compression fittings, 30$. No complaints with mine. If you rmove the air box you can do it from above and won't even get dirty, ATF loss is minimal.



MY 2c,



Glenn

 

[DLBurns]

Which is best?

Greg and Glen,

Thanks for the info. although I am now confused as to which way is the best way to go. It seems that the solid line with temp. port would be less likely to develop leaks but more expensive. Anyone have any problems with the Janetty comp. fitting port developing leaks?

 

[Lsfarm]

Options

I have read posts about the add on block leaking, but I'm sure a lot of people have had no problems at all.



I went with the factory line, so I can take it off and transfer it to another truck if I decide to get a different one.



I believe the add on block has compression fittings, which if done right are fine, but if not, can be a PITA to get right.



I guess it's up to you.



The other option is getting a Mag-Hytec pan, they are drilled and tapped for a temp probe, but I don't believe that this location is as good as in the 'hot line', the ATF in the pan is not where it is the hottest, which is where you want the probe.



Hope this helps, Greg L

 

[BFC]

Confused!

Welcome to asking opinions on this board.



As far as this one goes though, I'm pretty sure replacing the line is the ultimate thing, but 80$ bucks extra was not worth it to me. I got a BHAF and a Mallory heatshield instead. I have close to 10K on mine and I haven't lost a single drop of ATF yet.



Just adding to your confusion



Glenn

 

[Reddog1]

If you fry the transmission, you will spend between $2500 to $3000 to repair/replace it.



I used the ’95 pressure line to install a temp sending unit (no leaks, no problems).



The line cost about $110 (including shipping) from DTT.



I am in the process of buying and installing my gauges. I believe the proper position of the Trans Temp sending unit is at least as important as the EGT gauge.



Wayne