gauges and gauge pods?

[EMDDIESEL]

No, i just checked X 10 no mail from you. Did you use EMDDIESEL@aol.com ?

 

[dresslered]

Pre-turbo pyros can not indicate proper temperature shut-down although waiting until 150-250 degrees is probably enough time. The turbo is now acting as the heat source, and depending on how hot it became, it will take a lot longer to cool down than any pre-turbo temps will indicate.

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David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, HO Cummins ETH/DEE, SLT+, 3. 54 LSD, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Heated Leather, Sliding Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine + diff. temp. ), Autometer Ultra-Lite (electric fuel pressure, vacuum), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, Tork Lift camper tie-downs, Mag-Hytec, Mopar Tow Hooks, SmittyBilt Outland Sport Bumper Gaurd, 2-LO kit, AND functional Halo light!
Bigfoot 3000 10. 11 Slide-in Camper. "Do it in a Dually"

 

[CCahill]

This worked for me... Banks pillar, painted to match, VDO guages to match stock, with tweeter. . On thing you might consider is a fuel pressure guage. . This a replacement pillar, not to cover up your original. .
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Colin


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2001 Quad,4x4,AT,4. 10LS,LB,Loaded enough,stock,mostly... . 65 Chevelle sedan, Hella nice driver, 53 Nash Rambler Convt,1 of 653 built,[not a Metro], GM drivetrain, injection, and auto/od
Specialized FSR PRO Stumpjumper,Cannondale F2000, Loaded
MTD Lawn tractor with flames
12' fishin' boat, loaded. .

 

[EMDDIESEL]

This topic will go on forever it seems. No matter what, remember, You dont have to sit in your truck for 3 or 4 minutes before shutting down everytime you take your ram anywhere. All this talk of waiting till the EGT's reach 300degreees, yada, yada, yada. I have seen Cummins, International's and Detroit Diesels run well over 200k on our tow trucks original turbos and these were heavily used and abused trucks with nothing more then oil changes every 5,000 miles. None of our drivers ever waited more then 20 seconds to shutdown. Waiting and watching EGT's is a great habit,but the truth is, you are not going to severly shorten your trucks life by NOT waiting (that is unless you are towing heavy loads. ) Enjoy your truck, dont spend 15-20 minutes total a day sitting there staring at a gauge and wasting fuel. (and waiting till 200-150 degrees on a PRE turbo sensor is absolutley ridiculos, 300-250 is FINE. That has been proven. Just because the POST turbo EGT is over 300 degrees does not mean the shaft is. We have PRE turbo sensors protecting $80,000 turbos that follow this same guideline). I would rather get the automatic shutdown setup from ISSPRO. Remember, a new turbo is only $1,000. It sounds like a lot, but spending that much every 4 or 5 years is not so bad considering how much more time you will have doing other things instead of sitting there. Especially if you were not towing or hauling anything. Just my thoughts

 

[SlyBones]

So how hard an install is those Isspro turbo monitors. These sound like a great idea.

 

[dresslered]

Your point is well taken EMDDIESEL. My sister never waits to shut down her PowerStroke regardless of what she is towing and she has never had a failure. Cummins San Leandro did indicate that the most common failures that they see on the ISB is turbo failures due to not allowing proper cool down. I've never waited more than a minute or two to shut down my truck when unloaded. If you've got a post temp of over 300 degrees, I will assure you that the shaft (or at least the housing) is much hotter. Where do you think the heat is coming from? To each his own.


[This message has been edited by dresslered (edited 05-13-2001). ]

 

[hammong]

FWIW: I just installed my boost and pyro gauges today. The pyro went in pre-turbo, and the installation couldn't have been simpler in my opinion.

I wait until 300 degrees to shut down, and it doesn't take a great long time, even after running 950 degrees coming up the big hill just before entering the neighborhood. I think the wait time before shutdown was 1. 5 minutes, tops.

What struck me as a little odd is the pyro reading went UP after the engine shut down. No doubt this is because of heat soak, and that big iron exhaust manifold and turbine housing are considerably hotter than the EGT at the point of shutdown.

The only REAL way to settle the shutdown temp issue would be to mount a surface thermocouple on the exhaust turbing housing itself - but I bet you'd be waiting a long time to reach < 300 degrees.

Greg

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Y2K Dodge Cummins QC 2500 SLT Laramie 4x4 Long Bed, 4. 10/Auto, Forest Green/Driftwood, 265x75R16 Michelin LTX, 6 speaker CD, Camper/Tow/Plow Packages, Westin Black Nerfs, Mopar bedliner, Ultra bright diamondplate toolbox, K&N Filtercharger. Autometer EGT and Boost gauges with 2-gauge full pillar w/tweeter.
http://www.rints.com/hammond for photos!

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Hey Dresslered. When you shut your truck down and you say the gauge goes up, is this after the power is shutoff to the gauge?. If so, that has nothing to do with tempature, its the coil in the gauge that when de-energized will shoot up quickliy to around 400-600 degrees.

 

[mongoose]

Thanks for all the reply's guys. Ya'll have helped me narrow it down to a pyro and boost gauge for sure. And i'll probably do a fuel before long. Now i just have to decide between pre and post turbo. i don't want to start a heated discussion over the subject though. If i choose pre turbo, based on exprience how much difference is there in pre and post turbo temps? Example, if i see pre turbo readings of 500 in what temp range would my post turbo readings be? I know i'll have to drill and tap which ever i choose, but is one easier to get to than the other? Thanks again for all the help.

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Daniel McKeehan

1999 2500 QC/Short Bed/4X4 5 speed. Camper Package and of course a Cummins

 

[JoelPry]

Hello all, I completely agree with EMDDiesel, I have been a firefighter for 5 years, and one thing I do know is that I am the only guy driving the firetrucks that knows anything about diesels. As you can imagine, these trucks get used and abused, Im talking about cold start to full throttle in about 20 seconds, and when they pull in the station they never let the turbos cool off. And on top of that, all of these rigs are near max GVW or over. I have never seen a turbo failure or even any other hard-use related failure on anything, this includes powerstrokes, detroits, and cummins. Just my . 02

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2001. 5 2500QC, sport, auto, everything but leather and camper package
Intense Blue

[This message has been edited by JoelPry (edited 05-16-2001). ]

 

[hammong]

Drilling and tapping the pyro probe pre-turbo couldn't have been easier, though I have to admit I was a little "apprehensive" about the whole process.

I used a standard 5/16" high-speed steel bit, 1/8" NPT tap, and the larger size tap handle to do the dirty work. Per the great recommendations here, I had plenty of lithium grease on my drill bit and tap throughout the process, and cleaned it off promptly once the metal shavings got embedded in the grease. After the whole was drilled, and after I finished tapping - I swept the hole with a mechanic's magnet to catch any stray shavings (and there were are LOT).

No worries! Go slow with the 1/8" NPT tap. There's only a few "turns" of difference between not enough depth, and too much. It's better to go too shallow and have to put the tap back in after checking. If you go too deep, you're probably going to have to drill the hole out even bigger and have a NPT-tapped bung welded on.

Greg


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Y2K Dodge Cummins QC 2500 SLT Laramie 4x4 Long Bed, 4. 10/Auto, Forest Green/Driftwood, 265x75R16 Michelin LTX, 6 speaker CD, Camper/Tow/Plow Packages, Westin Black Nerfs, Mopar bedliner, Ultra bright diamondplate toolbox, K&N Filtercharger. Autometer EGT and Boost gauges with 2-gauge full pillar w/tweeter.
http://www.rints.com/hammond for photos!

 

[dresslered]

EMDDIESEL-
That wasn't me that claimed the pyro goes up after I shut down the engine. I have a VDO that goes to zero when I kill the engine. I believe Hammong made this observation when his pyro was wired "always on. " This would be due to heat soak from the manifold.

Mongoose-
Lots of discussion on that topic and you will find lots of info with the search feature. There is no simple formula relating pre- and post- locations. Generally speaking, pre-turbo is better for bombing efforts while post-turbo is better for cool down observations (if you decide this is important). My opinion is that the post turbo installation is the easiest as you mount the probe directly in the exhaust elbow. You can remove the elbow for tapping on a drill press, or tap it in place as you don't have to worry about metal shavings.


[This message has been edited by dresslered (edited 05-17-2001). ]

 

[Bad340fish]

On my old conquest you were doing good to get the turbo to stop GLOWING before you shut it down. I did have a turbo fail but it was due to the nut coming off of the compressor side(Nasty mess trust me, lot of cleaning and re cleaning of the Intercooler all the plumbing). So on went a larger turbo #ad
and same with it, If it was run hard it would GLOW. You could open the hood at night and the centersection and exhaust housing would not stop glowing. I was very very cruel to that car lol. Good on the maintanence HARD On the driving.

Most turbo failures are due to improper oil/oil changes. Gassers run EGT over 1000 all the time and the failure rate might be higher than diesels due to most deisel owners take care of there motors. You have some lady with a turbo daytona that goes 9K on an oil change at least and thats the one you see fogging the intersection out lol. Just my . 02

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Clark
1999 2500 QC SB 5spd, EZ, Flowmaster 3 chamber, K&N Re-0880
1968 Barracuda Formula S Viper Blue 11. 98@112 Currently scattered all over the garage

 

[SteveE]

Originally posted by STEVE FORD:
For everyone with the (A-Pillar) replacement, does it actually replace the present pillar or just attach to it? Also I have the tweeter in my pillar.

Here is what mine looks like.
TST Di Pricol gauges
Dual Pod Pillar Mount
from TST
Painted to close match.
Steve 2001. 5 ETH/DEE QC LB
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