Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Gauges connection to engine area

[ILIANBG]

I ordered my gauges-fuel pres. mechanical,boost, and pyro. They are all Isspro, black face EV, with triple pillar mount. I got it from Diesel Manor and came with nice instructions.

First-does this pillar mount go over existing plastic piece where the tweeter is, or I have to remove the factory piace?

Second-How do I route all wires and boost and fuel pressure plastic tubing from the cab to the engine? I got few plastic grommets to put in that opening,I just can't see where that is, or do I have to drill trough?

Third- I ordered the 1/2" Vulcan Relocation Kit for the lift pump, and I would like to do it too. I found out it replaces the schraeder chech valve at the VP-44, so if I have to go to the dealer for possible VP change in the future, which port are they going to use for testing the pressure with their equipment? Does the Vulcan Kit void the factory warranty?

I know-a lot of questions, but I have never done anything like this before.

Thanks for the great information on this site. I learned a lot from members experience. I want to do it right the first time.

 

[HookMeUp]

I don't know how the pillar mount installs. You can get the wires and tubing into the engine bay; if you look under the master brake cylinder from the engine side you will see where a wire loom goes into the cab. The grommet is plenty wide enough to poke a hole in it to get your wiring through.

 

[Hohn]

Some pillars replace the stock unit, others just cover it.

I mounted mine on top of the stock pillar and I like it.

 

[Bob4x4]

Ilian,it makes a cleaner install to toss the oe a pillar. You should pick-up a new grommet and make your own hole through the firewall,the size will depend on your future plans for add ons. Check the SoCalRR site Avi may be organizing a wrench day.



Bob

 

[Hohn]

Maybe that's why my truck looks so redneck

 

[BK]

Many dealers, are voiding warranties, or not honoring a warranty if they find ANY changes near what they are working on.

So the short answer, it all depends on your dealer when he sees the Vulcan lines.



The dealers I've delt with around here, I know for a fact, if my LP, VP44 or engine took a fuel related dump, and I had a Vulcan kit on it, or even just relocated the LP, I'd be up the creek with out a paddle.



When my 1st LP died, I had the discussion with them. I had a 3 hour arguement with them to prove to them they were testing the LP wrong and it was bad.

While that was going on, they went over my truck for signs of bombing, and noted on my record that my antifreeze color was not stock. I heard the manager tell a clerk to right it up and get it in. I have Fleetgaurd blue Antifreeze.

When I talked to the mechanic about moving the LP to near the tank, he said, they would most likely not honor or just pull my warranty. He went on to say how DC sends out memos on telling them what to look for for mods and signs of bombing. And if any signs are found. . yank... He went on to say how the other local dealers are doing the same thing and none were mod friendly.

 

[GCULP]

First-does this pillar mount go over existing plastic piece where the tweeter is, or I have to remove the factory piace?

if it is a autometer pillar you will have to mount it to the stock piece, however you have to sand or grind the heck out of the stock one for the new one to fit over the old one correctly, be careful not to grind off the 3 mounting tabs. you will have to grind off the stock speaker portion completely or cut it off and sand smooth, when you get done there really isn't that much left of it.

Second-How do I route all wires and boost and fuel pressure plastic tubing from the cab to the engine? I got few plastic grommets to put in that opening,I just can't see where that is, or do I have to drill trough?

if you look under the master brake cylinder from the engine side you will see where a wire loom goes into the cab. The grommet is plenty wide enough to poke a hole in it to get your wiring through.

DITTO

Third- I ordered the 1/2" Vulcan Relocation Kit for the lift pump, and I would like to do it too. I found out it replaces the schraeder chech valve at the VP-44, so if I have to go to the dealer for possible VP change in the future, which port are they going to use for testing the pressure with their equipment? Does the Vulcan Kit void the factory warranty?

So the short answer, it all depends on your dealer when he sees the Vulcan lines.

DITTO



it also helps to pull the dash bezzle and the headlight switch out so you can route the wires from under the dash up through the fuze panel area and up through the front corner of the dash. you can also pull your light wire from the back of the headlight switch, use a volt meter or light and probe the wires and check the dimmer action till you find the correct one and tap into it.

 

[BK]

I've also read that the dealers take the installation of gauges as a sign that most likely bombing has been done. So they look harder.



While it's not always true, as in my case.

I have Zero bombing, just changes for reliability and to reduce heat.

But they look and look.

 

[Bob4x4]

if it is a autometer pillar you will have to mount it to the stock piece,

Sorry I have to dissagree. It is not required to mount to the OE piece and fits better with out it. After installing gauges on MANY CTDs of all years and configurations,save the OE piece for some one who needs it. :-laf



Bob

 

[NoSeeUm]

Mine went over the OE pillar cover. I did try to mount it with out the OE piece under but getting the holes drilled right and or trying to drill new ones was a PITA.



I did have to cut the OE pillar cover out in the area around the tweeter hole to get the new one to fit over it well.



Also, I think it is better not to attach the gauges firmly in place so that you can't slide them out from the front. It is alot easier to slide the old gauge out should it ever need replacing with out having to pull the whole pillar cover.



Jim

 

[ILIANBG]

Thank you everybody, for the great info. It is priceless to be able to use other people's knowledge. I really appreciate it.

Bob4x4, thanks and I will check the SoCalRRams site, and hope to see you soon.

Have a good holiday weekend guys.

 

[GeraldGordon]

I cut a pice of my oem piller out and supper glue it to the autometer piller I just use the pice that had the top mounting tab and youer dash will hold the bottem in.



Gerald

 

[REDDODGE]

I have an autometer pillar and it fits better with out the stock piece which i didnt want to carve up in case i wanted to take them out. The rubber weatherstripping holds the door side pretty well,just put a screw high up by the windshield and you will never see it. I have been asked by some people if it came from dodge with guages. see what works best for you though