gauges, gauges, gauges?

[TexBamBam]

That was too easy... thanks

 

[Rocky in KC]

got mine at a farm & home---going to install mine---real soon!! R

 

[TexBamBam]

I found the tap as Sears but it was a 1/8 27 NC... . not sure if that is the same but the threads match.

 

[GFrance]

The NC stands for national course, thats not the one you need. You want the NF national fine thread tap.

 

[nickleinonen]

NPTF = National Pipe Thread Fine = NPT for short. Pipe thread is pipe thread. You got the right tap

nptf is not national pipe thread fine... the "f" is fuel [or dryseal]. when you get into pipe threads, there is no course or fine threads, just the same thread sizes [although 1/8" npt looks fine, it's just a different die used. ]



the nptf has a slightly sharper thread to it, and seals liquids better with no sealing compounds than a standard npt as the sharper thread digs into the root of the matching thread more tightly. but they are completely interchangeable between npt and nptf

 

[GFrance]

Well I guess I learned something new this morning. It pays to get out of bed early. So does the fine & course only apply to nuts & bolts? I guess I never gave it much thought when I went to the plumbing store that pipe threads didn't come in course & fine DUH.

Thanks for the education Nickleinonen.

 

[Rocky in KC]

Thermocoupler/pyro placment?

Hope I said that right!!!--I see where some folks use a right angle drill, and place the sender closer to the turbo!!(pre-turbo)

I also have seen where they place the sender higher up, between 3 and 4--and use a straight drill, and drill straight down!! (pre turbo)

My question is this---I do NOT have 90 degree drill motor--will going in from the top be OK?????

Also what temp do you want to shut down at (pre turbo) and what is an aceptable temp for pulling up hill ect?????

thanks, Rocky

 

[TexBamBam]

Sears did not have the 1/8 NPT. . only the NC

 

[TexBamBam]

Sears did not have it...nether did Pep-Boys... any ideas???

 

[jakemeister]

When i put my pyro in i used some anti-sieze just to make sure i can get it back out down the road... dont know if it matters or not just my 2 cents...

 

[Rocky in KC]

thanks for your . 02cents---I did just that---still working on it as we speak--Rocky

 

[LesStallings]

Sears has it as part of a larger Craftsman set.

 

[LesStallings]

Hope I said that right!!!--I see where some folks use a right angle drill, and place the sender closer to the turbo!!(pre-turbo)

I also have seen where they place the sender higher up, between 3 and 4--and use a straight drill, and drill straight down!! (pre turbo)

My question is this---I do NOT have 90 degree drill motor--will going in from the top be OK?????

Also what temp do you want to shut down at (pre turbo) and what is an aceptable temp for pulling up hill ect?????

thanks, Rocky

Drilling straight down works well, just take your time and use grease to collect as many of the shavings as possible. Use only sharp drill bits and drill a smaller pilot hole first. Be sure to use the exact size drill bit called for by the tap and hold it steady. Use the tap with gease also. Tap a short distance, test the pyro fitting and then tap a little more. You can tap too far with a pipe tap.



When all the drilling and tapping is complete, use a small magnet to collect the little pieces that fall into the manifold. One of the advantages of going straight in (usually between #3 and #4) is that anything that falls in just sits on the horizontal section just below the hole and is easy to remove. .



There has been much discussion on which cylinder is the hottest and therefore the most limiting. Number 6 seems to be the concensus. Since my pyro is located between #3-4, I personally use 1,250-1,300°F as my steady pull limit. The hot rodders say short burst to higher temperatures are OK due to the very limited time at the high temps.

 

[nickleinonen]

Well I guess I learned something new this morning. It pays to get out of bed early. So does the fine & course only apply to nuts & bolts? I guess I never gave it much thought when I went to the plumbing store that pipe threads didn't come in course & fine DUH.

Thanks for the education Nickleinonen.

usually the fine & course threads only exist with the nuts and bolts. with sae, you get the usual NF and NC threads, but you also can get NS threads which are "special" threads, somewhere between fine and course. .



with metric threads, you can get fine and course, and anything between them [metric thread pitch can have differences in 0. 25 steps per threads per mm]



with pipe threads, you usually only have the NPT threads to deal with, but you can the tapered type that is self sealing, but also the straight [non tapered] pipe thread that is commonly used in bulkhead fittings and the threadded part of a pipe union.



you can also get into the british standard pipe thread [BSPT] and british standard pipe parallel [BSPP]. they are not interchangeable with npt fittings [different pitch on the threads]



there are also some metric tapered fittings like a pipe thread that are self sealing [i think the fill plug on the nv5600's is that]

 

[GFrance]

Thanks for the education Nick. Just don't quiz me on it in 10 miniutes.

 

[CStansbury]

Sears did not have it...nether did Pep-Boys... any ideas???

I got mine from my good old local Ace Hardware. They have everything under the sun. Screw Lowes and Home Depot when it comes to looking for special tools, fittings, etc... My Ace also had the 1/8 NPT 90 degree to 1/8 compression fitting for my fuel isolator