Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Gauges

[Rebel_Horseman]

Well my gauges came in today and I started on them this afternoon. I almost had a screaming hissy fit installing the banjo underneath the fuel filter, but I think I have it done (Lord please let me have that one done). Was going to install a fiting into the test port on the drivers side for my boost gauge but the dern bushing wouldn't fit in the tight space. So now it looks like I'm going to have to drill and tap for boost adn EGT. I'm considering installing the EGT post turbo for ease of installation. If things go right (which they probably won't) tomorrow I should have the install complete. Looking forward to getting it done so I'll know if I need to buy an dinstall a new lift pump. What EGT numbers should I be aware of if I install post turbo? Any suggestions before I tackle this thing tomorrow? Anyone in the Shreveport area wanna come get dirty and greasy with me tomorrow afternoon?



Reb [><]

 

[Truckie]

Rebel_Horseman Don't quote me on this but I have been told and even red on here that if you go post turbo you will be about 600 degrees off, so I really don't recommend doing that.

I just put a set of gages in my truck and it was not that bad. To tell you the truth drilling in to the exhaust manifold just before the turbo is not that bad at all, it drill pretty easy. You can use one of them spring loaded spring punch and mark the spot to drill and then let he rip. When you drill in the manifold do it in the center of the two pieces that form one I put mine in the center of the rear and have had no problems. Don't worry bought the metal shavings just stick a magnet down there and you will get a few pieces out not much to worry bought, and if you want to you can put a shop vac over the hole and suck it, if not just use the magnet. Trust me you will do fine. Sorry I for got what size pipe tap you need. '

Hope this helps.

Mike

 

[R-N-R]

Have you considered using The Turbo Boost Gauge Fitting from Piers?



I have seen as much a 600* spread between EGT gauges.

The tricky part is that the temperature difference is not constant.

It seems that more damage can be done by over-heating than by under-cooling (shutdown).

 

[jrandol]

Go Pre-Turbo if bombs are in your future. That'll give you the true vitals of your heat/egt's. Pre-Turbo is only good for knowing when to shut er down.



Jeff

 

[fyrescott]

Pre turbo all the way. It is easier than you think. I removed the four nuts, and just pulled it away. Not even going past the studs, this allowed just enough room to slip in a small tube connected to a shop vac so all the left over shavings could be removed. The manifold drills and taps like butter. I was nervous as heck drilling on a brand new truck, but with all the great info that came from TDR it turned out to be a piece of cake.

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

I guess that's the reason i was going to go post-turbo... its scares the poop out of me to drill the manifold... but if it's fairly simple I can do it. My biggest concern is the shavings issue. It's not that difficult to drill a hole and tap it, just worried about getting metal shavings in my turbo. Gonna order that fitting from Piers... that definately looks like the easy route to me. How does it install? It looks to me like it replaces a bolt or something on the driver's side of the engine next to the valve cover.



Reb [<>]

 

[SCox]

Boost fitting

The "boost" bolt is super easy to do, takes about 2 minutes tops. The instructions will show you where to put it. Follow instructions for how much to torque the bolt to, it is hollow and easy to break. And again, don't worry at all about shavings falling into your exhaust manifold, put a little grease on the tip of your drill bit, then use a magnet to get the rest, simple and not scary at all.



Steve

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

Now WHY in the...

CRAP couldn't the rest of the gauge install have been as easy as the boost bolt??? GEEZ! Well I must say I'm proud of myself for not cursing too much, or having an aneurisim (sp?), or blowing myself up. They're done and they look really cool at night. Just need to get used to peeking around those things to see what's coming. Now I get to install my new LP since the one on there's going out. The fun never stops.



Thanks for all your halp guys. Couldn't have done it without the advice and info I gained from here.



Reb [><]

 

[OTRPU]

Hi all, I have AutoMeter guages, Boost, transmission & EGT. Wanting to install a Fuel Pressure guage. Does anybody have a cheaper answer for a 30 or 35 lb guage than the Diesel Dynamics $250 or so answer? Most FP guages I see are either 15 or 100 lb. Have heard that if you open up the lines on the LP that it's easy to get over 15 lbs of pressure. For my application I think the 100 lb guage would be a joke, but afraid the 15 lb guage my come up alittle short. Any reasonable solutions out there? Or what are you seeing that have done this?



Cheers,

Steve J.

 

[duaneparks]

Steve,



I bought my Isspro FP gauge from www.wildcatdiesel.com . Rod is great to deal with and will shoot straight with you.



His kit which includes a 30 psi gauge, lines, and cutoff valve runs considerably less than $250, IIRC. Running fuel into the cab is no big deal, especially with that cutoff valve.



HTH. Not affiliated, just a satisfied customer.



Duane

 

[OTRPU]

Thanks Duane, I just got the beast outta hock from Reliance Truck & Auto, runs like a scalded a$$ Ape. Need to hit the road afternoon Saturday, no time to do more. Still need to get the ABS sensors or whatever to get that working again. They say the want to pull the rear dif cover and take a look. I told them if in there might as well throw in a temp sender and make a double guage outta the transmission temp, think I need a DPDT switch to work one guage off two senders. Probably replace the cover with the fancy aluminum one that's larger capacity. Can't imagine needing an off position, but maybe. Would like to keep all the switches the same look, but the little lighted diode switch that comes with the PAC brake isn't available DP. Anybody know of one that might be a close match? I prefer lighted switches, course that one will be on one or the other guage all the time so guess light isn't important. The 4 inch exhaust really cooled down the EGTs. Can't get over 1,250 now, but unloaded. If hitting this temp unloaded will probably still have to back out of it with a load in the hills. Looks like bigger turbo is in my future. So far, the fan clutch seems to be keeping the coolant temps where they belong. Still going to do the custom radiator when it's available.



Cheers,

Steve J.

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

What Readings Should I be Getting?

I installed my new LP this afternoon and went for a drive (after an hour and a half battle filled with cussing, tool trowing, and bleeding hands).



My EGT gauge changes at a fast rate. If I have low RPM's the gauge climbs quickly and I maxed out at 1100. When the truck returns to idle the needle falls sharply and goes to about 300* if I'm idling at a stoplight. Does this sound normal?



Boost gauge is fun to watch. It doesn't move until I get to about 1500 RPM's then climbs quickly to a max of around 20. Push in the clutch or let off the go pedal and the needle drops to 0. This seems consistent with what everyone else has said.



Fuel pressure. Before I installed my new LP the gauge would sit at 5 or 6 then drop to about 3 while driving around the block. After installing the new LP, the gauge goes to about 11 or 12 at idle and down to 8 if I'm cruising or on it heavy. From what I read I thought the pressure was supposed to be about 14 or 15 psi at idle. Maybe I have a crimped line? Thoughts?



All I can say is I'm glad to have that behind me and now I have peace of mind and some cool gauges to keep me entertained. I really like to watch the boost climb, although it may give me motion sickness in the hills! Oo.



Reb [><]



EDIT: I went to check things out some more and the fuel pressure was still not where I thoguht it should be. Opened the hood with the engine running and noticed fuel running out of the bottom of the fitting on the filter. Tighetened the fitting as much as I could and stopped that leak, as well as a small leak at the tube from the LP to the fuel filter. Pressure is still the same. What gives?