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Gear indicator issues

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Transducer or Governor

Engine dies...

@cerberusiam
Sonnax sells now built 47re valve bodys that match all 48re features.
They do so because of the shortage in real 48re valve bodys.
I've seen them when i was looking for upgrades lately.
 
RE the $5/quart. I realized that was not retail price after I sent it. Sometimes you can sweet talk the manager into a different pricing structure they use for large accounts.
 
Talked to a trans guy in Fullerton,CA & he said he wouldn't touch the trans with the issues I'm having. Too many miles on (220000 +/-)
$6000 for a rebuild with Goerend parts.
Probably a good trans when done...but $$$$
 
Well there is sure a lot between the high end ultimate mega Transmission and a stock one.
Do you think you need the high end ultimate mega Transmission?

I would my self not spend 6 grand in a transmission and I'm really into quality and picky how it is executed.
The ones here that know me personally could confirm that.
 
To be honest--no I don't need a high end ultimate mega Transmission. The way I look at it is the stock one has lasted this long.
I do have the PacBrake so I don't how relevant that would be.

I have heard of upgrading the TC as I see in your SIG you did that.
Like you I am into quality also.
 
Superdawg, Sounds like the bullet did the trick. Thinking I may do the same as I think it beats doing a rebuild. transmission works fine except for issues stated.
Did you get everything from DNJ?
btw..I am in CA also....not for long.
Just retired :)
 
I used the Transgo parking detent bullet- a little different design. Different roads but they probably take you to the same place.
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?product_id=94&pageactionprev=viewpricelist&category_id=&keyword=
I just thought of something. The parking detent kit came with three pieces, enough to do three transmissions. PM me your address and I will send you one no charge. It was only about $15 for all three IIRC.
I bought parts over time from all over for this job. Years ago, I had installed the DNJ shift solenoid upgrade so I went with their replacement solenoid and gasket since I already had the base piece.
I also replaced the seal for the shifter rod that goes through the case while the VB was out. It was not leaking but it probably would have if I did not replace it. Cheap.
 
Cerb mentioned this in post #6 about rotating the wheel to get the VB out and back in. Watch this video:
This is the part that is very helpful to have an extra person to turn the rear wheel to allow that shift rod to go all the way back so you can line up the VB to the right spot for installation.
 
copy of parts so far (see photo)
still need: trans control harness, BD kit-transducer, DNJ solenoid, filter, fluid.
I think that's it.
Let me know what you think.

Thanks again for all the info guys!!

Screenshot 2019-02-19 10.57.33.png
 
To my knowledge you need to pull the transmission to install the rear band servo.

And yes, the Single Disc BD Converter i use is a big plus for drivability.
I would recommend this.
 
I might have listed the servo instead of the servo cover as Cerb suggested.
To replace the Band Strut Anchor I assume I have to re-torque it---Band adjustment?
I did not purchase parts yet.
Don't intend to pull the trans.
SuperDawg was very kind & sent me a spare Bullet fix also..that is really nice of him!
If & when I pull the trans I will replace the rear main seal also----but not for a while yet.
 
You can do the servo cover or the full billet no leak piston, its your choice. The servo cover addresses the leakage around the pin that gets worse with age plus it doesn't deflect and leak like the stocker under higher pressures. You have to 90% disassemble the front servo to do the cover so if budget allows the TCS billet no leak piston is a better piece all around. Just do not use a Super Servo in there. ;)

Yes, you will have to reset the front band, 72 inch lbs then back 1.74 turns and test drive from there. Look at your front band when you are there and see if it is looking worn, at that point you might want to consider putting in a slip in band.
 
That BD kit looks like it contains the soleniod and the transducer. If that is so, then you do not need the DNJ kit. The DNJ kit has their own manifold and comes with a solenoid but not a transducer. If you look them up you will see what I mean.

DNJ Components
DNJ-DCF1
Regular price$144.50
We have been producing and selling these parts for over eight years now. Being the original and first on the market to have a reliable governor pressure solenoid that has proven itself time and time again to outlast and outperform all others.
This dodge governor pressure solenoid conversion manifold allows the customer to be able to replace their OEM or OEM Replacements with a far more superior and reliable solenoid. This product fits any dodge governor pressure solenoid for 42RE, 44RE, 46RE, 47RE, and 48RE. The GM BorgWarner EPC Solenoid has a much better coil and spooled valve design which will help make the end results to have better:
  1. Reliability: No more 2nd gear starts or inconsistent shifts. With this part you can count on years and years of reliability in all applications from pull rigs to drag trucks.
  2. Performance: With this conversion kit the transmission can handle more base line pressure and have greater shift quality. You can increase the line pressure only by adding a performance valve body component kit (SKTFOD-DSL or TFOD-HD2) both are offered on our site. Increased line pressure does not cause flooding of this solenoid, like what happens with the OEM solenoid.
  3. Durability: With the manifold being made of 6061 Aircraft Grade billet aluminum you will never see warping or leakage of any kind. Also, the GM EPC was built to outlast the transmissions they were designed for.

BD Pressure Valve Body Electronics Upgrade Dodge 47RE/48RE 2000-2007
Part # 1060605

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Points well taken. I don't intend to pull the trans so the servo & cover will be something to later along with other mods/repairs.
Thanks for educating me on the parts & part venders. I didn't realize there were so many upgarded parts to go in these trannys!!
 
The front servo and\or cover can be replaced with the VB out, trans in. The rear servo requires more disassembly but unless it is jammed it is not as problematic as the front servo. The front servo sealing and reaction to pressure is key to the 2-3 shift quality. That is why it is the first to be upgraded and really should be addressed with any shift kit that raises pressures. The 2-3 shift is front band release and direct clutch pack apply happening at the SAME time, timing is critical and the front servo is the key to making it as smooth as possible. It is all about travel time, surface area of the servo, and leakage.

The front band is also an integral part here as it has to hold to a certain point then release enough to not get a bind up. The stock front band is a flex band and they stretch over time leading to accelerated wear which leads ultimately to slippage and poor shift quality. I suggest examining that band as closely as possible and if there ANY question replace it with a slip in band, they are heavier in the mounting area that deflects and have more surface area for holding. You can pretty much check your band condition by setitng the fornt band and looking at the threads left on the center bolt. If you are down to 1 or less I would replace the band.
 
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