Gear indicator issues

[Ozymandias]

Points well taken. I don't intend to pull the trans so the servo & cover will be something to later along with other mods/repairs.
Thanks for educating me on the parts & part venders. I didn't realize there were so many upgarded parts to go in these trannys!!

Well yes you can upgrade those old 727 to withstand even a sled puller with 2000+ Hp and the same amount of torque.
Everything is possible.

 

[Herman8r]

This is getting kinda fun in a weird sort of way! I like the education part of this along with the wise advise. One of the reasons I am considering this is because I like this truck. Only issues I have had are front end linkage and steering boxes....but partly my fault with large tires (now gone).
I have the opportunity to get a new truck at a discount (father in law retired employee) but don't see the reason to spend the $$$$$.
Besides--I have a invested interest with the upgrades.

I can see how easy it is to spend cash on upgraded trans parts!!
Time to order parts!!

 

[cerberusiam]

I can see how easy it is to spend cash on upgraded trans parts!!

You bet! When you get to the billet cover TC's and the billet shafts and the higher count clutch packs to hold the TQ it gets more funner (aka $$$$).

I keep thinking I would like a 2010-2012 Laramie with the crew cab, bells, and whistles. I really want to play with a 68RFE and the REVMax builds plus the auto stick towing to see of it is as good as has been detailed. Of course that is $5-6k of transmission and at least a couple grand in other parts plus deletes and custom tuning to get what I want.

 

[Herman8r]

Took the truck to a trans guy near me. I have used him for a lot of trans work in the past. Turns out he work with the guys at TransGo when he was younger!
Internals in the trans is damaged due to the band wear on the drum. Doing a rebuild. He is installing a billet TC and other parts. Some Transco parts, some Sonnex parts, etc.
I asked him if I could change the rear main seal because of a very slight leak....he said "of course". So in reading about the installation of the seal I keep finding reference to "using a new clamping ring". I think this relates to the flexplate/clutch connection but I am not sure. Any suggestions??
Thanks, HJR

 

[cerberusiam]

I have no idea what that means, there isn't any such critter on the rear main seal, auto or manual, I can think of.

Make sure he replaces the o-ring seal for the cam gallery, or, cleans and seals it with RTV. Failure to address it usually ends with leaks.

 

[Ozymandias]

He talks about Engines rear crank seal i guess.

 

[Herman8r]

I found this part:
https://www.ebay.com/p/Cummins-3908337-Flexplate-Clamping-Ring/1979364330?iid=152245543936&chn=ps

Also, I found mention of it in the 2006 Service Manual on page 9-2760 regarding Rear Seal Replacment.
I attached a screenshot of that page

 

[Herman8r]

Cerb, I am replacing the main seal without taking the cover off----well....so far.

 

[cerberusiam]

Hookay, now I know what a clamping ring is. Not what I know it has but that's ok.

Probably done a dozen of them over the years and never replaced one of those unless the flex plate was shelled also. Not going to hurt a thing to replace it.

If you have many miles at all the crank is going to be grooved and more leaks are in its future. Every CR we have done so far has needed the sleeve and oversize seal kit from Cummins. That and I always pull the seal holder and replace it that way to insure alignment on the crank. There is enough movement in the holder and deviation in seals that they can still leak if you do not recenter the seal and holder. A new gasket behind it with RTV in the corners and on the pan and it good for the long run.

You have to drop the engine adapter to do that so the crank seal is there to address as it is another source of leaks that need addressed after some miles and heat cycles.

 

[Herman8r]

I appreciate your advise and direction.
I assume I need the installation tool to install & center the seal/cover? And pick up a cam seal & cover seal also?

 

[Herman8r]

By replacing the seal holder you are refering to removing the cover and installing the seal and centering the cover/seal holder?
Thanks again!

 

[cerberusiam]

Yes, install the seal in the holder and center the assembly. The sleeve and seal should have an installation tool that ll help center everything otherwise you just have to slide it on and keep it about where it should sit.

The cam seal is just an o-ring in the engine adapter, even with a new ring I add a bead of RTV just to make sure it seals.

 

[Herman8r]

Got it. It took a bit for me to get my head wrapped around it.
Saw a blow up view of everything----the light finally came on!!!
Cheers!

 

[Monroefiredog1]

The front servo and\or cover can be replaced with the VB out, trans in. The rear servo requires more disassembly but unless it is jammed it is not as problematic as the front servo. The front servo sealing and reaction to pressure is key to the 2-3 shift quality. That is why it is the first to be upgraded and really should be addressed with any shift kit that raises pressures. The 2-3 shift is front band release and direct clutch pack apply happening at the SAME time, timing is critical and the front servo is the key to making it as smooth as possible. It is all about travel time, surface area of the servo, and leakage.

The front band is also an integral part here as it has to hold to a certain point then release enough to not get a bind up. The stock front band is a flex band and they stretch over time leading to accelerated wear which leads ultimately to slippage and poor shift quality. I suggest examining that band as closely as possible and if there ANY question replace it with a slip in band, they are heavier in the mounting area that deflects and have more surface area for holding. You can pretty much check your band condition by setitng the fornt band and looking at the threads left on the center bolt. If you are down to 1 or less I would replace the band.

Hi Cerberusiam, You seem to be the expert on this forum, so can I ask you a few questions? I just bought a 06 CTD with 158000 miles, the owner said that he changed the oil, oil, air and fuel filters every 6000 miles since he had the truck, which was 6/07. However, he never touched the trans. I know it is well on its way out probably, because of his neglect, although it seems to be shifting okay for now. I am planning on changing the fluid, filter, and adjusting the bands in the next few days. I have seen both sides on here saying to use a 96 filter and someone saying not to use it. What do you think about the filter? What are your thoughts on anything else that I can possibly do that won't cost me a arm and a leg right now, that might make it last a while longer? I am sure that I will have to replace it in the near future, but I can't afford it right now. I am also worried about the the cp3 and injectors. So, I have ordered a dual 2 micron filter to try to save the injectors and pump as long as I can. What are your thought on anything else that I should address to maybe make it last a while longer before I have to replace the injectors, cp3, and transmission? I read thru your post above and I see that you recommended replacing the front servo kit, which is probably a great idea. But do you think it will help in my situation? Like I said I am not sure that I want to invest too much money in it, without knowing how long it is going to be before I have to replace it. Thanks in advance for your assistance with this?

 

[cerberusiam]

I would do an injector cleaning then get on an additive regimen. I like Power Service and 2SO, has treated me well. CP-3 should be good for a long time without contamination, I have well over 300k and have ran tuned and larger injectors since 100k. Injectors are a crap shoot but unless you find issues drive it with the additives and good fuel.

If the truck has not been used hard the trans is capable of 300k. If fluid has never been changed it is time for a replacement, you can do it yourself but a lot of oil changes places can hook up a machine that will do it cleanly. I would have them drop the pan and change the filter then do fluid exchange. Either filter will work fine, I use both with no issues. Drive and see if you have issues with the trans before doing anything to it.

 

[Monroefiredog1]

I would do an injector cleaning then get on an additive regimen. I like Power Service and 2SO, has treated me well. CP-3 should be good for a long time without contamination, I have well over 300k and have ran tuned and larger injectors since 100k. Injectors are a crap shoot but unless you find issues drive it with the additives and good fuel.

If the truck has not been used hard the trans is capable of 300k. If fluid has never been changed it is time for a replacement, you can do it yourself but a lot of oil changes places can hook up a machine that will do it cleanly. I would have them drop the pan and change the filter then do fluid exchange. Either filter will work fine, I use both with no issues. Drive and see if you have issues with the trans before doing anything to it.

What type of injector cleaning would you recommend? I am currently using Power Service additive now. I am not having any issues with the trans currently, but I would think that might not be too far away, due to the fluid not being changed.
Thanks for you answers.

 

[cerberusiam]

CRC is a good choice for injector cleaner, Sea Foam works as well but only in the filter housing for a cleaner. Fill the fuel filter cannister full, start it up and run for 30 seconds, shut off and let sit for 24 hours. Then run a double does of power service and 2SO the next couple tanks to help flush it all thru and help knock asphaltene's and carbon loose. A couple 100 miles with a heavy load would help also.

 

[Monroefiredog1]

CRC is a good choice for injector cleaner, Sea Foam works as well but only in the filter housing for a cleaner. Fill the fuel filter cannister full, start it up and run for 30 seconds, shut off and let sit for 24 hours. Then run a double does of power service and 2SO the next couple tanks to help flush it all thru and help knock asphaltene's and carbon loose. A couple 100 miles with a heavy load would help also.

Are you talking about this CRC product?
Diesel Fuel Therapy® Diesel Injector Cleaner Plus or this one
Diesel 1-Tank Power Renew?

 

[cerberusiam]

Injector cleaner not the renew, or, use Sea Foam.

 

[sag2]

Diesel fuel therapy is the same as the Mopar branded fuel injector cleaner. Also be very careful adding anything directly to the fuel canister. You will be adding it to the clean side of the system, so unless the filter housing is brand new or taken off and cleaned, you risk getting debris on the clean side.