gear shifter

[bowhunter]

I'm getting things ready for next weekend. I'm putting the Southbend 0090 OFE in.



I have a heated shop, transmission jack and help lined up. I have to get the clutch in next weekend, since my truck is my daily driver.



My Dodge shop manual shows a special tool needed to take off the gear shifter handle. The handle has to come off when you drop the transmission out. Does anyone have experience hear? Is there a nut or keeper that you can reach without using the "special" tool?



I am not intending on draining the transmission or separating the transfer case from the transmission. I have a big transmission jack that I will use to lower the whole works out. In one piece.



Might be a dumb question, but I won't have time to waste once I get things tore apart.



Thanks

 

[JTeague]

Handle removal

Once you get the shifter boot removed, there should be 4 bolts holding the whole shifter mechanism to the transmission. Remove the bolts and it should come right off.

 

[pwknapp]

When you get the boot slid up on the shaft you can take a screwdriver and pop the retaining ring down and I believe counter clockwise. Its spring loaded and has to turn about 1/4 to 1/2 inch to let the shifter come straight up.

 

[B-52]

My shop manual showed the same special tool - definitely not needed. As JTeague says, 4 bolts and the entire transmission lid comes off. You will want to completely seal this hole with duct tape before trying to remove the transmission. As you'll see, there is minimal clearance between the driveshaft tunnel and the transmission and it will take a bit of jostling to separate and/or realign the transmission.



Just my $. 02, but by FAR the biggest PITA when doing my clutch job was reinstalling the transmission crossmember. There are threads on here about using a jack to push the frame rails apart - this did not give me the "warm and fuzzies". Getting the ends of the crossmember aligned "just so" to start them between the frame rails, a big prybar, and many whacks from the 3-lb. pitch adjuster ended up doing the trick for me.



Good luck... .

 

[JTeague]

Crossmember

I'm with B-52, the crossmember can surely be a PITA! It is a wedge fit in the frame. The best way I found to remove/replace it was to to remove the the mounting nuts from the crossmember for the trans mount, jack the transmission as high as it will go, remove the mount from the trans, and beat x-member upward then back. You will have to twist it sideways a little to get it out. If you are going to take the transfer/transmission out in 1 piece be careful!! It will try to squish your head if you dont have it supported good because it is so akward.

 

[Alaskaskiff]

I used an extra long hydraulic jack to spread the frame and drop the crossmember.



The Xfer case will leak fluid out the back, so you might want to tape the back up.



Xfer Case + transmission is rather unwieldy. You take a good chance of nailing your hydraulic clutch cylinder either during install or removal. I made a plate with a set screw that uses hydraulic cylinder bolts to hold release fork in place. Some tension on the set screw and you can keep it lined up.



Good Luck

 

[rhoads]

shift lever

The shift lever special tool is not needed,if you are say on the weak side OR not set strattle the shifted ,grasp the extension lever with both hands and gite it an upward pop motion and it will hit you in the chin,for ease the nest time you want to remove before you reinstall said lever on stub shaft coat the latter with vasoline. then it will pop off with one hand. Too remove stub shaft throw a shof rag onto the retainer with two thumbs push down and twist counter clockwise. for reinstall seams to take mor effert?? or my thumbs were tired!!

 

[Big_DQ]

Kurt, Call me on the nextel and I'll try to help you out.

Don

 

[bowhunter]

Thanks all for the info. I am set-up for Friday night and all day Saturday. Sounds funny, but the only thing I'm thinking will be a PITA is the crossmember and the gear shifter handle.



Anyway thanks for the advice. I'll let you know how it goes and how the Southbend OFE holds up.



Big DQ, I'll call you this evening to talk about the jig party and to let you know where I'll be Friday night and Saturday, if you want to run by. thanks









Kurt

 

[bowhunter]

The clutch install went good. I had everything out Friday night in about 3 hours--in between all the refreshment breaks. I came back Saturday morning and had the clutch in 3 hours. So for a rookie I guess it didn't take all that long. I know Chrysler allocates 6 hours @ $55/hour in their shop manuals for clutch swap.



The crossmember fell out with three licks from a 3 lb sledge, and went back in with no trouble. I guess I'm lucky it wasn't real rusty under there.



BTW---Thanks Peter--the 0090 OFE is everything you said it would be. It hasn't slipped yet and is extremely smooth. The clutch (chatters) very little. The truck pulls very hard now, any smokes like a prostock tractor at a tractor pull. but not quite as much as Big DQ's rig.



Now for the 370's and the 16cm housing.....



Does anyone remember who posted that they had made a billet aluminum/stainless shifter knob? I need one. My "help" overtightened my stock knob and it is now shaped like an egg and the center is bulged out. It rattles pretty loud when I go down the road.



Don--My Nextel is out. . I'll call you @ home



Thanks



Kurt



Thanks for the advice... .