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Gelled Fuel and Damaged Injectors?

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Number 6 injector coil failed on my 07 5.9 in 2015 at 104,000 miles. I did a full replacement with those miles and used all new Bosch OEMs (0445120238) with new Bosch feed tubes. Filtration was upgraded with Mopar severe duty fuel filter by the tank and a Cat final filter between the OEM filter and the CP3. Went on a 4000 mile camping trip right afterwards and it had good power and got good economy, 21 mpg unloaded is not uncommon.

The following winter we had a week of -5 F temps and I got a batch of fuel (biodiesel) that was not treated. Even though I run additives to help (Power Service or Stanadyne), the fuel station messed up. I didn’t get stranded, I’m pretty well convinced the gelled mix I got likely damaged my new injectors due to the hiccupping and jerking that happened on my way to and from work. The first indication of trouble later was as temps warmed enough to not require the glow heater, it would start and pop and wheeze white smoke until I started moving. Once moving, the smoke quit and appeared to work well, just not as crisp as it was before the gelled fuel. I installed a new FCA and it made an improvement, but still get a little smoke at startup – certainly under a minute, just seconds. Subsequent unloaded highway trips have it getting 21 mpg and EGTs are 500-600 F when cruising, and there is good power with no smoke when it is needed. I’ve avoided anything that raises exhaust temperatures but so far it has run fine. It starts instantly hot or cold, otherwise works ok. Lift pump pressure has stayed at 9-10 psi and rail pressures are fine too.

I just had a shop do a cylinder contribution and cylinder kill test using a Snap On tool which helped confirm I have some issues, which did not surprise me. The contribution test showed cylinder #3 at 88% with all the rest at 102%. The kill test was more revealing. Here is a plot showing idle speed as each cylinder is killed followed by a plot of the amount of speed drop.

Speedw_Kill.jpg



DropAmount.jpg

Cylinders 2,3,&4 did not show much over 20 rpm drop while 1,5,&6 were quite noticeable, so I’ll probably opt for another new (not reman) set of Bosch units to correct it.

So my question here is – has anyone experienced a problem like this with gelled fuel? I’ve tried convincing myself this was not possible, but the gelled biodiesel was the turning point.
 
Sounds like you’ve done a good job protecting the injectors with the severe duty kit, and the cat final. Is the severe kit heated? I’m surprised that anything in the fuel that could harm the injectors got past that setup.
I understand the cylinder balance test, but I think a return volume test is more valid.
My experience is with a radical blend of bio that gives major headaches in single digit temps, and while it’s a different fuel system involved, we’ve never lost an injector to separated bio fuel, we just plug solid the 30 micron Davco water separator, which just shuts the engine.
 
Sounds like you’ve done a good job protecting the injectors with the severe duty kit, and the cat final. Is the severe kit heated? I’m surprised that anything in the fuel that could harm the injectors got past that setup.
I understand the cylinder balance test, but I think a return volume test is more valid.
My experience is with a radical blend of bio that gives major headaches in single digit temps, and while it’s a different fuel system involved, we’ve never lost an injector to separated bio fuel, we just plug solid the 30 micron Davco water separator, which just shuts the engine.
Yes, the severe duty filter right after the tank has the heater wired in, but it is a good point. I'm considering some filter wrap heaters I see being offered for systems running fuel made from animal fats and deep fryers. I spent 3 winters keeping diesels running on Alaska's North Slope and we had fuel at the other end of the spectrum. Fuel came right out of a refinery on the slope that was highly refined but super dry, we called it arctic diesel. We used fuel lube additives to cut back on fuel system failures from dry fuel, but some would add engine/atf oils so they added some supplemental fuel filter heaters. I used to be able to get #1 and that worked fine for the winter but they don't offer it anymore.

I have no concerns over the filters doing their job, I've cut them apart a couple of times and know the first two pretty much capture the lions share of any contamination.
 
If I used contribution tests to sell injectors as the gage to replace Injectors I would be a Multi-Billionaire , Plus snap-on is below par for the tool to use.

Those contribution/Balance test should only be used for touchtone purposes only, They change regularly and are NOT accurate. The new injectors within weeks results will change/very according to prior conditions

I don't recommender any filter between the CP3 and factory canister, last week 1 owner blew up his CP3 form the fur that left on the media on spin-on filter.

Before factory canister is good, and to support my Opinion NONE of the current system on modern day diesel have spin-on filter after the cartridge style filters.

I can provide pictures for all the nay-sayers especially of the increase $$$$$ of my bank account, Yes its rare that the makers does NOT clean the media fur off, but it happens, most sellers and owner's have NO idea that the GP on most CP3 produces 25HG, Modded ones produces 30HG.

This post is for those that use discernment won't be taken advantage by shops that practice such means for profit.
 
Probably ran water the the system and that will easily kill the injectors. Too much water and all 4 filters will not get it all unless they actually stop the flow if plugged then truck is dead so most bypass.

It looks 1 injector may be the issue, might try replacing it and see if problems disappear. Contribution tests are tricky and if they are not done correctly the results are less than ideal. Specifically, engine must be completely up to operating temp, and test MUST be run in 3 minutes of coming to idle or the readings start drifting. Generally by 5 minutes it can be all over the board.
 
What % biodiesel?

The potential for severe engine damage from fuel system problems, ie bad injectors, is extremely high. I would suggest that if a diesel engine isn't running properly one should park it and get a tow. Even then the damage can already be done. It's just a new line of thinking to try and save an expensive injection system and engine vs. a AAA membership/ ins towing option/ cell phone towing plan/ etc., few hours time for a tow truck and lacking a membership a couple hundred bucks for a tow.

In this case a filter inspection is in order. Does the fuel smell like gasoline? Any water coming out of the drains? How does the fuel look? Be careful with the "evidence of" filters as this damage can be on the fuel station/supplier.

Where is the lift pump PSI sensor? Would it indicate a pressure drop if any of the fuel filters gelled? I assume it would, assume you didn't have a gelling problem as you didn't mention loosing lift pump pressure, and thus suggest you look at fuel quality and perhaps cold starting in general like a bad grid heater system. Maybe one of the fuel heaters burned out, bad fuse, bad ground...

Biodiesel is all well and fine till the moment you get a bad batch and wipe out the entire fuel system including the fuel tank and everything to the injectors. Just something to be aware of.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/ulsd-and-biodiesel-exposed.248698/
 
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