Gen set to power engine block heater

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I'll be going to school in Colorado for the spring semester and I won't have access to a power outlet to plug in my block heater since I'll be in the dorms. Does anyone make a small gen. set that would power the heater but not suck fuel so I'd have to run out there in the middle of the night to refuel it?

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Mark Callahan

1998. 5 3500 4x4 24V 5spd, Geno's Muffler Kit, Chrome exhaust, Western Hauler Headache Rack, Chrome Rocker Panels, A-Pillar Mounted Boost and Oil Temp Gauges, No Turbo Silencer Ring (Yeah Baby!)

 

[Archive]

Deabate-able ?, 1st is the draw of the heater. 2nd is the output of the genset. If you run low amps and the gen set is close enuff matched it will run at full load. If it runs at 1/2 load it will run longer on the same full amount. Only you can test the loading in the temps used - might get avg temps in area from them and you could still use a timer. Let the genset idle till the timer goes on and then the heater will start. A small genset (w/o doing any calcs) of about 2k watts that could run this way with a HEAVY duty timer (I use an outdoor lighting one) could be the way to go or add a bigger tank to the genset. Probably pick up a used one and then modify the tank.

Just a few thoughts... . hope this gets u thinking in the positive.

SOTSU!!
\\BF//

EDIT: just another idea, remove tank from genset and use a 5 gal gas can - gravity fed thru the cap (shud be easier to seal and can lay it on side with cap side on bottom).

[This message has been edited by Ben Stair (edited 10-16-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Check out the Espar heater. Do a search in Products forum.

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1972 Chinook class C with 96/215 5spd, 4/5" exh, 4"BD, MagHytec, 85gal fuel, K&N, AutoMeter, www.fostertruck.com/cummins

 

[Archive]

azcummins,

Before I got my Espar I was in a similar situtation. I was going to experiment with the boxes that convert DC to AC. Was looking at a 600 Watt model that clipped onto the battery. Never tried it. It seems the simple way to go. Maybe other members have tried this approach?

Similar to this:
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About $110

The Espar would be the best way to go, but its not cheap.


Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 10-16-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

If you go with an inverter as Hemi stated you will have to watch it as the inverter can get extremely hot if used all day long and not turned off, or at least the one I had.

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2001 2500HD Quad Cab SLT SB 4x4, HO Cummins, 6-speed, 3. 55 gears, LSD, brightwhite/driftwood, 4w ABS, camper and trailer tow packages, HD transfer case, snow plow prep, group, cab lights, Isspro Boost and Pyrometer gauges mounted on A-pillar, PE, 4" JRE exhaust, BD exhaust brake. 18000 miles as of 9/15/00.

1980 CJ-5, Modified for off-road use, bobbed fenders, 350 TBI, NP435 trans, 4. 56 gears, Dana 300, Dana 44 front, Dana 60 reverse-cut rear axle, ARB air lockers front and rear, 15/35/15 Super Swamper TSL on 10X15 steel rims, Cobra CB, Warn 9000I winch, nerf bars, 1/4" steel rock crawler bumper front and rear, jerri can/spare tire rack, custom roll cage.

 

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Inverters have come a long way technologically speaking. I have two of them for miscellaneous applications.

My $0. 02... ... . When in doubt get a BIGGER one than you think you need. Two reasons. The equipment will work effortlessly for your primary application and in the future you'll have extra capability for unknown uses #ad
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Joe

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White 1999, 3500 QuadCab, 6x6, Stock (so far) ISB, Automatic, Diamond Plate Running Boards and Flaps, Pac Brake, Missing Muffler, Grover Air Horns, Wants to be BOMBed.
"SHAKE, RATTLE, AND ROLL"

 

[Archive]

How much current does the block heater use?
is it 300 watt or what?
and how much power will it drain from the batteries in an hour?

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2001 QC 2500 4x4 bronze W/two tone Driftwood, 24valve HO 6sp. Westin side bars, fender flares, Spray on bedliner, soon to get shell Painted to match and Bf Goodrich AT Tires

 

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When I am camping up in the north woods during deer season I often use my 1400 watt generator to warm my motor for 3-4 hours before starting. This is when the temp is around zero or below. I believe the engine heater is 600 watts. A few hours warms it up fine to start easily.

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Ron

'96 Club Cab 2500 4x4, 4:10LS, Camper/Tow package, Auto, BD Pressure Loc, Mystery Switch, TST 230/605, Cummins Chrome, Mag-Hytec rear and trans covers, Boost, Pyro and trans gauges, Optima Red Tops, All black. Tow 14k HitchHiker triple glide 5th Wheel. Also use 9. 5' Lance camper. NRA Life Member.

 

[Archive]

Block heater draws 6. 5 amps,715 watts@ 110 volts. Sure seems to me an inverter would run your batteries down before the engine was warm. The intake heaters are about 250 watts and you've seen how much they can pull the batteries down.

 

[Archive]

If we add in the Inverter, the "Wait to start", and the fuel heater, you may be taxing the battries load(s). It would also depend on how long you will run the block heater each nite. May not be driving long enuff each day to recharge the battries. The fact that they are not "deep" cycle battries has to be taken into account, also.
The genset may still be the way to go.

SOTSU!!
\\BF//

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by illflem:
Block heater draws 6. 5 amps,715 watts@ 110 volts. Sure seems to me an inverter would run your batteries down before the engine was warm. The intake heaters are about 250 watts and you've seen how much they can pull the batteries down.

OK, pulling all the numbers together, this means at 11 to 12 volts, the inverter will draw ~65 amps. Someone else suggested 4 hour run time. Even if I don't back out anything for "efficiency", then that draw would kill two really big, 120 amp-hour deep cycle batteries stone-dead in 4 hours. In other words, if you hook the inverter to your batteries, you won't have a chance of starting, there will be no juice left. You could get two deep cycle marine batteries and run a separate system just for the heaters, but this works only if you have a place to recharge the batteries each day, and that was how this started in the first place. Unless you want to tote the batteries into your room for recharging, and then tote them down to your truck 3 or 4 hours before you get ready to start (that would be about 3 AM, right?) then I think your real options boil down to two:
1) Go with the ESPAR (I want one too #ad
) and/or
2) Put in some 5W-30 or 5W-40 synthetic oil, make sure you find winterized fuel, and just don't worry about the rest.

I recommend #1 if you can afford it, and #2 regardless of what you decide about #1.

Good Luck in School! I vaguely remember being in school...


[This message has been edited by HC (edited 10-17-2000). ]

 

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I feel like I'm missing something here.
If I was in your situation, I'd lose the petroleum 15-40 in favor of a synthetic 5-30. Besides, your manual recommends this.

As for the generator or inverter idea...
Considering I'm "known" for going to extremes in everything I own or do... Even I think this is a bit extreme. .

Plus, where would you keep/mount the generator? Those little one's grow legs REAL fast. . if you know what I mean. . And don't bet your paycheck on that chain you have wrapped around it. OR. . How would you start it automatically? I haven't seen a hand held generator with electric start.

As for the inverter... . Humm... That idea might work. . "IF" you install 1 or 2 dedicated AND isolated deep cycle batteries.
Personally, I don't think your main batteries could safely handle the inverter, heater grid, AND starting your truck. Whereas isolated batteries can be run until they are completely drained, yet your main batteries will be fine. Then when you drive your truck, the Alternator will recharge the secondaries.

FWIW: I don't know how cold it is where you will be living, but I've had my truck in Canada (-20 in the morning) after two heat cycles, she started right up with 5-30 and a 60/40 mix of kero.

I will admit, I don't know if she would have started with petro 15-40.

My 2 cents #ad


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98. 5' 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC. Everything but leather. PIAA 1200's, AMSOIL dual filter relocation system, Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner(Junk), K&N air filter(For Sale)15 year AMSOIL dealer. Time permitting, Soon to include Ultra-lite Pyro,0-50lbs boost, Trans temp in the pillar. Rancho 9000's with in cab adjustment.

 

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Originally posted by Deezal Man:
As for the inverter... . Humm... That idea might work. . "IF" you install 1 or 2 dedicated AND isolated deep cycle batteries... . Then when you drive your truck, the Alternator will recharge the secondaries.

Even with separate batteries, the 130 amp alternator would have to run for two hours per day to fully recharge 2 @ 120 amp-hour batteries. Many people don't drive that much per day. Your experience says 5W-30 oil does the trick; I think that is the route for our friend to go!

 

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HC,
I never thought about that, course... maybe thats cause I'm one of those idiots who drives an hour each way to work.

On the other hand, My unstated thoughts didn't think an inverter would have to be turned on long enough to drain the batteries completely dead...

When I have to plow snow, I plug my tractor in when I get home from work. Sometimes its only plugged for 15 minutes or so... and it makes a world of difference when starting.

So... I'm thinking (scary thought) a 1/2 to 1 hour would be sufficient in this case. If nothing else... it should take off the cold edge. Which is what you are trying to do anyway.

BUT... as HC said, you will have to drive more than 5-10 minutes to keep things charged up.

Besides, Diesel's don't like the 5 minute grocery circuit. . They should. . at least on a normal basis reach full operating temps. But thats MO.

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98. 5' 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC. Everything but leather. PIAA 1200's, AMSOIL dual filter relocation system, Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner(Junk), K&N air filter(For Sale)15 year AMSOIL dealer. Time permitting, Soon to include Ultra-lite Pyro,0-50lbs boost, Trans temp in the pillar. Rancho 9000's with in cab adjustment.

 

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Seems to me that the hardest part of starting a cold engine is trying to pump tar like motor oil. 5-30 or syn oil would definitely help. I saw a 200 watt magnetic oil pan heater that ran off 12 VDC,even had electronics to shut it down if your battery voltage dropped down to the level where you wouldn't have enough juice left for cranking. Now if I can just remember what catalog it was in.