General Hi and wondering what they go for

[markmnj]

Hey All, Im already past the idea of wanting to sell or trade mine and decided I have too much sentimental attachment to it. But I was wondering what our trucks are worth if any of you know. Mine is a 1999 5 speed with no rust anywhere and sitting around 80K miles. I had a dealer offer me 12K for it toward a new one. I don't want to sell it but am curious now what they are actually worth. I still may want to buy a new one but as an additional one though.

 

[Cummins12V98]

If in NW WA in good condition 15-20k or more.

 

[Iron Duke II]

My better half keeps sending me this to entice me to sell.
https://tucson.craigslist.org/d/for-sale/search/sss?query=2nd gen dodge ram cummins&sort=rel

 

[markmnj]

Thanks for the informative replies. If I can figure out how I will post/share some more pics of my truck out and about doing its thing. I cant really post any questions or problems because I have not really had any with it. I will be replacing the fuel sender before it gets too cold out but I see nothing major there either...tank removal is kinda easy on a vehicle I can squat and sit up underneath. I was scoping it out yesterday from both sides. I will tackle this week. Long live 2nd our gen trucks!

 

[Matt42]

Thanks for the informative replies. If I can figure out how I will post/share some more pics of my truck out and about doing its thing. I cant really post any questions or problems because I have not really had any with it. I will be replacing the fuel sender before it gets too cold out but I see nothing major there either...tank removal is kinda easy on a vehicle I can squat and sit up underneath. I was scoping it out yesterday from both sides. I will tackle this week. Long live 2nd our gen trucks!

Your fuel sender is a little different from the one in my 1996. But I've done that replacement, and I have a few thoughts on what you might find underneath. It'll vary from truck to truck.

• The fuel supply and return lines may have gotten smashed between the tank and the frame over time, or possibly on the assembly line. This can even flatten part of the steel line. Be prepared to fabricate some replacements. I had a coil of 3/8 inch and 5/16 inch OD silver-colored steel brake line ready to go, just in case. And I needed it. You can make a sort of bulge at the end to help retain the hose over the steel tube easily. With a good double flaring tool, use the correct sized mandrel to just start to bell the end of the tube. Just a little is all you need. (I learned this trick from a mechanic at a Shell station in Arnold, California when I was 17. He saved me $$$ over decades.)
• To drop the fuel tank, I used the least expensive Harbor Freight transmission jack with a piece of plywood bolted on it to make it longer. Worked like a champ. I think it goes without saying that driving until there's as little fuel as possible in the tank makes the job easier. Even so, I got diesel all over the place.
  
• The electrical connections on your truck's tank may--or may not--be visible and accessible. Mine were not. Worse, the plug and socket had hardened with age. I ended up cutting the wires upstream of the socket, and then soldering in about 18 inches more wire, with double wall shrink tube, to make it easier to reassemble. I used some CRC brand silicone spray to clean up the connector so it would actually disconnect like it was supposed to. When I reassembled it when all was done, I used dielectric grease in the connectors and in the snap so I could get it apart again, if I ever needed to. The extra 18 inches of length meant that I didn't have to reconnect the plug until the tank was fully installed.
• The plastic connectors that adapt the fuel hose to the top of the sender may have cracked or broken from age. It's a good idea to have replacements on hand. They aren't really necessary if you have good, flexible fuel hose that's designed for diesel and are willing to use hose clamps. The hose will be a tight fit and will look really odd. The connectors on my tank were still OK, surprisingly.
• When you buy the sender, also buy a replacement threaded ring and gasket. I didn't. I think I may be doing this job all over again when I'm 71.

 

[markmnj]

Your fuel sender is a little different from the one in my 1996. But I've done that replacement, and I have a few thoughts on what you might find underneath. It'll vary from truck to truck.

• The fuel supply and return lines may have gotten smashed between the tank and the frame over time, or possibly on the assembly line. This can even flatten part of the steel line. Be prepared to fabricate some replacements. I had a coil of 3/8 inch and 5/16 inch OD silver-colored steel brake line ready to go, just in case. And I needed it. You can make a sort of bulge at the end to help retain the hose over the steel tube easily. With a good double flaring tool, use the correct sized mandrel to just start to bell the end of the tube. Just a little is all you need. (I learned this trick from a mechanic at a Shell station in Arnold, California when I was 17. He saved me $$$ over decades.)
• To drop the fuel tank, I used the least expensive Harbor Freight transmission jack with a piece of plywood bolted on it to make it longer. Worked like a champ. I think it goes without saying that driving until there's as little fuel as possible in the tank makes the job easier. Even so, I got diesel all over the place.
  
• The electrical connections on your truck's tank may--or may not--be visible and accessible. Mine were not. Worse, the plug and socket had hardened with age. I ended up cutting the wires upstream of the socket, and then soldering in about 18 inches more wire, with double wall shrink tube, to make it easier to reassemble. I used some CRC brand silicone spray to clean up the connector so it would actually disconnect like it was supposed to. When I reassembled it when all was done, I used dielectric grease in the connectors and in the snap so I could get it apart again, if I ever needed to. The extra 18 inches of length meant that I didn't have to reconnect the plug until the tank was fully installed.
• The plastic connectors that adapt the fuel hose to the top of the sender may have cracked or broken from age. It's a good idea to have replacements on hand. They aren't really necessary if you have good, flexible fuel hose that's designed for diesel and are willing to use hose clamps. The hose will be a tight fit and will look really odd. The connectors on my tank were still OK, surprisingly.
• When you buy the sender, also buy a replacement threaded ring and gasket. I didn't. I think I may be doing this job all over again when I'm 71.

Your fuel sender is a little different from the one in my 1996. But I've done that replacement, and I have a few thoughts on what you might find underneath. It'll vary from truck to truck.

• The fuel supply and return lines may have gotten smashed between the tank and the frame over time, or possibly on the assembly line. This can even flatten part of the steel line. Be prepared to fabricate some replacements. I had a coil of 3/8 inch and 5/16 inch OD silver-colored steel brake line ready to go, just in case. And I needed it. You can make a sort of bulge at the end to help retain the hose over the steel tube easily. With a good double flaring tool, use the correct sized mandrel to just start to bell the end of the tube. Just a little is all you need. (I learned this trick from a mechanic at a Shell station in Arnold, California when I was 17. He saved me $$$ over decades.)
• To drop the fuel tank, I used the least expensive Harbor Freight transmission jack with a piece of plywood bolted on it to make it longer. Worked like a champ. I think it goes without saying that driving until there's as little fuel as possible in the tank makes the job easier. Even so, I got diesel all over the place.
  
• The electrical connections on your truck's tank may--or may not--be visible and accessible. Mine were not. Worse, the plug and socket had hardened with age. I ended up cutting the wires upstream of the socket, and then soldering in about 18 inches more wire, with double wall shrink tube, to make it easier to reassemble. I used some CRC brand silicone spray to clean up the connector so it would actually disconnect like it was supposed to. When I reassembled it when all was done, I used dielectric grease in the connectors and in the snap so I could get it apart again, if I ever needed to. The extra 18 inches of length meant that I didn't have to reconnect the plug until the tank was fully installed.
• The plastic connectors that adapt the fuel hose to the top of the sender may have cracked or broken from age. It's a good idea to have replacements on hand. They aren't really necessary if you have good, flexible fuel hose that's designed for diesel and are willing to use hose clamps. The hose will be a tight fit and will look really odd. The connectors on mbuy tank were still OK, surprisingly.
• When you buy the sender, also buy a replacement threaded ring and gasket. I didn't. I think I may be doing this job all over again when I'm 71.

Hi thanks for this info. I seem to have tons of room under mine I can sit up under the thing. and see the top of the tank with a little bit of effort. I can see those connectors that go to the sender look and feel fine somehow still wearing their paper labels too. I got all the parts but still have too much fuel in the tank to want to try and drop it. I know mine is bad because it has a dead spot in the gauge from about 7/8 of a tank to around 1/4 tank of diesel. Two weeks of deciding I did actually end up buying the 2022 2500 this weekend but went 6.4 hemi in the new one as its better for me this time around. Driving/use habits have changed a bit in old(er) age...I have about a 15 mile travel radius LOL

 

[Shelby Griggs]

2nd gen trucks in good condition can bring 50-100% of what they sold for new 20 years ago. This is for trucks well maintained and not roached out.

 

[markmnj]

2nd gen trucks in good condition can bring 50-100% of what they sold for new 20 years ago. This is for trucks well maintained and not roached out.

Thats amazing! mine is not roached out...I love that saying BTW LOL... Also called "patina" which mine has none of. Heres a shot of what she looks like underneath before i washed it

 

[markmnj]

All the body cavaties were always treated with amsoil HDMP (metal protector) since new. like blown into all the seams and stuff. My brand new ram got the same the day it came home this weekend. I will be selling the 99 it'd be wrong to not drive it...it likes to work

 

[Shelby Griggs]

@markmnj looks very good, especially if you live someplace that salts the roads. I am in Oregon, no or little salt, but they do use magnesium chloride, still mine has even less rust than yours has and no rust prevention other than a rinse with water when I remember to do so. Pretty common to see late 2nd gen, 4wd, quad cabs for sale in the $15k range and I think one owner, no body repair, HO/NV5600, etc. only adds to price.

 

[Matt42]

What is that funny looking orangish-brown crusty stuff? Here in Arizona, the paint evaporates.