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Generator Installation Question

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Goose Neck to 5th Wheel Adapter?

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To avoid paying close to 4 grand for a generator prep package in my 5'ver I got to thinking about how I could do it myself. I can buy a good generator much cheaper than the dealer would get it for me. Now the tricky part. I would run my main 30 amp power cable under the belly of the trailer, which is enclosed. I would make sure it was run neatly and secured properly of course and plug it into the generator up front. If I have to dry camp I'm always plugged into the generator. If I'm at a campground with full hookups I could unplug the cord from the generator, plug it into a 30 amp extension cord and hookup to shore power. Is it really this simple, or am I missing something?
 
Gen.

John, It sounds like you will only use the generator very little. Why not pull the gen from your storage cabinet and chain it to the camper when needed. You will have penty of 30 amp cord to reach the gen. Everyone talks highly of the new Honda's. They are real quiet. I have a built in Onan lp in my Lance truck camper but we use it daily for the microwave in the am and of course the curling iron. Keeps the better half very happy. $5,000 for gen ready is high. That must also include a gen. Gen ready is usually pre-wiring and no gen. Good luck Rob
 
The main reason I would even consider an installed generator is the noise level. I have the cheap Home Depot model, but as you know they are loud. I never thought I'd dry camp much and I've done it twice in the last 5 months. Also beats having to load the generator on the truck. I don't have as much room now with the hitch in the bed. The hardest part about doing this is undoing the underbelly cover and drilling a hole in the deck in the back of the 5'ver. I'm not sure I'm going to get a Honda or an Onan. I just wanted to know if I was missing anything on the electrical side with this approach.
 
I have a 29 foot 5'er and have a Generac propane generator in the front compartment. I also have a transfer switch that automaticly switches the power to the generator after it warms up. iI carry a couple of extra propane bottles for the generator. It's real quiet and I had it installed at Camping World.

Pete
 
Your idea should work fine. My 5er was equipped with a generator prewire, but no generator. The 30 amp cord for shore power is stored in a compartment at the back of the camper. They installed a 10 ga wire from the back with a female plug, and ran the wire to the front where the generator would be located. To run the camper from the generator, just plug in the 30 amp cord into the female plug in the rear storage compartment. To run on shore power, unplug the cord from the femal connector, and plug into shore power.



I have installed an automatic change-over relay to switch the outlets between the inverter and shore power as required. The high-current items like microwave, AC, and converter are always on the shore power side.



I would like to install an Onan 3. 6 KW propane generator in my unit sometime. the 3. 6 KW puts out 30 amps at 110 vac, which is the max my camper can use anyway. All I need now is the money.
 
As far as wiring the unit underside. If you use conduit or the armor flex, (called MC for metal clad) that would protect it from any debris flying up from the road.



If you utilize plugs to make the connection, that will work fine, and meet codes, too. Using a transfer switch, and codes are more complicated, as the neutral must be bonded to ground on the generator, but never bonded to ground in the coach on the shore connection. The way you suggest is reall the easiest, least costly and fool proof way, not to mention safest.



The gen prep package probably has wiring, soundproofing, floor reinforcement, and air / exhaust management, ready for the gen to be set in. You should consider all of the above when doing it yourself.



Doug Rees
 
John; what I would do is travel around a bit and see and talk to other RVers. My rec is dont pay that kind of money. Honda is the way to go but dont let a dealer screw you
 
My main 30 amp power cable is stored in a fake cabinet in the back of my trailer. It has a drawer in the top, but the cabinet door is screwed shut. I would have to drill a hole in the floor big enough to get the plug head through and then it's just a matter of routing it to the front. I would have to punch a hole in a bulkhead somewhere up front, probably between the cellar and the front storage compartment, but I think this can be done easily enough. The trick is avoiding a sloppy job and making it look like Curly, Larry & Moe had been on the job. Do Honda/Onan generators come with a 30 amp plug outlet or would I be looking at using a 110 outlet adapter?



I don't want to get into transfer switches and such. From a gee-look-at-this-little-gizmo-watchamacallit-gottahavit perspective it's really cool, but more costly in money and time and it's one more thing that can go wrong. The entire trailer is set up to run on 30 amp service through the main power cord. Doing it this way is the safest and cheapest way I can think of. My power cord will come out of the bottom of the front storage compartment when I don't want to use the generator, but that's not a concern at this point.







drees1, my trailer has an insulated underbelly. Flying debris is not a concern. Undoing the under belly cover will probably be a pain in the neck, literally, but once everything is in place no one will be able to tell the power cord is even there.
 
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Generator

John,

I have a 2002 Keystone TailGator, which was generator ready. I looked at the Honda and was about to have a marine Honda shop install one for me. I did not see many Honda certified generator shops in the phone book and I did not like the way the Honda shop maintained the work area (The guy sold boats on the side) I had Cummins SE install an Onan 5500 Emerald (final number was $3400). I live 20 min from Cummins SE so, I thought the ease of service (Cummins SE keeps their area spotless) was the deciding factor for me. I have added sound proofing to the inside and that made a big difference.
 
Generator Specs

John,

I think the Generator was around $2700 to $2900. You can surf the net and find many Onan models allot cheaper. The unit was a bit overkill but, I use allot of power when we TailGait at the Games. This unit is for a permanent install. A friend of mine that TailGaits with us has a Generac 4500. He built a segmental noise reduction box and places it around the Generator (with plenty of room for air movement).
 
I installed a Generac Quietpac 4000 in my 5er. I built a compartment in my front storage with seals and insulation as per the Generac instalation instructions.



I drilled a hole through the wall that connects to my basement and ran a 30 Amp power cord that I plug into my trailer power cord.



This was a safe and simple installation; no switch over box.



It works great! Runs smooth and quiet! :p



As far as the installation is concerned it took lots of blood, sweat, and tears.



The generator was about $1600 online; materials cost was about $500. This included fuel system and remote starter.



It saved a lot and I'm very pleased with the installation! :)
 
the compartments are made of metal so as to act as a fire wall. ones that are prewired come wit the junction box mounted inside.

you then take it from there.
 
John,



The box I made was in accordance with the Generac installation instructions. If you go to www.generac.com you can look at the instruction manuals for RV generators. You'll have to scan through the manual to the installation section. This section shows how the box is constructed and the material that it is made from. It is a combination of wood with a 26 gauge galvinized sheetmetal covering. The manual also discusses all of the safety precations that you should take. :eek:



I made mine to fit the front compartment on my 5er. It was a tight fit and also required me to have a mounting bracket welded. I lined the compartment with sound proofing; Expensive :( but worth it.



I'm sorry I don't have pictures of the installation. With the generator installed there isn't much to look at. With the front compartment door open, all you can see is the front of the generator.



If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
 
John:

I have the Onan 5500 Marquis in my fiver. 224 lbs. The automatic switch over is a nice thing to have. I was at a camp ground in N Georgia and they lost power. I cranked the Onan and went on about our bussiness. After about 3 hours it came back on. I had another camper plug in mine. When the power came on, I saw other campers with lights and shut the gen off . Works well.



As Patrick said, my model has been replaced with the Emerald 5500. And also as he said $2700 from Cummins South. At the price you were quoted that should include a sound box and $ 500 worth of fuel. :D The way you are going will work but like me and the Auto Sat dish. Breaking it down in a rain storm ain't the most fun way to spend an afternoon. I've done that at 2 Atlanta races now and not again. :mad:



Good luck.



. . Preston. .
 
I'm still in the planning stages and have some more research to do. The funds are low right now. We're still playing catch up from all the expected and unexpected costs that have been incurred since we lost our travel trailer. I have a 7500 watt Home Depot model and it worked well last weekend in Martinsville. It's just loud. My wife and I are young enough where loading it on and off the truck is not much of a problem. It's mainly a noise issue with me. You shouldn't have weather related problems in Atlanta this weekend if you are going to the race. Moving the fall race up a couple of weekends was long overdue. I may purchase tickets to that track again. I haven't been there in a couple of years and the weather was always bad when I did go. I didn't start the RV lifestyle until after I stopped going to that track. It's one of the nicest facilities on the circuit, however.
 
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It seems that everbody is looking at convenience and not reality, unless science has changed things around we are dealing with internal combustion engines here. If these units are mounted in the front under your 5th wheel that means the fumes (Carbon Monoxide) are directly under where you sleep???????? C'mon boys is it really that inconvenient to have a poison generator mounted in the truck you can move or on the back of the trailer in a vented secured frame protected box! My life and family is worth more than this, and the unit manufacturers are definitly working within code on this one???
 
pkennedy, that's why you run an exhaust pipe away from the bedroom area. I'm not as concerned with convenience relative to this topic as I am with noise and how it may disturb others who tent camp nearby. Presently, the only time I use a generator is at NASCAR races where there are no hookups, so this is not a high priority at this time. I was at the Memorial Day race in Charlotte and it was quite warm during the day. Fortunately, it cooled off considerably at night because we weren't allowed to run generators between the hours of midnight and 7 a. m. There were no restrictions on generators installed on motor homes because they are quiet. Imagine trying to sleep in a travel trailer or 5'ver when the temps are near 80 and humidity at 70% and no A/C. That gets uncomfortable real fast. I try to go to races during cooler times of the year. The only time you really need to run a generator during cool weather is for the morning coffee or to catch up on the weather and sports news.
 
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PK:

Thanks for the concern and in a lot cases you would be right, but Onan already thought of that one. The case in point is the Home Depot unit , blaring at 800 db's. That SOB that runs his all nite I wish him a good , eternal sleep from your post.



. . Preston. .
 
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