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Geno's Brite-Box fog light control kit

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In regards to the above post it is actually against most state regs to have any auxiliary lighting on with the high beams which I think is kinda dumb as when my hi beams are on thats when I want to see and no vehicles are coming the other way so as they state you can have a total of four auxiliary lights on with your low beams so you can blind people all the time. I had the brite box on my 97 and on my wifes car I love them the new headlights work so well I can't see fooling with them. Have had no problems with either brite box or Ginos Kevin
 
This is an old thread but thought I'd update. I used my Bright Box w/fog control for the first time last week. Within one hour... maybe less... I smelled the tell tale odor of elec. burning. Pulled over and turned lights off. Right went off, no fogs, left would NOT go off until engine off for a few minutes. Now dims work OK w/fogs... won't try brights. All is going back to Geno's.

Mark
 
I've had my box with fog light control for 1. 5 weeks and loved them until tonight when i shut off my truck and had the drivers side low beam and both fogs stay on. I too had to resort to sharting up the truck and playing with the light switch. About an hour later, i got home and when i shut it down both headlights went out but both fogs stayed on for a few seconds. They than began to flash. Again I had to restart the truck and play with the switch. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I have been in contact a few times with Robin at Geno's. He wrote to the factory and they sent him this. Long read but worth it. Maybe this will clear up things. . we shall see..... I did agree to try the updated version.

"Mark, the manufacturer - Baker Automotive - provided the following to me
last night. It is lengthy, but worth the time:

* * *
We have a fix for the problem, please read . . . but I think a little
history is in order . . .

Dodge thought that they should reinvent the wheel with by employing a
computer to power the lights of these trucks. We believe that Dodge made a
HUGE mistake in doing so since the systems have exhibited problems since day
one. Yes, we need computers in vehicles for certain things, but to run light
bulbs?

Dodge has been having problems with the computerized lighting system in the
06 and up trucks as well as those from 05 and down. These problems are
happening to stock trucks and not just those that have had our product
installed. A search of any Dodge truck forum (includingTDR) will confirm
this.

Problems in the 03-05 Heavy Duty and 02-05 1500 series Rams were pretty much
isolated to a false alarm condition of the "lamp out" warning light in the
dashboard. The computer would falsely warn of a lamp out, when in fact all
where fine. The problem was that the computer was overly sensitive to slight
resistance differences in Dodge's FACTORY tail light assemblies. Cure for
the problem was to change out tail light assemblies and / or bulbs. Dodge
DUMPED the lamp out warning feature in the 06 and up trucks since this has
obviously cost them millions of dollars in unnecessary warranty work.

The computers in all these trucks are protected by a fuse between itself and
the vehicle's battery. However, there is NO fuse between the computer and
the actual headlight filaments. The computer is "supposedly" intelligent
enough to protect itself from a short circuit in that it will shut down
output to the bulb if a short is detected. Here is where the problem lies in
the 06 -07 trucks. The computers are falsely reading short circuits and will
turn headlights off when there are no short circuits. There is NO doubt that
Dodge knows about this problem since the computers need to be reset at the
dealer to restore power to the headlight. We also believe that Dodge is /
has loaded numerous software packages into their computers in order to try
to solve this problem. Evidence of such is that trucks we have tested show
levels of test signals (those used to detect shorts) that are all over the
board. By using test signals of higher levels, the computers would be less
sensitive to normal resistance tolerances in wiring and bulbs, thus more
stability and less false shut downs.

Now to your customer's issue . . .

His computer is obviously one with the highest level test signal as it
causes the Brite Box to back feed into a resistor that causes it to heat up.
In the past month, we have seen four trucks do exactly the same thing as
his. A Brite Box with a electronic clamp to reduce it's sensitivity to the
high level test signal has cured the problem in every case. One of the
trucks belongs to one of my friends here in town and he has driven it with
headlights on 100% of the time the truck has been in operation with perfect
results. We added this mod to all 06 - 07 product since 3-10-07 to insure
compatibility will any level test signal.

I can say that the vehicle's electrics have suffered NO negative effects as
the heat is IN the Brite Box. In fact upon inspection, you may even see that
the plastic case of the Brite Box has warped. The stock computer and wiring
has not been exposed to this heat as there is no direct connection to this
resistor.

We would be happy to send Mr. Rogers and updated kit with 100% confidence.

* * *

Mark, it is your choice whether you would prefer a full refund or a
replacement unit. Just let me know.

And again, I apologize for the problems you have experienced. "
 
Just got off the phone with Brite-Box. The email provided above, may be the ticket!

Looks as though there may INDEED be a final resolution FOREVER! I have to admit (with a little crow) I may have been a bit zealous as to throwing the Brite-Box people under the bus. Seems that a few of us really were being "heard"... ... ... ... Please, Brite-Box, accept my deepest apologies... ;)

I should have shipment in hand in a few days.
I will report the results as soon as a week of use goes uneventfully!!Oo.

Thanks again to brite box--Obviuosly an outstanding company with people that really care... :D
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I contacted the brite box company through their web site. They confirmed that a new fix is on the way and suggested that i remove the fuses from the current boxes. All the ask is that I return the old ones. Nice to know that they are standing behind their product.
 
It is so simple to mod the switch and not even need the Britebox.
Maybe so but I was under the impression that the B. Box had relays in the boxes which protect the wiring harness and switch from overheating due to the added amperage. Am I mistaken here? BTW, all I really want is brights and dims at the same time. Don't care that much for fogs with brights.

Mark
 
Maybe so but I was under the impression that the B. Box had relays in the boxes which protect the wiring harness and switch from overheating due to the added amperage. Am I mistaken here? BTW, all I really want is brights and dims at the same time. Don't care that much for fogs with brights.

Mark

There is no overload because the computer is controls the output to the lights. Unlike the older trucks, there is NO headlight current going thru the switch. It'a merely a signal for the computer to do what you want. The only downside is that it thinks you are holding the stalk back, so it doesn't shut off on its own.
 
Hammer,
OK... now I understand... makes sense. So... how do you keep both sets of lights on at a time... not the fogs... just dim and bright. What's the wiring trick and will that in anyway void a warranty on the ECU?

Mark
 
Heres a though, how bout stepping up the wire size to the bor or the fogs to handle the extra power consumption. I did a headlight replacement in an expedition that i had befor eI found about all the benefits of a diesel and the manufaturer strongly recommended thier headlight harness due to extra power and heat. I know you shouldn't have to but it is the safe route to go.
 
Hammer,
OK... now I understand... makes sense. So... how do you keep both sets of lights on at a time... not the fogs... just dim and bright. What's the wiring trick and will that in anyway void a warranty on the ECU?

Mark

Read my original post/thread: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94631

Hopefully it makes sense. I can't imagine my truck without this mod and looking at the date, it was over 3 years ago with NO PROBLEMS.
 
Update:

I received a replacement kit from Baker Industries for the failed Bright Box on my 06 dually. The first one was apparently not for use in the 06. . or so they say they have discovered. I accepted a replacement which 'is configured correctly' for the 06 and installed today. The first one showed extreme heat damage and was returned to Baker.

I will update when this one is tested to my satisfaction.

Mark
 
I have an 06 and I did have the same problems as you guys, I am a friend of Joel who owns Baker Auto and he has used my truck with the new box to fix the problem. Since we installed the new box with the Clamp in it I have had no problems at all! I have been using brite boxes for years and have had no troubles. Joel will stand behind his product 100%, just get in touch with him. I also have the fogzilla update to the fogs and this is just the ticket!
 
I installed the replacement kits and have not had any problems so far. My question is to nunya, what do you mean new box with the clamp on it? The original drivers side also showed heat damage to the underside. I have only used the new ones a few times, I just hope all is well cause I really like the amount of light i can get know.
 
NUNYA-

Can you tell me if I need to replace BOTH boxes for the mod to work--long term? I recieved my NEW kit for the UPDATE for an 06. The box contained both left and right (passenger and Drivers sides). I know the drivers controls the fogs, I just need to know if I need to replace the passanger side too...

Thanks! :)
 
Sorry for the confusion! Joel installed both boxes, drivers and passenger side that have the electronic clamp on the inside of the box to control electronic sensitivity... ... ... . read his reply in post above from RodgersM. I still have had no problems with my lights, work perfect, shut off every time! Thanks!
 
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