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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Genos Fuel Filter Relocator

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On my 96 it's really a hassle to change the fuel filter and was wondering if anyone is using the relocator kit from Geno's Garage, can you tell me the good and bad points of this setup? :confused:
 
Nfox,

I believe the set-up you are referring to is the Prime-Loc fuel filter relocations kit, that had been offered by Geno's Garage? I have had this set-up since '97 and it has never once given me a problem. I figured out pretty quick the factory's ideal of easy to change fuel filters was pretty week, so I switched over at the first change interval. The system is well made and does do a good job of making the fuel filter more accessible. The fuel hoses are quality pieces and seem to be leak free. The good ,out weighs the bad by a considerable margin. The mount itself makes the left rear side of the engine compartment a little tight, especially it your truck has 4wheel ABS. But the few times I had to access the fuel plate or intake manifold, I simply UN-bolted the Prime-Loc and laid it over to the side, leaving the fuel lines attached. I installed two liquid filler fuel gauges into the end of the prime-Loc to monitor intake and export fuel pressure, I change the filters once I see more then 1psi difference in pressure. This makes a handy maintenance gauge. I think you would only have to change the fuel filter once to see the full benefit of the Prime-Loc filter relocation kit. The canister filters are much nicer to deal with and I find it much easier to change filters and not loose prime.



My '97 with Prime_loc fuel filter relocation kit installed



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I have had the prime-loc on my 95, since 1995. It is well made, and easy to install. When you change your fuel filter,

you will see that it is worth every cent.



Jim
 
Agee with both of these post. I also have one and have modified the mount to where it is located back in the corner be the hood hinge. leaving the left side of the engine accessable. At show and shines I have entered, it has generated a lot of interest. i don't have four wheel ABS.

There are THREE prime locs in the classifieds now, CHEAP.

Marv.
 
I have one off of my 95 that I would be willing to sell. It does show signs of being used, but I do have a brand new fuel in water sensor and it is very functional. The signs of use are from a friend and myself laying wrenchs on the top plate while working on fuel plate adjustyments ETC. I can send photo's if interested.
 
Everything you need comes with the kit. It is as easy to install as it is to change out a filter. They provide a machined aluminum adapter that replaces the filter and a machined aluminum block that the filter screws into. A mounting plate and hoses are provided that locates the filter near the air intake horn.

It is worth the price.
 
nfox,



I was looking into a remote fuel filter for my truck. I could'nt use a prime-loc because of my Banks Twin ram intake.



A tdr (dphillips) member said he has a remote filter made by a local company. He said he loves it. They give you everything you need in the kit. The owners have 12V Dodge trucks, and they designed it. It moves the filter to the drivers side fender. I was all set to order one, but they didn't take charge cards. I would seriously take a look at what they have first before buying a Prime-Loc. Here is their address:



Filter Engineering Inc.

1499 Pomona rd

Corona, Ca 91720

(909) 737-5690



http://www.google.com/local?hl=en&l...atlng=33875277,-117565555,7067158713110596188



Here is the thread I first saw this in:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40882&highlight=Filter+engineering
 
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Hemi,

Any idea of the cost? Do they leave the stock filter head in place? If not how did they address the fuel drain mainfold? Thanks.
 
cooker,



I thought it was about $200. I believe they give you an adapter to screw on the OEM filter head. I also think they give you an extender for the W. I. F sensor. The filter they give you for the remote has a drain valve.
 
Thanks Hemi. I might try to contact them.



Howard do you notice any pressure loss with the PrimeLoc vs. just running the OEM filter in the OEM location?
 
I didn't have a gauge when I had the filter in stock position. The change to the PrimeLoc came shortly after I changed the filter for the first time. :)

I do have 30 lb or more when under way and about 28 lb at idle so don't believe anything was lost.

The hoses that run between the adapter and the PimeLoc filter head are at least as large if not larger than the fuel lines coming from the tank so can't see how they could introduce any losses. After the number of years they have been in service, I may soon change them out for some steel braided lines just for safety's sake.



The kit included a round block of aluminum that is basically a manifold and is about the same diameter as the filter but not as long. It is threaded to screw onto the center pipe in the stock filter mount with proper o ring and gasket and has ports for two hoses that go to the replacement filter head which you can see in the picture I posted.

The hoses feed into it in the back.

There are two ports in front that you can tap for a filter gauge.

You continue to use the same filters as before along with the original water sensor and drain valve. The water sensor wiring has to be made longer so it will reach the new filter location. Wiring and connectors are included.



Here is an illustration of the included parts.
 
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I have a prime lock on my 97. I'm getting ready change the fuel filter which comes with two rubber gaskets. Can you guys give me step by step procedure in changing out the filter. Do you fill the new filter with fuel and then screw it on and how much to you tigthen the filter. I don't have gauges that tell me it needs changed but it's been around 30,000 miles since the install. I'm also getting ready to have an Aero Replacement Fuel Tank installed and I was wondering it I should change the filter after the tank install.

Thanks

Frank
 
to chang the filter is very easy so dont wait so long next time!! unplug the water sender then remove the filter, i always dump the fuel into something to see if there is any water in it, then remove the drain valve from the bottom of the filter, replace the oring and reinstall drain valve in the new filter. remove the small oring from the filter stud on the filter head if it didnt fall off and install new oring, fill the filter with clean fuel and install filter, the filter must be filled with fuel!!! and dont forget to plug in the water sender in on the bottom
 
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Does the water sender unscrew or pull off. Can you easily see where the oring fits? When you start the engine is it as usual?

Thanks
 
Some of us prefer to use the lift pump to refill the new fuel filter. That ensures that the fuel will be filtered before it is sent to the injection pump. Any fuel you dump into the filter before installation is not filtered.



You don't need to use the starter to operate the lift pump to fill the new fuel filter. Just use a cut-off broom handle to operate the lift pump manually.
 
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