Getrag noise and shift questions

[rxm6]

Hello everyone,

Quick back story:

I did a conversion from auto to stick and picked up a Getrag from a gentleman. I planned on rebuilding it, but initially installed it just to see how it worked before I dove into it. It drove fine except for grinding into 3rd. Pulled it out and started the rebuild. I rebuilt according to the 93 FSM instructions. I replaced 3rd gear, all collars, springs, and synchros, input shaft, all bearings, and top cover. Re-installed it, filled to 5qts, and have driven it about 2000 miles without failure.

My questions:

1. I have loud chatter at idle in neutral with clutch engaged after warming up. I have been told this is normal. I just want to double check that.

2. 3rd gear no longer grinds but is difficult to engage. I was told never to force a shift on a Getrag. It is better to suggest a shift to the Getrag and let it shift when it's ready. This works fine and quickly in 4th and 5th, but 3rd is resistant to shifts and makes hill starts a joy. I should point out that the grinding is gone, but my 2nd to 3rd shifts are now longer than before the rebuild and I received more fingered salutes than ever before. Thoughts?

Thanks.

 

[DVolk]

When my gut box was in my truck , i just double clutched . to get in gear but it did get stuck in gear of which then it was time to
up grade the transmission to a nv4500

 

[GCroyle]

It might be coming from the type of torsion damper in the disc. The OE disc 13" has a small pre damper identified by the really small visible external springs.

 

[DMcLeod]

I have the same annoying loud chatter/rattle in neutral, at idle, clutch pedal out. I figure it is the disc also, so I keep driving it. I inspected clutch parts last year, but couldn't determine the noise from my inspection.

I had a local transmission shop rebuild the Getrag last year. Within a few hundred miles, lost brake for third (would just slip in and grind) and then it wouldn't stay in 4th. The shop had it apart two more times before I could drive it, and now after a year, it's nearly toast again. They blame it on foreign parts, but I believe it needs to be set up properly, and takes some knowledge of how all those parts work together in there. I'm not convinced the NV4500 is an upgrade yet.

 

[rxm6]

I have the same annoying loud chatter/rattle in neutral, at idle, clutch pedal out. I figure it is the disc also, so I keep driving it. I inspected clutch parts last year, but couldn't determine the noise from my inspection.

I had a local transmission shop rebuild the Getrag last year. Within a few hundred miles, lost brake for third (would just slip in and grind) and then it wouldn't stay in 4th. The shop had it apart two more times before I could drive it, and now after a year, it's nearly toast again. They blame it on foreign parts, but I believe it needs to be set up properly, and takes some knowledge of how all those parts work together in there. I'm not convinced the NV4500 is an upgrade yet.

All the bearings you get for the 360 are Koyo. They are decent as far as I know.

It might be coming from the type of torsion damper in the disc. The OE disc 13" has a small pre damper identified by the really small visible external springs.

I do not have torsional dampers, I know that. My flywheel is solid.

 

[NIsaacs]

1. I have loud chatter at idle in neutral with clutch engaged after warming up. I have been told this is normal. I just want to double check that.

Thoughts?

With a tight clutch disk and warm oil, this is normal, it's gear rollover.

Nick

 

[JLEONARD]

With a tight clutch disk and warm oil, this is normal, it's gear rollover.
Nick

By "gear rollover" do you mean the gears are "unloading and loading" and rattling to the tune of the diesel pulses?
This is what happens in a boat transmission with a diesel when the idle speed is on the low end.

 

[rxm6]

By "gear rollover" do you mean the gears are "unloading and loading" and rattling to the tune of the diesel pulses?
This is what happens in a boat transmission with a diesel when the idle speed is on the low end.

Should I raise my idle? I'm at 800 right now.

 

[NIsaacs]

By "gear rollover" do you mean the gears are "unloading and loading" and rattling to the tune of the diesel pulses?

Yes, good description. When cold, the heavier oil will provide just enough resistance to load the gears and prevent the slight growl. Sometimes if you let the clutch out real slow when you are stopped and in neutral the trans will be quiet v/s just dumping it.

Nick

 

[JLEONARD]

Should I raise my idle? I'm at 800 right now.

No, 800 is good. I always had my idle low at maybe 600. You might experiement a bit, maybe you can get to an rpm where the noise stops. I would not go higher than 800 though.

 

[NIsaacs]

They blame it on foreign parts, but I believe it needs to be set up properly, and takes some knowledge of how all those parts work together in there. I'm not convinced the NV4500 is an upgrade yet.

I agree, the Getrag is a fine transmission. Keep the oil clean and full. I could never understand how a transmission could be rebuilt, then fail. The bad parts are easy to see, even with my one eye The pocket bearing area, shift collars and syncros are important.

Nick

 

[Levi1a]

Kind of in the same boat. Just had my Getrag rebuilt about 2000 miles ago, and now notice grinding when upshifting into 4th. It is mainly when I try to shift quickly and is more prominent when I am over 2000 RPM. If I pause in neutral for a second it wont grind. Just kind of sucks when you are trying not to lose RPMS. The clutch was replaced when the transmission was out, I have considered replacing the hydraulics thinking they may be getting weak , but would think I would have an issue in all gears not just fourth?? Thought???

 

[GHarman]

If all else is good, try switching to synthetic oil.
It will still flow when cold and requires little warm up.
Don't forget to over fill!
GregH

 

[Levi1a]

Already running synthetic 5w-30. 5 quarts. Maybe try a different brand like am soil. I think the get rags are just slow shifter by design.

 

[GHarman]

Thats what I use! Did the rebuild repair at our local transmission repair. Had it in 3X. I told them to refill with synthetic. They said they do not do that! 3rd gear syncro shifting issues and even 4th gear after the rebuild. The last time I took it in I brought 1 Gallon of Amsoil 5W-30 Synthetic Syncroshift transmission oil. Worked great right off the get-go! Now as far as the "smoke and mirrors" provided by that transmission shop, thats another story. BTW, If you are in or near the Denver Metro area? Don't use Advanced Transmission!
GregH

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ.../manual-synchromesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/

PS, If you do the oil change, yourself? Catch the old oil in a clean container. Inspect the old oil for chips, etc. If there are indications of metal in that old oil, the issue will not be solved by an oil change!

 

[GCroyle]

I do not have torsional dampers, I know that. My flywheel is solid.

The solid F/W was assumed and it does not have a torsion damper, but a clutch disc that has a series of coil springs around the splined hub IS a torsion damper disc. The OE Sachs 13" version had some very small predamper springs built onto it in addition to the main damper springs, they are visible from the trans side of the disc.

Any series of coil springs in the clutch disc arranged around the splined hub constitutes a torsion damper.

Gary

 

[DMcLeod]

GregH, the Amsoil Manual Synchromesh Trans Fluid is NOT recommended (by Amsoil) for the Getrag. They recommend their other 5w30 oils.

 

[GHarman]

Thats NEWS to me! I've been using it and it seems to do the job!
GregH