Getrag rebuild dollars and sense?

[jclark5810]

Well the old Getrag has been screaming a lot louder than normal lately. I can't help but feel like the end is near. How much are we talking to have my unit rebuilt? Does it make sense to just rebuild it instead of doing the swap since i won't be towing or making big power? It seems to me it would be more economical to just rebuild what i've go? Thanks for your help fellas

 

[NIsaacs]

The cost will depend on what is wrong with it and shop labor rate. For me a rebuild would be in order, however I do all my own work. If you have a shop do the conversion, that will be expensive also. The donor transmission might be used up also.



For me, the Getrag is a good transmission, keep the oil clean and keep it full. I don't over fill as some recommend, but that is just me. I would just rebuild it, they work fine.



Nick

 

[RSchwarzli]

Chances are, your cheapest is a rebuild. I am still running the getrag in my 90 (although starting to show signs) and I do run power and tow. In my case, I would recommend no more Getrag. In yours, with no abuse it could likely do another 100,000+ for you and the rebuild may still be cheaper than a used 4500 if the damage is not too bad.



If you add in the conversion parts cost, rebuild is still better.

 

[JLEONARD]

You probably want to pull it for a rebuild sooner rather than later when it goes boom.

If it gets to the point where the bearing seizes and the race spins in the case, kiss it goodbye.

 

[Mikey-KE7LBB]

I rebuilt my own several years ago after reading a few posts by mysteryman.

I took the plunge and bought a kit, a press, transmission jack, and several miscellaneous tools for a tiny fraction of the cost for someone else to do it for me. The rebuild went pretty well and the only extra item I had to replace was the input shaft.

It's pretty straight forward once you can talk yourself into trying it.

 

[jclark5810]

Thank you for all the help guys. I'm leaning towards a rebuild, and i agree with you JLEONARD that it's best to get on it now rather than later. Now i just have to find a re builder in my area. I would love to do the rebuild myself, and if i had the room I would. I'm going to change the fluid today and see if that changes any of the noise. Is 145k miles normal for the transmission to start to go?

 

[GHarman]

Dump the fluid into a clean container. Inspect for metallic particles or chunks! Might be an indicator of things to come? GregH

 

[jclark5810]

Good idea GregH. I think i'll grab a clear bucket or something of the like and take a good look at the fluid. I've been trying to locate a good rebuilder around here but no luck.

 

[jclark5810]

Well i changed the fluid out, honestly didn't look much different. I'm going to give the fluid a more thorough inspection tomorrow. With new fluid the truck still had a loud whine when shifting and when hitting around 2k. Similar to that of a gear drive. Either way it's parked now and i'm looking at a reman unit on eBay, the one for $1200ish. My local diesel shop said the turnaround on mine would be about 2-3 weeks for them to pull it, send it out for rebuild, then get it back and put it in. I honestly don't have that kind of time and would rather go the alternate route. Do a new clutch and rear main seal at the same time and be done with it. Any thoughts?

 

[DVolk]

Are you shure the whine is not comeing from the t-case ???, also that whine could be comeing from your rear axek as well i had that happen to me as well , check your rear diff lube

 

[NIsaacs]

Like Donovan said, make sure it is in fact the transmission making the noise since the oil seemed normal. A gear noise can be hard to find if it is not obvious. Drive train noise can travel up the drive shaft and seem to come from the floor area.



Nick

 

[RSchwarzli]

Yes, if it were me, I would be doing a clutch if I was in there especially if i was having a shop do my work. Not worth pating someone in a year from now to pull it all put again.

Rear main would depend on I I saw any signs of it failing. I did mine for the hell of it as I was in there, but that's just me.

Btw, if you speak with a transmission shop, you will find it cheaper and quicker as there is fewer people in line. If the diesel shop is pullin it and sending it out, why not go to the place they are sending it to and skip the middle man?

 

[JLEONARD]

why not go to the place they are sending it to and skip the middle man?/HTML]



You have to look at it both ways. I know when my son pulls a transmission at his shop and sends it to the transmission shop, the transmission shop works on my son's customer's transmission right then. He sends them a lot of business and they move his work to the top of their list. 

Just saying there are advantages each way.

 

[jclark5810]

Hi guys, thanks for all the advice. I can't positively rule out transfer case, i will be draining that and inspecting this evening. All the u-joints were just replaced and the drive shafts re balanced. The front and rear diffs were just replaced as well when i swapped to 4. 10's. When the truck is sitting at idle and i crawl underneath it i can hear a churning/growling coming from the transmission. Aside from the whine/gear noise, when i'm driving and i very gently apply a little pressure to the stick i can feel a bad vibration. It's also now difficult to get into reverse and while sitting still with the engine off it won't cycle through the gears either, not sure if that matters.



The diesel shop by me is constantly busy so i can see a few days lost here and there just from other things getting in the way. Normally that wouldn't be an issue but since i'm down to one vehicle I'd like to get the truck back as soon as possible. That's why i thought maybe getting a complete unit all ready to go might be a better option. I'm going to call around a few places today and see what i can learn. Aside from just draining and refilling the transfer case, is there any other diagnostics i can do on it? I will definitely do a clutch and rear main if the trans has to come out. I leave "evidence" of needing a new seal everywhere i park Thank you all very much for the help!

 

[GHarman]

I had a high pitched whine in the '93 Getrag-360. It went away after the input shaft and pocket bearing were replaced. The race and pocket bearing did not have a round spot to be seen. Lots of pitting in the race. I'll post a picture of the old parts, if you like? GregH

 

[GHarman]

Heres a picture of the input shaft and pocket bearing. GregH

 

[GHarman]

PS, The 3rd Gear syncro was severely worn, also. Could not down shift from 4th to 3rd. GregH

 

[jclark5810]

Wow thank you fro the pictures i really appreciate it! I don't know what the deal is with it, i changed the t-case fluid, started it up and it still makes the noise at idle so i'm pretty sure i can rule out the diffs. As soon as i push the clutch in, everything goes silent. Let the clutch out and it growls again. Take it down the street same thing, it whines while increasing the rpm's and a soon as i push the clutch in its quiet again. I'm going to try and make a video of it. Am i dealing with a clutch issue here? Throw out/pilot or something of the like?

 

[GHarman]

First off, I am only an amateur when it comes to trannys! . Just to let you know, up front.



It could be many issues. However, In my limited experience and understanding, The throwout bearing could be one issue. I replaced the clutch/throwout bearing with the transmission rebuild.

However, the chosen rebuilder would install only LUC clutches. NOT A GOOD CHOICE! Never again!

I my recent experience, with a high pitched whine from the drivetrain and a slow deterioration in shifting.

The transmission input shaft and output shaft turn at different RPM's in all gears except 4th. The conclusion is that the pocket bearing may be one culprit. Similar to the above picture? Are you having any notchy down shifting? Is the whine limited when in 4th gear?

What I understand is that the pocket bearing only picks up lube in the lower gears. No lube runs up the gears in 4th or 5th gear. Hence the overfill recommendation? Synthetic lube? Anyway, Hope this line of thinking is helpful? GregH

 

[jclark5810]

Well the truck is at Mike's Transmissions in Livermore Ca, not sure if any of our California members have had any work done there. He's in the process of tearing it down now. Said the noise was most likely pocket bearing. We'll see what the extent of the damage is, I'm happy i didn't risk driving it any more than i had too so it shouldn't be too bad. I'll post any updates. Thanks again GregH and everybody for the help!