Getting Ball Joints, What else should I replace?

[AndyMan]

I had my truck on a nice 4 post lift with the smaller inner scissor lifts Saturday. We were able to support and isolate the front axle for disassembly. I was ready to tear the front end down completely and replace whatever I needed. Right off the bat, we noticed that I had FOUR bad ball joints. I called every parts house in town and two dealers. No ball joints to be found. . A tdr member/friend suggested that I order the new ones from Quad4x4.com. I will do that, but am also wondering what else I should replace while I'm at it?

Another member/friend suggested that I should go ahead with wheel bearings because of the severe Death Wobble I've had. He said they probably had flat spots. I'm sure he's right. But what else should I look at replacing? U-Joints? What else?

That was a SLICK 4-post rack by the way. I could raise the entire truck up to working height, then use the two center mounted scissor lifts to independantly support the axle and the frame. It was a HUNTER something 'er other. He uses it with a Huter DSP alignment machine. Too bad I couldn't find parts while I had it up in the air.

TIA,
Andy

 

[Jeff_K]

Do the u-joints at the hubs. They are the same as the crappy ones on the rear driveline and wear out fast. Get Spicer SnapTite 803's

 

[jwilliams3]

www.rockauto.com has the front axle joints for around $33 each.

They are also greasable!

 

[AndyMan]

Keep it coming. .

Since you mentioned greasable... QUAD4x4 has u-joints both Hot Forged (greaseable) and Cold Forged (non-greaseable). They claim the cold forged non-greaseable ones last longer. I thought that was strange.

Maybe it's just me.

BTW, rockAuto is a good parts place.

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

Hi Guys,

I just replaced every part on the front of my truck. It has 70K miles and a bit of abuse has been dished out. Let me start by saying that the ball joints on the truck from the dealer were junk. I had over 1 inch of play on both upper ball joints. I was a little nervous when I saw that. The hubs were fine, but the half shafts(axles) were toast. Check the U Joints for any signs of rust coming from the grease seals. If it is appearant, replace the complete axle shaft. The ball joints will only hold up if they are installed with a press. It is much safer to just replace the whole deal. Next were the tie rod ends. TOAST! over 1/4 of an inch of play each. Replaced them too. Next was the steering box. I just tightened it up on the top with the set screw. Now the truck only needs the new Billet Control Arms from you know who and it will be all new. I have two bent control arms from Rocks lodging themselves in between the tire and control arm.

You can see for yourselves the carnage I have created in a truck that has well over 50K invested in it. Not a bright move by any means but extremely important to abuse the stuff I sell to see if it will hold up. I have broken more than one part in testing. That only makes it stronger when it is re-designed. I guess that is just the price to pay when you are the King of destruction. Andy, use your best judgement when picking out your new parts. I went with all factory parts. They were very expensive but are designed to fit and fail in a uniform way. I can attest to the strength of the ball joints. Two days before I changed the front end, big red was 3 feet in the air. No broken ball joints.



Greg DRC

 

[AndyMan]

Interesting.

Thanks guys for the input.

Now it's time to get to work...

 

[Blakers]

If you can wait a little bit, Moog should have greasable ball joints out pretty soon. I'm waiting for them for mine.



Blake